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I finally did find 39mm dia. 1045 TG&P bar, but I have to be a buisness or shop to order it from them.
I have learned the more carbon the steel has the harder it is to weld and machine. Not the best for these two, but is stronger than 1018, so is it usable for the task ???
I will check with one locally and see if they will order it for me.
I really thought the clamp would spread open more, but it just does not give that way, but Rex you are right, that small distance that 1 1/2" lacks is just enough so that true solid clamping force does not occur.
Oh, crap, my daughter's boyfriends shop should beable to do it for me, duh!
but I do not want to purchase it if it is not suitable for being front down tubes. Help.
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Andy....that material sounds pretty good to me. Stronger than 1018 cr and the ground finish should make it straighter than 1018 ....One thing about the 1/4 wall dom I discovered was not to my liking, was that it varied in straightness about .010/ ft., but the tube was straight overall, in other words it snaked .01 on this 12 in then snaked back in the next 12 in. the whole length. Not a problem you might say! well my trees were about 8/9 in apart. when i went to clamp the tubes, the ends were not inline down at the rocker pivots. WTH. that's when the discovery was made!....I ended up having to rotate both tubes just right to get the ends to line up..:xzqxz: then I welded in the slugs that were machined to fit the rockers.
Just another situation where things should have "gone right" but didn't.
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Well does the daughter's boyfriend's shop have machine and fab tools?
If so it looks like more daughter time is in order....lol
That metal would be fine.
Of course you could use the larger inch stuff and turn the ends to fit in the clamps.
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I don't know if you're building your own front end because you want to which is fine. But tcbros.com has a really nice springer seems to be pretty good quality for 6 bills you might want to check it out. They have a video of how its made.
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2 Attachment(s)
[QUOTE=grandpanystrom61;600119]Good morning to everyone, well I have spent some time trying to get the drawing program to work for me. I have what was required to run it, but I think I lost patience with age, or like other programs a short course in how to use them is needed. Not giving up, just not making head way as fast as I wanted.Okay, tire size, wow, been going back and forth on what I should do, what is best for the trike.I remember on this 3speed bicycle I had, chopper it was called and had a little front wheel with lots of trail I am sure. It was great until high speeds down the step hill, front end would wobble uncontrollably. Usually a spill on the pavement followed.So does the design of the drop pivot with a tighter trail eliminate this with a small tire ? or does it still happen?Finding a 18 x 2.5" Harley rim has not been easy on ebay. 19" rim size seems what stock was on a lot of them, but can not go past 12 1/2" axle height. Okay seems house is up, need to take care of things.[/QUOTE]
even without a cad or drawing program if you can draw what you want full size it can be traced
i flame cut these from a full size template then machined the holes
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Thanks sidecarbill, the address did not work and so I could not check out the set of forks.I am rebuilding the front end because it was wrong and the set of springers on the trike are bent, worn, and showing signs of fatigue stress. This just gave me the chance to correct what was wrong and build a set of forks for the trike, most all home built trikes require custom forks for the trike. Probably because of the fact that most have rake's past 45 degrees.I do not have all that is needed to make them, so I will get help from local shops I hope, or pay the big boys in the city, but I will get it done.Working on the rocker pattern and template, than I get to see if it all works on the mock up.Again a huge "Thank You" for everyone's help on this.
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[QUOTE=DeathBySnuSnu;603322]Lathe turn the od. Or bore the clamps.
Which is easy for me to say.......
If you were next door I could give you a hand every once in a while.[/QUOTE]
:xzqxz:, now to many choices of how to get it done. There is room to bore the clamps out to 1 9/16" with out issue and is looking like the way I may go. Getting the 39mm stock seems to be more trouble and expensive than it needs to be, but one more to check out before giving up on 39mm stock.
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I do need help deciding what to purchase for the down tubes.
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[TD="class: nobottompadding, bgcolor: transparent"][h=5][B][URL="https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=22053&step=4&showunits=inches&id=1616&top_cat=1"]1045 - Steel Round Bar (METRIC) TGP- 1045 ROUND BAR (METRIC SIZE) 40MM OD 36" LONG[/URL][/B][/h][h=6]PID: 22053[/h]
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[TD="bgcolor: transparent"] $0.00 [/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: transparent"] $142.83 [/TD]
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[TD="bgcolor: transparent, align: right"] [URL="https://www.onlinemetals.com/act_basket.cfm?id=9476043&action=delete"][B]x[/B][/URL] $285.66 [/TD]
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[TD="class: nobottompadding, bgcolor: transparent"] [h=5][B][URL="https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=22262&step=4&showunits=inches&id=1617&top_cat=1"]304/304L Round Bar - METRIC- T-304 STAINLESS ROUND BAR (METRIC SIZE) 40MM OD 36"[/URL][/B][/h][h=6]PID: 22262[/h]
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[TD="bgcolor: transparent"] $0.00 [/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: transparent"] $365.15 [/TD]
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[TD="bgcolor: transparent, align: right"] [URL="https://www.onlinemetals.com/act_basket.cfm?id=9476351&action=delete"][B]x[/B][/URL] $730.30 [/TD]
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[TR="class: nobottomborder, bgcolor: transparent"]
[TD="class: nobottompadding, bgcolor: transparent"] [h=5][B][URL="https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=96&step=4&showunits=inches&id=6&top_cat=1"]Stainless T-304/304L Cold Finish Round 1.625" Cut to: 36" [/URL][/B][/h][h=6]PID: 96[/h]Okay, if I use the 40mm bar I figured I would go with recommendation of machinist, do the bore the clamps or turn rod to 39mm dia.
Now not happy with the price on 40mm 304 bar, so think I pass on the middle one, mainly because the last one is nicely priced and yes it would cost more to turn it to 39mm from the 1 5/8" it is.
So do you have to heat treat the 304 for it's strength ? I read where 1045 will not get it's true strength unless it is heat treated, do all forks get built with out this heat treatment ?, or just the best built is heat treated for max strength.
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[TD="bgcolor: transparent"] $103.92 [/TD]
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[TD="bgcolor: transparent, align: right"] [URL="https://www.onlinemetals.com/act_basket.cfm?id=9476481&action=delete"][B]x[/B][/URL] $207.84
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First......it does NOT have to be solid bar.
The most common thing is 1-5/8 x .250 DOM tube with a plug welded button on top and a plug welded eye at the bottom.
DOM is not perfectly straight, but is one of the straightest tubings.
I used solid bacause I wanted Stainless. The heat of machining and welding easily blows stainless. I tryed and could not keep ss tube straight enough. That is why I went solid. Was NOT for the strength.
The 300 series ss is not for heat treating. It is roughly the same load capability as the 1018/1045 plain is. As in it will deflect about the same per pound load. Ss has more memory though, so it will "spring back" much more than the plain carbon steel.
The tgp would be the straightest of the choices and the easiest to weld. Unless you have a welder well experienced with ss you may want to stay carbon.
So.. .all your listed choices and dom would make a good fork ...the end difference is what you can work with and what you want it to look like.
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[QUOTE=grandpanystrom61;604034]Thanks sidecarbill, the address did not work and so I could not check out the set of forks.I am rebuilding the front end because it was wrong and the set of springers on the trike are bent, worn, and showing signs of fatigue stress. This just gave me the chance to correct what was wrong and build a set of forks for the trike, most all home built trikes require custom forks for the trike. Probably because of the fact that most have rake's past 45 degrees.I do not have all that is needed to make them, so I will get help from local shops I hope, or pay the big boys in the city, but I will get it done.Working on the rocker pattern and template, than I get to see if it all works on the mock up.Again a huge "Thank You" for everyone's help on this.[/QUOTE]
Thats unfortunate I just tried and it worked for me:Shrug:. You could do a youtube search for tcbros.com and it will come up. The interesting thing about that springer is the fork legs are one piece forgings, gotta heavy duty look to them.
And your trike maybe over 45 degrees but mines homemade, and it doesn't come close to that. When your building your own you get to decide what you want. A rake over 45 degrees certainly is laying the forks down. Why do you have to have such an extreme angle? Are you going for the long chopper look? Alright I'm sorry to many questions, just thinking financially it would be better to buy something thats allready made.