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We had some severe rain the past couple night.
Right now it is cloudy and almost drizzling. Hot hot and muggy.
I gotta patch up a mower and cut my grass this weekend. Already almost knee high in spots.
I think CB performance has stock type springs.
The bearings are probably regular industrial sizes. Look for numbers on the edges. Something like 6208 2rs....not saying that is the number....just an example. Then an industrial supply or bearing specialty store will have them for a lot less than the car parts store.
Yeah....mine is purdy far out there. Very little functions as vw intended anymore.
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[QUOTE=grandpanystrom61;562860]Looking it over I see what I had looked up, kinda, here is the picture.
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There is nothing on the back side of the fan shroud.
and if I remember correctly, that case vent box is suppose to be cleaned every so often, and my mind thinks there is some type of filter material used inside it.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]55688[/ATTACH]
Taken from right side of engine, and the first pic was taken from the left side (3 and 4) cylinders.
I have no idea if it has ran all this time with out a oil cooler, I highly doubt it because they did take a few trips on it, so I have heard, so I will have to go with the fact that the old cooler was removed because of leaks, or I pray that was the case.
Now I got to get a new one. From what I read I would not benefit a lot with a external mounted cooler, but would do better with a full flow external oil filter set up with just the stock oil cooler.
If this is a aftermarket fan shroud, did the copy the venting and flanges of the original one ? I just read how well the Germans design the fan shroud to cool the engine, and why the internal cooler in the shroud caused the #3 cylinder to run hotter than others, lack of air flow to cool it, so I have learned a lot today.
We can do so much to look cool, think we are doing the engine better, and the reality is it all just cost money and really does nothing, sometimes create problems rather than fix them....[/QUOTE]
Good day everyone, just trying to get this back together. One thing just kept leading to another, but it is done to this point.
Moved breather box and rerouted venting hoses, much cleaner looking, this opened up the space in front of the fan shroud input air flow, was able to mount bracket nicely and center the oil cooler with it a few inch's away from the fans opening so air flow is not totally blocked by the cooler.
Now this lead to the fuel lines being rerouted, because of cooler mounting, and I noticed a dual port fuel regulator... is this something that is suppose to be on a dual carb engine ????
The current dial single port fuel regulator is new, at least when I had the carbs rebuilt a few years back, remember just minimal run time in the drive way on things since I have owned the trike.
Okay just want to get what is suppose to be here so all works well. So a fuel auto shut off for the electric fuel pump is needed, but if one looks at the above pics the can see how all was squeezed in front of the fan shroud area, and if I have to correct the fuel lines, I believe for the best performance that the fuel lines should be the same length from the T after the fuel regulator............here is were I wondered about the dual port fuel regulator.
Yes all ran before, fine as far as I know, so is there a real need to change the fuel regulator ? I was just looking at how it is set up and wondered how it kept a even pressure to both carb.'s, but here is where I realized that the fuel lines should be equal distances from the T block to the carb.'s so that it may have a better chance at having a equal PSI in the fuel lines.
Over thinking it ???????
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[QUOTE=grandpanystrom61;566979]Yes all ran before, fine as far as I know, so is there a real need to change the fuel regulator ? I was just looking at how it is set up and wondered how it kept a even pressure to both carb.'s, but here is where I realized that the fuel lines should be equal distances from the T block to the carb.'s so that it may have a better chance at having a equal PSI in the fuel lines.
Over thinking it ???????[/QUOTE]
I am not sure about VW's, but, most carbs have floats and the inlet pressure just fills the bowls, then the floats shut the fuel down. Not sure if a slight difference in pressure would be a huge deal. I'm sure one of the VW guys will chime in.
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All these small carbs.....even the dual throated weber's are small.....they all have small floats. They will not take but a couple psi before over riding.
So yes you must have correct pressure. There are some low pressure pumps....some internal regulated pumps.....some regulators.
Any combination that gets you to pressure should be ok.
That little round dial type thing is not a true regulator.....more of an adjustable orifice or restrictor. I have used one before and was not pleased.
What is the other one?
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I think I may have gotten lost on the parts website, to many buttons and things, LOL
I did not like them as they were rated at a higher PSI, 3 to 9 and 5 to something, and now I think they may have been for EFI system, **** I do not know, or remember what site, maybe CB performance or carid.
This current fuel pump is new basically, just replaced what was on the trike, and they said I would need a new regulator and to set it to 1.5 psi. Like I said it runs and I noticed no issue, but running only in drive way right now.
Those low pressure self regulating fuel pumps are expensive, do they also need a auto shut off relay ?
Or just get what I have mounted secure and centered, get on the road and run it and see what it does or does not do, than go from there......... or is getting this corrected ( better regulator-even if means new fuel pump or self regulated pump.. idea is it better to eliminate the issue that will arise now, or later when it happens.
Okay the fuel pump I have is a Facet that is 12volt, nothing about what psi range it works at, but the box has a sticker on it that says "Legal in California only for racing vehicles, not permitted on highways" so I think it maybe to much and with that dial regulator, maybe not the best. Change it or pressure test line before carb to see what is really there ?
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The little faucet "clicker" pump is a favorite for small engines. 3 to 4 psi usually.
If what you have seems to work then just check the psi at carbs. Equal length is not critical but equal psi is.
I would on/off the pump with the ignition switch.
If the tank is higher than carbs I would have a shut off valve....preferably an electric that operates with the pump.
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Getting back on track
I did not mean to throw a curve ball, but as I was having to reroute the fuel lines I just thought about what I had read, see if I could do any more justice to the fuel system.
Okay for now, I do have the tank highest point, not ideal, but it works for now. Two feet or so after the line leaves the tank is a filter, changeable one, and than the on/off manual flow cut off valve. I have not ordered the electric shut off relay for the fuel pump, not yet, still trying to make sure I get what I need. I do think I will upgrade the fuel regulator to a better functioning one.
Excuse me... I did have to slip out of state yesterday, we had to go help out a friend, just a few hours drive, all is well.
I have to go back to the bearing shop, just do not understand how I was given the wrong bearings. I took the old ones with me so I could make sure I would get the right bearings. I hope to get that resolved today, maybe get them reset into the trailing arm and get moving forward again.
Again thank you everyone for your help. I really appreciate the ability to chat with others and get their feedback and idea's.
Have a great day.
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I will sketch out some explanations and descriptions about fuel pumps and put it over in tech tech tech.
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I did get things ordered that was needed. Kind funny not all was in one place, but it is done.
Things will come to me a few days apart, but it gives me time to put the new parts on as they come. It is funny that the bearings I need first, well they will be here first.
I really want to get rid of that stinger exhaust system, had to remove it all just so I could get in and clean up that fuel pump mounting area, old nasty gasket and goop, but all done and back together.
I can spend tomorrow looking for a fuel pressure gauge so I can test the system, I just want to make sure I am getting the correct pressure to the carb's.
Crappy weather for me for a few days, so I am not missing out on any good riding weather, not yet at least, LOL
Everyone have a good evening.
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A 4 into 1 and a stinger are the most performing way to go.
Sometimes those upright buggy stingers look right and sometimes not.
I personally do not like it on yours at all.
How loud do you want it? I like being loud and obnoxious......lol
The buggy dual cannons are a good looker for a trike. But they are paired wrong.....not a header at all....but are a free flowing exhaust.
Maybe even consider a side winder? If you want less noise.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]56208[/ATTACH]
Or a tri mil?
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