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Mounting a cooler over the fan intake might not be ideal.....but with an open engine and light load you should be fine.
I would be more worried about have the correct springs on the oil control than I would be be worried about the cooler over intake.
Pull the fan housing off and clean out the mouse nest, dirt dobbers, wasp nest.
Change the oil.
Adjust the valves.
Put a simple cooler on it.
Clean out the carbs.
Clean the points.
Change the condenser.
Change the spark plugs.
Crank it up.
Monitor the oil pressure.
If it has decent pressure then don't worry about what pump is in it.
Drive it.
Drive it some more.
Check compression psi to see if it has evened out.
If then you have oil pressure and the compression is not crazy uneven and the head temp and oil temp stay reasonable. Run the fool out of it.
You have a modified engine you should be happy with the power. One day when it starts getting weak...low psi on 3....low oil pressure...ect.
Then start playing with the insides and put a better fan housing and oil cooler set up on it.
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funny
I had just wrote down my plan of attack so I could be back on the road, and yes I will wait on new tires until I feel how these ride, they have flat spots in them from sitting to long at the neighbors house.
After getting the bushings and bearings replaced, torsion set proper, and all angles check out, than I finish out the above list.
Now I had replaced the OO9 distributor with the SVDA Ignitor ( Pentronix Flame Thrower ), was told with the Kardon carb's that this would help all run more smoother and even.
I did that 2 years ago I guess, any how all is set like in the installation video, after I get the cooler done and oil back in the engine I can set the timing, from what I have viewed and read I should be looking at 30 degrees @ 3000rpm's with the vacuum line disconnected.
A full day a head of me, so better get back to it, enjoy your day everyone.
Oh a question, I cleaned out the breather box, have 4 connections for hoses, one goes to left carb breather, a hose from each valve cover, and one hose from the oil fill tube vent,,,, but NO breather hose to the right carburetor breather base.
Why just the left side, or do I eliminate the left side and do not run hoses from the breather box to the carb breather base?? If it is a must that the both carb's should have hoses from the breather box to their breather, than could I put a T fitting in the hose from the oil filler tube and connect the right carb breather to it...... only have room on the breather box for 4 hose connectors......any thoughts would be helpful to me.
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Yep get the backend together and safe.
Tires....
Yes you want new tires for safety sake, but put it after you know the engine will not need major work.
Yep...is good to replace that 009. That is a long complex story. That distributor was originally for an industrial engine that ran full throttle 3750 rpm all the time. It has a straight timing advance and did not need any dynamic variables. A simple unit and it became popular with the drag racers. They are only worried about wide open and seldom have much vacuum to work with.
A street engine does not run wot all the time. The vacuum can give it some dynamic control. Timing has some load sensing adjustment happening. That makes things so much more drivable and pleasing.
Pertronics makes some good stuff. If someone had experience with that with carbs like yours then it is an excellent place to start. With a modified engine it will need non-stock timing dynamic control.
Yes on 30 degree total no vacuum. If it is higher compression and tight deck maybe a little less. If it is lower compression and loose deck more timing.
Vents... none of that is stock stuff you have there. A lot of folks do vent the valve covers. It seems to make sense as a normal upright engine is vented at the valve covers. But.....the valve covers are not the top of the boxer engine....so it is not ideal. So yes valve covers, oil filler, and it you have it the fuel pump block off plate. I do not like putting the oil vapor back into the carbs....so nothing to the air filters. Free air. Also on that vent can you want a low fitting that will drain back into the engine.
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getting lost
Okay, I did understand the part about NO vent to carb breathers, only had the left, so a quick fix.
Are you suggesting buying new valve covers and oil extension tube so that they are no longer vented to the breather box,
or are you saying valve covers and extension tube vented to breather box ?
And yes there is the cover plate mounted where the fuel pump would go, are you saying there is a adapter plate one can buy that allows this to be a place for a vent hose ?
I know if I have valve covers with no vent hoses, well I will not see that white oil/water mock again. And seeing it really made me wonder about that vent to the carb., so glad that is going away.
I also have this new breather box that only has 3 hose ports on it, guess why I was asking, plus I see it, than I don't, made me wonder what is better, oh yeah no smog test here in my area, so no worries in that area.
have a good evening everyone.
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There is a huge amount of debate about the venting. Some several research done on it with all kinds of different conclusions. Even one fully documented test with supporting video that the 3-4 valve cover completely fills with oil. I have tried to reproduce that test and have never gotten that result.
So I am going to say that there can be a large amount of variables that effect how the venting can work.
I will give you my opinion on it all.
1) there should be near zero pressure to vent. The flat design with 180 degree counterparts does not displace air in and out of the block. The air does move around a lot but volume stays the same. The only thing in there to vent to the outside world is ring blow by/leakage. All rings leak a very small amount.
2) increased bore engines will leak more at the rings because there is more circumference to seal.
3) There is the potential for 3-4 valve cover to fill with oil. So do not vent that cover.
4) Mount the vent box as high as reasonably possible.
5) Put 1-2 valve cover and oil filler into the box.
6) Put a hose on the bottom of box as a drain back and hook to a fuel pump cover plate.
7) Free air vent the other side (opposite of hoses) of the box filter sponge/element.
Others will dissagree....is a hard subject.
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I had read about that, the left side filling full up with oil, I took it as it was because of no vent causing the oil to back up inside the valve cover. I will read over it again.
It is not that high, would say even with carb. height, so new longer mounting bracket or find a new location for it.
These box's are not air tight, both have a raised tap keeping the lid up, this allows a opening around the lid so that air can go in and out as needed
Now what side of valve cover had the most condensation, were clear water drained out when I popped it open, the LEFT side was the worst, so no venting of left valve cover, yet we vent the right side, is this to relief any back pressure so that oil drains and flows as designed ?
Note: I just inspected the fuel pump cover plate, it has a center port on the plate all threaded, all I have to do is remove it, drill thru the plate so the port is open, install a barbed nipple and that is done.
Breather box is currently mounted off the trans mount bolts on brackets, I looked and the highest point and available is on the rear of the body above the fan shroud. The bolts from the mounting of the temp tank are just perfect to attach brackets from so the breather box hangs up inside above everything, to high ??
This all lines up with a direct drop down to the fuel pump plate port, and than the other to vent hoses from the right side will route just fine to the box.
Now, I did not really have the room before, so I had mounted a bracket for the cooler off to the left side using the body's rear cross brace to hang it from. It is forward of the wheel area under the body.
Any how, if the breather box is moved, than I have the area to move the cooler to a more favorable spot, maybe as there is other stuff I have to work around, and of course truly see if it fits, but first need to move the breather box out of the way. I am sure the cooler will fit, just a matter of making the bracket so the cooler will sit were I need it to be.
This will look much cleaner and organized, and the cooler will be in front of the fan area so that air flow thru the cooler at idle will be present, and that is one purpose of the oil cooler, to help cool down the oil at idle when it is usually the hottest and some engines stall out from it, normally both relief valves open at this point so oil flows thru the cooler and sump until high pressure is reduced so springs close valves, concept is to keep the engine cool at idle so it does not over heat sitting in traffic or at a stop sign. Am I getting this right....
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There is very little oil pumped into the valve cover. A tiny timed pulse for the rocker shaft is all.
The article claimed rotational slinging (windage) from the crank pushed oil up the push rod tubes.
I don't believe it because I could not force it to happen. What I believe is that the oil pressure bypass.....as where the excess pressure is ejectected from the oil control piston and spring.....is directly at the opening of a push rod tube......if you use too large of an oil pump and it bypassed some huge amount.....I can see that pushing oil up the tubes.
I moved all that somewhere else in my block then redirected larger and full time oil up the push rods. Then squirters on the rockers and a baffle in the block. So now lots of oil into the covers and back down the tubes.
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Forgot to say...
Most of the high heat time is at highway cruise.
Sustained high rpm is what really heats up the oil.
Full throttle hard mountain uphill being the worst case scenario.
One thing to watch for when up gearing the trans....ie...5 speed...freeway flyer....is that you are attempting to lower your rpm at highway speeds.
But....you are also lowering the fan speed and reducing the cooling. And again you are light loaded open engine ect ect.....you will probably never notice anything like this. But if it was in a bus you would so the potential is there. You have the gauges so you can learn what it likes.
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Good morning to everyone, a sunny day spring day it is, hope all have one of these today.
That is a lot of work, I mean seeing the need for it, figuring out how to achieve it, than doing the work so it happens.
I do see what you are talking about with the control valve, I can see that happening, but I also see that stock pressure springs should be used, some say until the oil system is upgraded to a full flow system with larger oil cooler, than the rear spring, by #4, should be upgraded a bit to help keep a working oil pressure with in the upgraded engine.
That is interesting that you did that Rex, with all the other upgrades I can see the need for it, I bet you are proud of your skills and Trike.
I need to order my bearings today, I just need to find the site that has all that I need, like stock pressure relief valve springs, and a knowledgeable person who will know what bearings I need from the pic's I have so I get the correct ones.
I will get it done, just need to spend the time searching it out a bit more first before ordering stuff.
Enjoy the day, looks so nice outside.