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again, thank you
I am so thankful for you links and tips Rex, I just ordered some bushings for the IRS rebuild for now.
Spent the morning reading and learning more. Than I had went over to samba to look up some articles about the pressure relief valve.
I got more of an education than I expected, read a lot of questions and answers, took piecing together this and that to figure out what might be going on with my engine.
First off, when I decided to put the temp. sensor in place of the plug to the pressure relief valve, well it dropped out and I could not tell how it went back in, flat side first with the cup side facing the spring is what I gathered as the proper way it sits. The control valve is same, flat side first with the cup side facing the spring.
The diagrams I looked over were not 100% the engine and oil route, so a question ?
Does the control valve actually control the flow of oil through the stock cooler that is mounted in the fan shroud, or is the oil always flowing through the cooler ?
Now if I have the, lost the name, adapter plate that covers the original cooler mount, for the external cooler, the bottom line out of the fan shroud is the supply line of oil ??
and than the top port would be the return line from the external cooler ?
I also had water drain out of the valve covers when I had checked my valve clearances the other day, but no sign of water in the oil I drained out of the engine. And the white oil/water film was present, really got me wondering how water got in.
My mind told me condensation, water from the air. Still not sure where it came from, but today I read about how if the pressure relief valve spring is to strong, keeping the valve closed, than a back up of condensation can occur and as the engine and oil heats up this turns to steam and increased pressure can cause the valve to open. This makes me think than all that crude goes into the oil pan.
regardless, I checked more as I read and it is a long chromed spring that takes a lot of strength and pressure against to thread in the plug or sensor, they both are the same length, so as I read I found the chromed spring is aftermarket spring to improve oil pressure, basically stronger than stock so it keeps the pressure relief valve closed to long, and that is not stock operation.
So earlier I took off the hoses and removed the breather box to see what it looked like inside, and of course clean it up, have new hose on the way.
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than I had to look inside the box.
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So the real question is, does this crude come from the valve covers up into the breather box, or does it come from the breather box down into the valve covers ?
Yes the oil fill tube has the vent port and the hose ran from there to the breather box, so is this the path it takes to enter the breather box to accumulate and than it drains down into the valve cover's ??? lost on this one.
I do know I spent some time cleaning the extension tube of the fill tube, the vent port was just full of the white oil/water crude, or is just the foam created by water/oil and heat ?
I did not look for the sensor adapter that would allow it to be inline to the oil cooler, not yet, but if it is not available, I think I can make it, 1/2" dia hole drilled thru the block, tape threads for the nipples, come down center from the side drilling and tapping the sensor port. In line sensor mounting block, or is the control valve plug the better location ?
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I'm not familiar with a VW engine oiling system
What I do know is an internal combustion engine will have some moisture in the oil especially during short runs
The oil does not get hot enough to burn off all the condensation, 1 by product of combustion
The oil mist should rise to a higher point in the engine, it is lighter than the moisture IMO
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Ok then.....Yes the piston and spring does control oil flow to the stock cooler. But it does it in an odd way. It does not turn on and turn off flow like you want to think of it doing. It is more of a pressure bypass.....sorta.... It creates a path of least resistance. The cooler is not turned off but instead there is no flow because there is an easier way open or closed.
All this flow controll is done with oil pressure. If you change the spring or do something that changes the oil pressure you have also altered the functionality of the stock cooler set up.
So always run the stock springs with the stock cooler or a cooler hooked to the stock location.
Now once you do the full flow mods AND no longer use the stock cooler porting at all then you can play with the springs.
But you can full flow and also use the stock cooler at the same time with stock springs (or stock replacements).
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Water poured out?
Condensation does happen. A lot of short runs never getting to full temp plus the humidity does sweat up and make the milky mess all over the place. But seldom enough water to pour out.
I want to think more of rain and an exposed engine to get enough water to pour out.
Excessive oil pressure would make heat. And that would likely evaporate the water. I have overheated oil to the point of making foam that was simular to what you have. But yours does look more like water to me.
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And for what is in and out.
[video=youtube_share;MWynxdKoRRw]https://youtu.be/MWynxdKoRRw[/video]
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Not I see how that much water could have built up inside of the engine, but the damp air filter from rain, the trike sat out covered in the drive way all last year, brought it back into the garage this fall, or told the wife I was selling it.
Short runs, really all I have done with it. Once I got the temp. tank installed I would run it for 15 minutes a day, think I got 4 days in before I realized I lost to much fuel, and that oil stank bad.
Is there a flush idea, or just do a fill with 5/30 w for a run, than drain it out good, and refill with the proper oil, or just put in the better oil and run for 3,000 miles or less before the next oil change ?
Cooler oil I am sure will make a difference, but we will find out once all is as it should be, okay I hope all is good and works out for the best, at least long enough for me to figure a few other things out.
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bearings
Good day to everyone, so I got into the bearings of the right side. Not super worn, but inner bearing is worn more, but that sleeve spacer that the axle slides in, well I can see wear on the axle shaft, kind a grooved by the long sleeve spacer.
I have to clean up some for pic's, but I started the left side last night, out bearing was worn into two pieces, still at it, but hope to compare ware.
Grease was old, some hardened up, and seals a bit rusted in place, no paper gasket was used on the bearing hubs, but know I do know why the left side camber was so off.
I do wonder about the drive axles and CV joints, at least I would think one should clean out old grease and re pack the with new grease ? wrong or right......... or does one just get new drive axles and CV joints together and replace the old that way ?
I do have things to get done today, no I have not ordered any bearings or drive shafts yet, not sure what I got or need yet. So much fun, sure do hope all have a wonderful day today..
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If I remember correctly....the center area of the shaft is undercut a bit. The space sleeve does not fit tight on shaft but sandwiches between the two bearings.
The area of the shaft where the bearing rides need to be a snug fit. Also the bores the bearings fit need to be snug. As in not ovaled out from a spinning race. Closely check that one with the split race.
Chances are that it has been run with the brake drums loose or not fully tight. Them things are supposed to be mega tight... as in special tools kinda tight.
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I do have one last seal to remove, a little more clean up, than really look over the clean parts for the excessive wear.
Do not forget the drums, probably still good, but all should be checked out.
Oh yes, I discovered yesterday I get to get new tires, not that I want to spend the money, but the old tires sat to long, weather cracked, flat spots, and of course one does have excessive wear.
For now, the oil cooler will be mounted up under the fiber glass body, out of the way, but in the way of air flow so it can do it's job and cool the oil.
Now I have decided to change exhaust pipes eventually, I prefer each side to have its own exhaust pipe, leaves center of engine open, which I want, and than one can mount the oil cooler with the fan mounted off the back of the fiberglass body, were the exhaust pipe used to be......... good idea or bad one...... I see it as about the only place for it, remember they are not small units and take up space.
Or would one run the cooler all the way up front, behind the forks, would all the oil line cause issues, yes volume of oil would increase, but can the oil pump handle moving that extra oil that long of a distance ?
Next check, a fun one, need to inspect and check clearance of the oil pump, and hope I can figure out what size it is.
Thank you everyone, I really did need the help, and I am doing it with confidence. This is a good thing.:)
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Good work so far!
My $.02 on the oil cooler: Get a 4 or 6 tube cooler with out a fan and mount it in front of the engine fan opening in the shroud. I ran this configuration on multiple vehicles for many thousands of miles for many years and never had a problem. The VW engine was designed to come out easily as a unit by disconnecting a couple of cables, hoses, and wires, and removing 4 bolts. By mounting the oil cooler on the shroud this functionality is retained. Mounting at the rear on the body might be in a low air flow vacuum area (ever notice how dust collects on the back of an SUV?). Mounting it up front adds additional hose length / oil volume issues and points of failure. An electric fan is one more thing to fail.
Ther are 2 different style oil pumps, one for "flat" cam gears and the other for "dished" cam gears. The only way that i know to determine what you have installed on a modified engine (if you didn't build it or see it built yourself) is to pull the oil pump and look at the face of the cam gear. Here is a Samba post discussion about oil pump removal and some tips: [url]https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/archive/index.php/o-t--t-363360--.html[/url]
There are youtube videos that show the puller and how it works. One of those inexpensive specialty tools that I mentioned in an earlier post.