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2 Attachment(s)
Here is what it looks like at the moment, I will be using the hood from a 1949 Chevy, so there will be a lot of space for air to flow,---
I know it's on the back of the trike...but it covers the engine... so it's a hood . Right? - I'll call it that-
So the hood will come right to the saddle, so behind the passenger spot- there will be a pebble guard, from the hood to the deck. this will allow air to flow pass the heads and the whole engine... I will also have a pebble guard under the engine, so basically making an engine compartment that allows plenty of air flow.
was also considering making a sort of shroud to channel the incoming air stream...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]61285[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]61286[/ATTACH]
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Hey Zar, that's going to be one sweet machine. Thanks for sharing your pictures with us :clapping:
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72 to 74 1700cc
Can not tell if originally in vw or porsche.
Tins
[url]https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2166224[/url]
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Ducted air flow can work. It is harder to do in the back.
Type 4 has a lot more fin area and can shed heat better than type 1.
The big drawback of ducted air is that you have to be moving for it to work. No city traffic, no parades, no stop lights......ect. Then you have trouble pulling a heavy load like a trailer. Normally you are so lightly load that you dont have have a lot of btu to shed. But demand more load means more btu to get rid of.
I would suggest finding the tins for your rear engine set up.
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hydraulics
I have lurked here for a long time but I have not been active in several years. I got an email encouraging me to participate. When I saw this post I just had to comment. Brake and clutch systems are really important to a safe and fun to ride trike.
I looked at your drawing. The pedal lengths you measured are 4.25 pedal to pivot and 2.75 pivot to master cylinder rod. These two values are not additive, it is a ratio; 4.25/2.75 = 1.5:1
Assuming one square inch of master and slave areas to simplify, on a 600 lb. clutch you would have to generate 600/1.5. = 400 lbs foot pressure. It needs to be about 1/10 of that. It looks like you have the same ratio on your brakes? That will require even more pressure. Maximum braking requires something like 1500 lbs. line pressure; 1500/1.5 = 1000 lbs. foot pressure with your current lever ratio. 1500 lbs. of line pressure is not a hard and fast number, you will have to do some calculations to determine actual required line pressure. But it will do for an example. I read once, somewhere many moons ago, that maximum foot pressure during a panic stop should not exceed 120 lbs.
Remember that as the ratio goes up (let's assume 7:1 is what you settle on), travel at the master cylinder rod decreases. that is to say, 7 inches of pedal travel will equal 1 inch of rod travel. Don't forget that the master cylinder diameter and the slave cylinder diameter also form a ratio that has to be calculated to know the line pressure required.
I recommend that you get a copy of Fred Puhn's "Brake Handbook", read it cover to cover. Then get a pressure gauge that screws into the bleeder ports to first, verify current pressure you can generate with your foot and then, to verify that your improved system design matches the math you use to design it.
I just read what I wrote and I am hesitant to post it now. I come across as a know-it-all. That is not my intent. I don't know nearly enough. I am just trying to help you design safe and ergonomic hydraulic systems for your trike. I hope I have been helpful.
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[QUOTE=sdewolfe;606756]I have lurked here for a long time but I have not been active in several years. I got an email encouraging me to participate. When I saw this post I just had to comment. Brake and clutch systems are really important to a safe and fun to ride trike.
I looked at your drawing. The pedal lengths you measured are 4.25 pedal to pivot and 2.75 pivot to master cylinder rod. These two values are not additive, it is a ratio; 4.25/2.75 = 1.5:1
Assuming one square inch of master and slave areas to simplify, on a 600 lb. clutch you would have to generate 600/1.5. = 400 lbs foot pressure. It needs to be about 1/10 of that. It looks like you have the same ratio on your brakes? That will require even more pressure. Maximum braking requires something like 1500 lbs. line pressure; 1500/1.5 = 1000 lbs. foot pressure with your current lever ratio. 1500 lbs. of line pressure is not a hard and fast number, you will have to do some calculations to determine actual required line pressure. But it will do for an example. I read once, somewhere many moons ago, that maximum foot pressure during a panic stop should not exceed 120 lbs.
Remember that as the ratio goes up (let's assume 7:1 is what you settle on), travel at the master cylinder rod decreases. that is to say, 7 inches of pedal travel will equal 1 inch of rod travel. Don't forget that the master cylinder diameter and the slave cylinder diameter also form a ratio that has to be calculated to know the line pressure required.
I recommend that you get a copy of Fred Puhn's "Brake Handbook", read it cover to cover. Then get a pressure gauge that screws into the bleeder ports to first, verify current pressure you can generate with your foot and then, to verify that your improved system design matches the math you use to design it.
I just read what I wrote and I am hesitant to post it now. I come across as a know-it-all. That is not my intent. I don't know nearly enough. I am just trying to help you design safe and ergonomic hydraulic systems for your trike. I hope I have been helpful.[/QUOTE]
Great post ......All information is good.....Don't ever hesitate to share. that is what's great about Trike-Talk .......Nobody shames anyone....ThumbUp
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[QUOTE=sdewolfe;606756] I come across as a know-it-all.[/QUOTE]
I probably have that title locked in solid.........
And yes this is what I was saying a couple pages ago.
7 to 1 is somewhere near the original vw pedals and the pedal only ratio, does not include any of the other mechanical or hydraulic ratios.
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LOL... most of what I have learned came from "know it alls".....keep on talking!!!:D
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I am still learning, keep the new info flowing as more answers to my questions seem to get answered.
It is a good morning and we all will have a good day.:clapping:
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Awesome! thank you all for the info. I am in the process of re-building my pedals, I added a lot of length ( about 14"), hope that it will be sufficient, and I'm much happier with their over all mechanics ... i will [COLOR=#333333]get a copy of Fred Puhn's "Brake Handbook" ( it's in my ebay shopping cart), and if at the end of the day, I need to undo the whole pedal system and place the masters in a different location, I will...
[/COLOR][COLOR=#333333] I can't tell you all how awesome it feels to find other people that like building cool stuff, like trikes, who are kind and generous with the knowledge they have.[/COLOR]:clapping: