Nothing today, as rain is on the way.
I got a nice ride in yesterday & scheduled my 2018 clutch recall repair for 11/14/2018.:D
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Nothing today, as rain is on the way.
I got a nice ride in yesterday & scheduled my 2018 clutch recall repair for 11/14/2018.:D
After watching several videos on "fix my hog" they advised checking clutch and brake control units if newer bars installed . I had high bars installed on 15 fw in march. I checked using inch lb torque wrench and factory specs from manual . Maybe due to stress flex but all torx screws were almost 1/4 to 1/2 turn loose.
[QUOTE=Tucci;621823]After watching several videos on "fix my hog" they advised checking clutch and brake control units if newer bars installed . I had high bars installed on 15 fw in march. I checked using inch lb torque wrench and factory specs from manual . Maybe due to stress flex but all torx screws were almost 1/4 to 1/2 turn loose.[/QUOTE]
Nice. It is on the checklist to verify those every 5,000 miles. I have the OEM bars, but I torqued them to spec after replacing my grips last summer. The 1 positive is there easy to check.
I like the Fix My Hog Guys. They have a video for every maintenance check item for the new M8's
I am installing a front passing lamp bracket and a set of passing lamp buckets with LED's. Ordered the lamp bracket from the HD dealer because I wanted good chrome and I got the passing lamp buckets with LED's on e-bay.When I get it done and wired,I will post a picture.
I'm very interested to see the final installation. Ive been checking some sites but couldn't get a straight answer if the RK light bar will fit without modification of o.e. Also some have said they had to go with a heavier fuse when connected to headlight. I'm not too thrilled about over taxing wires and having them melt. So let us know where you power it. I would like to have a separate on/off switch like i had on my rk
In answer to your question on what light bar,I also had the same problem.Finally,I found part # 68712-94A light bracket that fits from 2009 all the way up to present day on RK's. If you have a HD windshield installed,you need to tilt headlamp upward and remove trim ring to have enough clearance to install light bar.
I found I could move mine with a little force without loosening mounting bolt.If not,the bottom of w/shield will marr up the chrome on the mounting pads of light bar.I put a couple of layers of tape on this area.After you get bracket installed,you can tilt h/lamp back down into proper position and reinstall h/lamp ring.As far as the wiring goes,I have not got that far yet. On my last bike,I installed passing lamps and wired them from the accessory connector under left side panel to a on/off switch up by the bars.
So they stayed on all the time unless I shut them off. This time I think I will wire LED's into low beam h/lamp wire in the h/lamp bucket. I am not worried about LED's pulling too much current.Never had a problem.To be continued.
I put the batwing back on for the winter.
I installed a RK light bar with Led's in the chrome lamp buckets. I wired into low beam yellow wire at h/lamp so LED's will go out when I hit high beam. Installed a set of rear fender bras from Brasfortrikes and instead of using the suggested rivots to secure the snap bases,I used 6-32 pan head machine screw with washers and nuts.Tried the rivot method,but could not get snap base tight enough.I have LED's aimed high so drivers will see me,I hope
Nice job.... and a good looking ride
I just flushed the front brake lines with new DOT 4 fluid.
I will remove the rear wheels & do the rear master cylinder over the winter.
I have to ride as it's 75 today in STL.:Dorag: There's rain moving in tonight!:gah:
UPDATE: I ran a couple errands & got 45 miles in. Is it possible for my FW to run better with each ride?
I did not think the front brakes would feel different, but they liked fresh fluid & the lever feel is very firm.
Not really sure why HD can't make a master cylinder that you can see the fluid level in?