Primary cover bolt with striped head.

Ocbray · Jul 6, 2020

Decided to change fluids today on my new to me 2011 trI glide. Everything is going smooth until it came time to take the primary cover off. Previous owner used red locktite. I got the first one to break free with a lot of muscle. The second one striped the T27 head. The next one broke my T27 bit. Went out and got a new bit and finally got 4 off.

my problem is the one with the stripped head. Any thought on how to get this one out? It’s too late to go to the Harley dealer. The primary fluid is drained.

TIA.

Jack Klarich · Jul 6, 2020

Hi Ed, Welcome to Trike Talk

I assume you are talking about the derby cover?

If you have a dremel tool you can try grinding a screw driver slot in the bolt head. Before trying to remove it try a heat gun or even a hair dryer heat to the area, This will help loosen the loctite.

Drilling the head of the bolt is another option. Once drilled the cover will pop off and you can use a stud remover or vise grip on the bolt. Good luck

nucseal · Jul 6, 2020

Hi Ed

If you have a soldering iron, its is the best way to heat the bolt up and loosen the loctite.

Replace them with these: https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Socket-Head-Cap-Screws-316-Stainless-p/7200-010.htm

Scroll down the page and buy: SS 1/4-20x5/8

You will never have the problem again!!!!

Ocbray · Jul 6, 2020

Yep derby cover. I’ll try the dermal and a BA screwdriver. Worst case is I’ll have to get a new derby cover. As long as I don’t hit the primary case cover.

Thanks.

hardwickbv · Jul 6, 2020

If you are careful you can use the dremel to grind the head off.

put some tape on the cover to help keep from nicking it.

Then buy SS Allen head screws to replace them all as suggested above.

Bob

Jack Klarich · Jul 6, 2020

hardwickbv said:
If you are careful you can use the dremel to grind the head off.

put some tape on the cover to help keep from nicking it.

Then buy SS Allen head screws to replace them all as suggested above.

Bob

Add some antisieze to the threads, it will help in future removal

rhino 2 · Jul 6, 2020

nucseal said:
Hi Ed

If you have a soldering iron, its is the best way to heat the bolt up and loosen the loctite.

Replace them with these: https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Socket-Head-Cap-Screws-316-Stainless-p/7200-010.htm

Scroll down the page and buy: SS 1/4-20x5/8

You will never have the problem again!!!!

For the life of me i never understood why Torx's were ever invented/used, Its like they were made to strip...

...

Ocbray · Jul 6, 2020

Ok time for an update. I’m back on the road. Used a dermal and tried the BA screwdriver. Even with a vice grip on the screwdriver it only knocked off a chunk of the head off. Drill time. Drilled the head and knocked it off. Derby cover came off. Vise grips and a little heat got the stud out.

unfortunately I damaged the cover. Wen to the local dealer and picked one up with screws. I will be replacing them with the socket head screws suggested above.

Thanks for everyone’s help. This is my first Harley and I don’t have much experience doing maintenance on a motorcycle. This forum is a great resource guide.

Thanks again now it’s beer time.

LadyonaMission · Jul 6, 2020

:drinks: I am so happy that you got it done. :drinks:

Jack Klarich · Jul 6, 2020

Good deal, now its time for a ride:clapping:

ultrafxr · Jul 6, 2020

When doing fluid changes I always loosen the screws on the derby cover before draining the fluid. Ditto on the oil filter . . . especially the first service. I've had a few oil filters that were almost welded on from the factory. On one bike I totally twisted the body of the oil filter before it finally broke loose. Don't want to leave myself in a vulnerable position with no fluid and no way to replenish. Just sayin'.

Jack Klarich · Jul 6, 2020

ultrafxr said:
When doing fluid changes I always loosen the screws on the derby cover before draining the fluid. Ditto on the oil filter . . . especially the first service. I've had a few oil filters that were almost welded on from the factory. On one bike I totally twisted the body of the oil filter before it finally broke loose. Don't want to leave myself in a vulnerable position with no fluid and no way to replenish. Just sayin'.

The Golden Rule

Sidecarbill · Jul 6, 2020

rhino 2 said:
For the life of me i never understood why Torx's were ever invented/used, Its like they were made to strip......

There's a few almost fit bits for torx that will cause problems. Keep in mind if your stripping a torx you probably will be rounding out an Allen. For the most part a torx will take more abuse.

nucseal · Jul 6, 2020

At least with the socket head screw, if you strip it out (which will be hard being stainless steel), you have enough to grasp with vice grips. Glad that you got it worked out!

ultrafxr · Jul 6, 2020

Sidecarbill said:
There's a few almost fit bits for torx that will cause problems. Keep in mind if your stripping a torx you probably will be rounding out an Allen. For the most part a torx will take more abuse.

Very easy to confuse T25 and T27. Don't ask me how I know . . . but I was a Harley newbie and I figured it out pretty quickly.

MDO · Jul 6, 2020

Good tip on loosening the screws first. I have found that using blue removable Loctite & torqueing to the correct spec will fix the problem.

Except for the military, I have torqued this trike more than anything ever. So far it's working out.

1 other tip is to use a socket on the 3 drain plugs...they will easily strip using a hexhead socket.

RKplus10 · Jul 6, 2020

ultrafxr said:
When doing fluid changes I always loosen the screws on the derby cover before draining the fluid. Ditto on the oil filter . . . especially the first service. I've had a few oil filters that were almost welded on from the factory. On one bike I totally twisted the body of the oil filter before it finally broke loose. Don't want to leave myself in a vulnerable position with no fluid and no way to replenish. Just sayin'.

I agree, Jerry. I remove the cover first to check the oil level. Then drain it.

Mykneesbehurtin · Jul 6, 2020

I have used a small chisel to give the screw a good tap which will almost always break the torx bolt loose if the head is stripped out,but with red loctite preheating is mandatory.Its beyond me why anyone would use red loctite on engine covers.I dont use blue loctite on engine covers,the twin cams and M8s are pretty smooth running engines.

seniorsgt · Jul 6, 2020

when I worked at a shop years ago aways gave all the fasteners a wack with a hand impact first then finish taking them off with a t handle or speedhandle. Red Loctite still needs some heat.

ctdair · Jul 7, 2020

seniorsgt said:
when I worked at a shop years ago aways gave all the fasteners a wack with a hand impact first then finish taking them off with a t handle or speedhandle. Red Loctite still needs some heat.

First used an impact driver like this in the 70's. Phillips head screws on dirt bike were always stripped out. I was going to suggest the same tool for this application. Friends 2 wheeler had a rear rotor Torx that broke a t-45 using a breaker bar and impact driver loosened it right up.

Primary cover bolt with striped head.

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