1984 goldwing with the shakes!

shaky update

KISS, start by jacking up the front end. Observe and note any looseness and or binding in the fork and wheel bearings. Spin the front tire to check for high and low spots and wobble. With 60K I would be replacing that tire just because. Good Luck and let us know how it goes

found raked trees, $1025.00 ,just cant swing that, SO took the front wheel in for a new tire, ordered stem bearings and fork seals, the stem bearing races were in bad shape!! we will see . thanks to all for the info.
 
shakey trike

found raked trees, $1025.00 ,just cant swing that, SO took the front wheel in for a new tire, ordered stem bearings and fork seals, the stem bearing races were in bad shape!! we will see . thanks to all for the info.

got all the parts today from saber cycle, fast shipping and all the parts were right ! got the stem bearings done, next fork seals. also posted 40 # torque on the bearings we found that way to much. bearings would go bad in no time. did them by feel much better.
 
Needs a set of raked triple trees, but I only have trees for the GL1500s and GL1800s. You might try a Google search for GL1200 rake kit or GL1200 raked triple trees.

Information that I find (on the Internet, of course) says that:

  • GL-1200 I “Interstate” (84-87)
  • GL-1200L “Ltd” (85)
  • and
  • GL-1500 “Goldwing” (88-90)
  • GL-1500I “Interstate” (91-96)

Both use 41mm diameter fork tubes so 1500 raked tree might work. The only thing I dont know about is if the threading of the slugs (if used) is compatible. The neck bearings look to have the same dimensions GL1200 to GL1500. you might have to get "creative" to get all the other pieces mounted to the triple trees.
 
just no rake kits for this old bike, my buddy in crime was one of the top 10 bike builders back in the day with Indian Larry, Arlen Ness, Jesse James etc, says we will cut the neck pull it out no big deal. will let you all know how it works out.
Cutting the neck and pulling it out does not do what a "rake kit" does. It increase the rake of the tubes true enough, but it also increases steering stem angle the same. In practice, it will increase trail which is the distance from the tire contact patch to that point where a line drawn through the steering stem meets the road. It will make heavier steering.

A "rake kit" is so named as it kicks the fork tubes out without changing the steering stem angle ... which shortens trail and lightens steering.

I did not even mention that both modifications also lower the front of the trike. I drew in a black line to show a modified stem angle.
 

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shakes

found raked trees, $1025.00 ,just cant swing that, SO took the front wheel in for a new tire, ordered stem bearings and fork seals, the stem bearing races were in bad shape!! we will see . thanks to all for the info.

well did all this still shakes BAD! now what? i cant afford $1200.00 for raked trees.
 
got all the parts today from saber cycle, fast shipping and all the parts were right ! got the stem bearings done, next fork seals. also posted 40 # torque on the bearings we found that way to much. bearings would go bad in no time. did them by feel much better.

You may have shot self in the foot on this one
 
As someone said, the rear tires can cause a wobble. Is the bolt pattern a common one that you could temporarily try some other wheels to see if that changes anything? Also a rear brake hanging up could be the problem. A pulsating brake on one side on the rear will swing the front end back and forth.

Like you said, the lady couldn't have ridden it that way so maybe something froze up or deteriorated from sitting.

Good luck.
 
shakes

As someone said, the rear tires can cause a wobble. Is the bolt pattern a common one that you could temporarily try some other wheels to see if that changes anything? Also a rear brake hanging up could be the problem. A pulsating brake on one side on the rear will swing the front end back and forth.

Like you said, the lady couldn't have ridden it that way so maybe something froze up or deteriorated from sitting.

Good luck.

checked out the rear cant find anything, it shakes even when slowly moving?
 
1200-1500 trees

Information that I find (on the Internet, of course) says that:

  • GL-1200 I “Interstate” (84-87)
  • GL-1200L “Ltd” (85)
  • and
  • GL-1500 “Goldwing” (88-90)
  • GL-1500I “Interstate” (91-96)

Both use 41mm diameter fork tubes so 1500 raked tree might work. The only thing I dont know about is if the threading of the slugs (if used) is compatible. The neck bearings look to have the same dimensions GL1200 to GL1500. you might have to get "creative" to get all the other pieces mounted to the triple trees.

Papa Zook, whats the difference between 1200 trees and 1500 trees ? could i fit your 1500 trees? thanks
 
shakes

You should really torque the steering head bearings before you continue. It's no longer a two wheeler. Tapered bearings can take a tremendous preload. Your fear of failure is preventing you from doing what needs to be done.

Thanks bill, there tight! i build model a fords the rear end used 4 timkin bearings so setting preload is very important.
 
shakes

Today sitting on the trike and steering it right to left the front wheel moved about 7 inches to the right ? rear end must be off to one side. took and screwed the left heim out and the right in now the wheel stays in one place. will try it tomorrow.
 
First things were not addressed

Dave,

Head-shake is generally caused by the rear wheels going over an uneven (smooth) surface.

Too much air pressure in the suspension (rear) or too much tire pressure (rear).

Check your rear pressures, 20psi in those car tires, NOT 30PSI !

Ride it, then check suspension pressure if equipped with air shocks or bags.

25PSI will soften the suspension.

Jim:Shrug:
 
shakes

Dave,

Head-shake is generally caused by the rear wheels going over an uneven (smooth) surface.

Too much air pressure in the suspension (rear) or too much tire pressure (rear).

Check your rear pressures, 20psi in those car tires, NOT 30PSI !

Ride it, then check suspension pressure if equipped with air shocks or bags.

25PSI will soften the suspension.

Jim:Shrug:

20# ? that seems almost flat??? thanks
 
20# ? that seems almost flat??? thanks

Not at all! You are lightly loading the tires, compared to their use on a car. I went from 35 down to 20 in my original rear tires (225-65/15), per advice on this forum.

REALLY improved the ride and braking. At 35 they would bounce on the road, and skid way too easily. My new low profile tires (225/45-15) run at 25, and are VERY comfortable, and brakes are all I could want. Never tried them at a higher PSI.

There is a lot of good, hard learned advice on this forum. Even if it doesnt seem 'right' to me, I try it. I have been happy with results.
 
It is really pretty simple ..... the car tires exhibited on your trike are for a 4,000 lb car.:confused:

Your trike weighs less than 1,000 lbs.:blush:

Why on earth would you fully inflate a pair of car tires on the REAR of your trike ???? :Shrug:

Try it, and if you don't like it, adjust them up until you just can't stand it anymore.:Joker3:
 
shakes

It is really pretty simple ..... the car tires exhibited on your trike are for a 4,000 lb car.:confused:

Your trike weighs less than 1,000 lbs.:blush:

Why on earth would you fully inflate a pair of car tires on the REAR of your trike ???? :Shrug:

Try it, and if you don't like it, adjust them up until you just can't stand it anymore.:Joker3:

thanks, Lee.
 
no more shakes !!

new to trikes but not motorcycles, just got a 1984 goldwing trike wants to shake the bars out of your hands at 30-40 mph never tried any faster after that, got a PM into papa about this. would like to hear any input on my problem . thanks:(

well replaced bearings ,fork seals , shock bushings heim joints , new ft tire , no change, than read that stem bearings torque to 14# than top nut to 70# no more shake. expensive lesson.
 

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