Boom starter motor

Jul 9, 2017
23
11
NORWICH
Has anybody removed the starter motor on an early (1997) Boom with a VW 1600 aircooled motor. The fuel tank is very close to the starter and doesn't appear to be able to be moved forward for clearance. The other alternative seems to be moving the engine and bellhousing back. The Boom dealer here is a waste of time as far as information is concerned ie. refer to Haynes manual for Beetle !!
 
I have stood near 1 boom trike and I have seen 1 other on the road.

So I do not know first hand.

It does not take much room to remove starter.

It would probably be easier to move forward or lift the body if you need more room.

It is common to lift the body on many of the other brands.
 
I have stood near 1 boom trike and I have seen 1 other on the road.

So I do not know first hand.

It does not take much room to remove starter.

It would probably be easier to move forward or lift the body if you need more

It is common to lift the body on many of the other brands.

The body has to be lifted to access the starter. Problem is that the fuel tank is about an inch away in front of the starter, not enough room to pull it out. The tank looks as if it is fitted in place in the frame and then the engine etc. fitted afterwards. There is a support bar that is in front of the tank stopping it from being moved forward to get clearance. I don't really fancy pulling the engine out so am considering cutting the frame and making bolt up brackets to refit it. Seems a hell of a lot of aggro just to change the starter.
 
You can get an inch or so of scoot back of the engine and tranny.

But whatever cage may be around the engine would be difficult to work with.

It is not very difficult to take the 2 bolts out of the bell housing mount on the frame horns. Then the nuts off the mount at nose cone. With it all on jack stands and no weight on axles or tires. Then pry back a little, then put it all back together.

I assure you...my vw trike is much harder to work on and it don't have a body at all.

Time and patience....
 
You can get an inch or so of scoot back of the engine and tranny.

But whatever cage may be around the engine would be difficult to work with.

It is not very difficult to take the 2 bolts out of the bell housing mount on the frame horns. Then the nuts off the mount at nose cone. With it all on jack stands and no weight on axles or tires. Then pry back a little, then put it all back together.

I assure you...my vw trike is much harder to work on and it don't have a body at all.

Time and patience....

I'm quickly running out of time ahead of a long Euro journey and have certainly run out of patience with Boom UK who are possibly the most obnoxious people I have ever dealt with as a potential customer. The machine itself is a very well made and extremely good in the handling department. Most of my problems are due to the age of the trike (1997) One big problem is the gas struts that support (or don't in my case) the body when it is lifted. I've fitted new ones but they just aren't up to the job.

My next step is to double them up. I've also got a couple of bits and pieces being made which will make the trike a bit more unusual over here. I'm in the process of having a fabrication firm look closely at hacking the frame up and fitting twin wheels at the back. I've seen a Boom hearse on Youtube with them. All depends on the readies (or lack of them!)
 
The one boom that I got near to looked to be well made.

Make it yours, whatever you want.

Myself....I am more hot rod inclined.

I run only as much tire as I have too.
 
The one boom that I got near to looked to be well made.

Make it yours, whatever you want.

Myself....I am more hot rod inclined.

I run only as much tire as I have too.

The Boom is very well made and solid. I run wide tyres on the back and a 5.00 x 16 on the front. It really does plant itself on the road exceptionally well. I've ridden a trike with fairly narrow tyres and it felt as if the back end was moving about in corners.
 

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