I have a 2020 Triglide with 8600 miles and my front brake lever was going all the way down to the grip. The brake lever would pump up, but would go all the way down after sitting overnight. I saw a video where a guy showed pumping up the brake then pulling in in as far as you can then clamping the lever down overnight with pressure kept on the brake system. He explained that brake fluid won't compress but air will. Keeping pressure on the system will force any air to migrate out of the lines. I will be the first to admit that sounds too easy, but in my case it worked perfect. The brakes are just like when I first bought the bike. I don't know why air got into the brake but this seems to have solved the problem. I hope this might help someone having the same problem. Hey it doesn't cost anything to try.
2020 Triglide spongy front brake fix
- Thread starter Blade 500
- Start date
PosseRider
3750+ Posts
How does the air get released from a "closed" system ??? seems like some valve would have to be opened.
Jack Klarich
18000+ Posts
Now would be a good time to suck out the fluid from the master cylinder and with a Q tip wipe out any residue. Top off master and bleed the front brakes.
As brake fluid ages it collects moisture, also after many heat cycles gasses form and can produce air bubbles. Brakes fluid IMO should be changed every 2 years no matter the miles JMO
The clamping of the lever is a good way of getting air out, I have used this method for years with good results. Good luck and stay informed
Welcome to Trike Talk
As brake fluid ages it collects moisture, also after many heat cycles gasses form and can produce air bubbles. Brakes fluid IMO should be changed every 2 years no matter the miles JMO
The clamping of the lever is a good way of getting air out, I have used this method for years with good results. Good luck and stay informed
Welcome to Trike Talk
ultrafxr
1250+ Posts
So Jack how does clamping the lever bleed air from the system? I'm thinking it would let any air in the system rise up into the master cylinder. Is that correct. And can you do the same thing with the clutch and rear brake? Not needing to do so but like to know about these things. Thanks.
Old Road Dog
650+ Posts
Yup its an old trick. But temporary. Bleeding is the only way to get the air out. I would clamp my '14 Dyna brake lever- until the dealer replaced the HCU reluctantly after I threatened to never buy another bike from them.
Jack Klarich
18000+ Posts
The air bubbles in theory will rise to the top since the compensating port is open, so when you do release the clamping you should be able to get all the air out when you bleed
Yes you can do the same with your clutch and rear brakes, BUT with ABS brakes be careful
ultrafxr
1250+ Posts
The air bubbles in theory will rise to the top since the compensating port is open, so when you do release the clamping you should be able to get all the air out when you bleed
Yes you can do the same with your clutch and rear brakes, BUT with ABS brakes be careful
I learned from a tech seminar at my local dealer where the tech did a flush that the ABS pump cycle is done after the flush is done. So I'm thinking one could flush the system and take it to the dealer for them to just do the ABS pump activation. During the ABS pump activation it instructs him to pump the brake lever (or brake pedal for the rear) like 60 or 70 times while it energizes the pump. That's it. Whatever fluid was in the ABS pump is just distributed into the new fresh fluid in the system. Tech said it would be a very small amount.
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