M8 Transmission Side Cover Removal

Completing a service on my 2018 M8. Need to remove the right side transmission side cover to access the clutch bleed valve. Problem: the exhaust is in the way... big time. I can remove the two hex screws needed to remove the cover, but there is not enough clearance to get the cover off. I have removed the exhaust shields, loosened the exhaust crossover and the exhaust mount bracket, but the exhaust pipe does not budge. I DID NOT loosen the exhaust flange at the heads.

Has anyone had any experience with this? Am I going to spend the entire day removing the exhaust system so I can bleed my clutch?

Why? you ask, am I even messing with it? Well, it's a two year requirement. I do my own services... and the DOT 4 fluid is a bit discolored, meaning there is some moisture in it. Thanks a heap for any and all answers... even if you just tell me I'm a dumb shit for attempting this.

Loosen all 4 of the exhaust stud nuts.

Here is your exhaust, #30 and 15 are exhaust hangars to loosen, on # 30 remove the nut #4 the hangar will hinge down

Thanks, Jack. I have the manual and also studied that diagram earlier today. I think I'll start fresh on a new day. I plan to remove the exhaust heat shields and maybe replace the hose clamps that hold the shields in place while I'm at it. That bracket (#14) at the exhaust tip looks very tricky. Will I need to lose that also?

Good news is that the 4 nuts at the flanges look easily accessible.

I know it's a bit of a pain, but I just want to make sure I check all the items off the service list. My TriGlide was a big investment and I plan on keeping it for a while.

David792 said:

Thanks, Jack. I have the manual and also studied that diagram earlier today. I think I'll start fresh on a new day. I plan to remove the exhaust heat shields and maybe replace the hose clamps that hold the shields in place while I'm at it. That bracket (#14) at the exhaust tip looks very tricky. Will I need to lose that also?

Good news is that the 4 nuts at the flanges look easily accessible.

I know it's a bit of a pain, but I just want to make sure I check all the items off the service list. My TriGlide was a big investment and I plan on keeping it for a while.

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Yes the bolts at the rear muffler hangars are tough, you will need a couple of different angled 1/2 wrenches. If you take your time it is very do able. When I first bled my Freewheeler I cheated. I removed the 2 bolts on the tranny cover, rotated the cover as far as I could. I used a medium extension, ratchet and socket to loosen the bleeder screw and bled the fluid out. It ran down the cover and into a drain pan. When I was done I flushed the cover and the side of the tranny with a hose and all was good. I can actually now wiggle my cover out by just removing the heat shields. I dunno why some of these M8 trikes are so different? Good Luck

Jack Klarich said:

Yes the bolts at the rear muffler hangars are tough, you will need a couple of different angled 1/2 wrenches. If you take your time it is very do able. When I first bled my Freewheeler I cheated. I removed the 2 bolts on the tranny cover, rotated the cover as far as I could. I used a medium extension, ratchet and socket to loosen the bleeder screw and bled the fluid out. It ran down the cover and into a drain pan. When I was done I flushed the cover and the side of the tranny with a hose and all was good. I can actually now wiggle my cover out by just removing the heat shields. I dunno why some of these M8 trikes are so different? Good Luck

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Not trying to hijack this thread, but I was researching pricing for new slipons for my 17 TG, and one dealer's service manager asked if I wanted the parts alone or installed. I asked for both prices, and the installation was quite high. When I questioned the price, he said "You have to take the trunk box off... that's the best way to get to the rear hanger bolts." Never heard of that approach before. I would still rather have the angled 1/2" wrenches. I have done it with a ratchet head 1/2" box already.

MB1953 said:

Not trying to hijack this thread, but I was researching pricing for new slipons for my 17 TG, and one dealer's service manager asked if I wanted the parts alone or installed. I asked for both prices, and the installation was quite high. When I questioned the price, he said "You have to take the trunk box off... that's the best way to get to the rear hanger bolts." Never heard of that approach before. I would still rather have the angled 1/2" wrenches. I have done it with a ratchet head 1/2" box already.

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We all know you can put mufflers on without removing the trunk and harley knows this also, at least I would think so anyway if he is a good mechanic anyway, they just do this to get more money out of you, that is why I do as much work as I can on mine.

I hope you can get the cover off David without to much trouble.

All for now Trampas

David,

I went through the same thing when I changed my slave cylinder to the Lite Force. Once I got the cover off, I cut a section off of the bottom to avoid this again when it’s time to bleed it. With the pipes back on less heat shields and a little cut then testing a few times, I found a sweet spot where the cover will come off without loosening the pipes. With the heat shield in place you can’t see the cut away either.

Steve

Thanks Guys: Today I took the long road. Removed the heat shields, loosened the exhaust flange nuts just out to the end of the studs. Loosened the muffler clamp and crossover clamp and the one hangar bracket on the header pipes. It still took a bit of persuasion to pull the headers out far enough for the cover to clear, but I did get it off.

I had enough DOT 4 to completely flush the system through two times. Nice and clear now. Good for another two years. The rest of the DOT 4 will get recycled with my next oil change since I can't use an opened container that's been sitting on a shelf.

Thanks again to Jack and everyone else who responded. P.S. is that next time I'll loosen all the exhaust clamps and brackets so I won't have to struggle to pull the dang thing only about 1/2" out for sufficient clearance.

Good deal David:clapping: I need to do mine again in December, I may trim a bit off the cover to make it easier

Why couldn't they just have put a dang derby cover on it?