heat wrap exhaust tape

Has anyone had or used any type of exhaust heat wrap tape under the heat shields to reduce the amount of heat thrown of by the exhaust pipes to make riding on warm days especially more bearable.

I tried some earlier this year, it helped a tad bit but the heat shield clamps would keep loosening up as the stuff settled so I grew tired of it and pulled it off.

Wrap will also retain moisture thus causing a mild steel exhaust pipe to rust through from the outside in. Wrapping is not worth the trouble or risk IMO.

Mr. Wizard,
How ya been? Hey, what about the silicone sealant sprays some of the wrap companies sell? Will this prevent that from happening? I just purchased a gutted head pipe from our friend Dennis at tglidestuff.com. He suggested this step, said he did it himself.

I wonder if it would help to have them powder coated first, wrapped, then use the silicone spray sealant? Sounds excessive but I am going for the max Wizard ABC's of heat reduction and would hate to have trouble down the road with rust.

Rob

Hey M A T

Sorry but I'm opinionated as ever! :wave4:

Ceramic coated should be all you need. To wrap ceramic coating is redundant IMO.

Also in my opinionated reasoning... Silicone spray will not keep the condensation or rain or wash water out of the wrap. It will seep through to the pipe and hold the condensation on the steel until it is turned into steam.

If you are able to seal the wrap from the outside then what about air gaps from the pipe to the wrap? Nice place for condensation to live and breed during a cold night in MD. :Shrug:

If you have removed the cat or use a catless 2-1 then you've removed the main radiant heat source. If you are still hot then look at the tune.

Wiz,
Thanks man. Not opinionated at all. When I talk you people like you, 10rhrk, Yogisan, iaff84, basically, all of you, It just helps me to make a more educated decision. ThumbUp

I'm gonna play stupid now, so be gentle. And this is just my particular situation, but might include others. I keep my Trike in a well ventilated, climate controlled (around 40 - 70 degrees year round) garage, and other than getting caught in the rain while riding, will never let it sit out in the rain.

So, wouldn't the sheer heat involved of the running engine dry that tape? :Shrug: I have no experience with any of this as you can tell. If I had my way, I would wrap it all the way to the back. I love that look.

I found a place online (would have to send the part to them), looks like they charge $80 bucks for ceramic, inside and out. Not a bad deal.

This gutted head pipe was totally premature and will lead me down a path I had hoped I wasn't going to go this time, but the room started spinning, I got all crazy eyed, and I couldn't pass up on it. Luckily, the Gods were smiling down on me and I was fortunate enough to be able to keep my stock unit in the process.

So if I start with the Slip-Ons, it's a minor mod I could do over the winter to add some better sound, look more unique, and do so without breaking the bank. Because I am actually content with the performance aspect of the 103 and honestly would like to not treat/ride this one like a racer (gives people more time to stare). Then later, maybe in the spring/early summer, (since the extra, gutted head pipe will finished during the winter), if I get ambitious and decide I want to eliminate the heat issue more, I'll pick up a new intake and tuner, and tear it all apart and put it back together.

But with just the slip-ons, if I decide not to, no harm no foul, right?

What are your (or anyone's) thoughts on all of this?
Thanks,
Rob

80 bucks is pretty cheap for ceramic coating. Just so you have this in mind... the inner coating is nearly impossible to do right. It takes a special paint adapter that can enter the pipe and spray evenly the inside. It takes a few hours to get right.

Just a quick question... you have a 2012. Did your catless head pipe come with the new style sensor bungs welded in place and do you have the old style plugs or is it a 2010 and up pipe that someone cut and gutted?

The place I was looking at had a real detailed price list for all sorts of automotive/motorcycle parts, including just about every kind of pipe you can think of.

I would assume they have the process down to a T but maybe that's why it's so cheap.

The newly gutted head pipe is off a 2011, so you tell me???????????? Man, I hope it fits right. If not........well, I will be sad.........
Rob

M.A.T. said:

The place I was looking at had a real detailed price list for all sorts of automotive/motorcycle parts, including just about every kind of pipe you can think of.

I would assume they have the process down to a T but maybe that's why it's so cheap.

The newly gutted head pipe is off a 2011, so you tell me???????????? Man, I hope it fits right. If not........well, I will be sad.........
Rob

Click to expand...

2010 and up head pipe are all the same so you are OK.

As far as the wrapping getting wet... I'll have to stand firm on my silly opinion. No matter where it is stored it's going to be washed or ridden in the rain and put up to dry. I really don't think you need to wrap.

M.A.T. said:

Wiz,

So if I start with the Slip-Ons, it's a minor mod I could do over the winter to add some better sound, look more unique, and do so without breaking the bank. Because I am actually content with the performance aspect of the 103 and honestly would like to not treat/ride this one like a racer (gives people more time to stare). Then later, maybe in the spring/early summer, (since the extra, gutted head pipe will finished during the winter), if I get ambitious and decide I want to eliminate the heat issue more, I'll pick up a new intake and tuner, and tear it all apart and put it back together.

But with just the slip-ons, if I decide not to, no harm no foul, right?

Click to expand...

If you simply add slip on mufflers and leave your cat pipe on there is no harm, no foul. The ECM will readjust itself within a couple of three tanks of gas back to where you were.

If you install slip on mufflers and replace the head pipe then you are walking a fine line where the ECM may not have enough room for adjusting itself.

If you do any of the above and add a new AC then there is now way for the ECM to make up the difference. You must tune.

Tuning a stock bike will also let your motor run more efficiently. How you ride it is totally up to the lose nut that holds the handle bars to the seat. :laugh:

Bro, I was freaking out :AGGHH: I thought I was gonna have to tell the wife I screwed up again.

See, like I keep saying, I don't think very well by myself. :wave4:

Rob

Mr.Wizard said:

If you simply add slip on mufflers and leave your cat pipe on there is no harm, no foul. The ECM will readjust itself within a couple of three tanks of gas back to where you were.

Click to expand...

This is what I am learning here............

If you install slip on mufflers and replace the head pipe then you are walking a fine line where the ECM may not have enough room for adjusting itself.

Click to expand...

Hmmmm, REALLY, and I have half the equation coming in the mail! [wringing hands and mad scientist laugh]

If you do any of the above and add a new AC then there is now way for the ECM to make up the difference. You must tune.

Click to expand...

And that's almost half or more of the overall exhaust mod cost from what I am seeing............

Tuning a stock bike will also let your motor run more efficiently.

Click to expand...

You'd think that wouldn't be the case.............but I know from diesel experience that is the truth.

How you ride it is totally up to the lose nut that holds the handle bars to the seat. :laugh:

Click to expand...

Well, I made a promise to the wife not to slide back into my evil ways this time............:Angel:

We'll see

TTS can be had for 380 bucks but you will need the USB cable kit 70 bucks and pay shipping.

There are alternatives... cheap way to go is xIED's just to enhance your fuel mixture a bit. Gas mileage in most cases will go down but it will also help reduce some residual heat.

Here's another stupid question. After all the Exhaust and AC mods are done, and it's time to add the new ECM tuner, does this step require a dyno? Or is this a plug and ride step?

And what's the deal with these Auto Tune tuners out there?