synthetic or regular oil

[newtriker]

I want to do start doing my oil changes and right now it has regular motorcycle oil. Can I change to synthetic without a problem? I have a 1994 goldwing 1500 and don't want to hurt it. Thanks.

[Gorilla]

How many miles on it? How many miles a year do you ride? Depending on the answers goes a long way in my opinion on which to use. Now if it was a air cooled motor there would be no debate. If you are a low mileage rider, stay with a good regular oil, because you will be changing the oil on a time schedule not a mileage schedule. Ted

[North of 49]

Hi Newtriker........if you like to read a lot, go to the website...bobistheoilguy.com for more than enough information to confuse you for life. If you scroll down to the motorcycle section, there are over 1400 threads.
Personally, I have used "automotive type" synthetics for years and I feel my bikes/trike shifted better and ran quieter, than with the regular oils. I might add that I feel the motorcycle branded synthetics are way over priced. I don't extend the oil change period, and the extra cost per year for synthetic is insignificant.
I doubt that any engine has ever crashed, due to oil failure, using any oil, that has been regularily changed, according to the manual.

[Ozarkryder]

Hoo Boy - the dreaded oil thread finally rears it's head!

Asking about oil is about like asking what kind of beer is the best. Some like Miller Lite, others like Guinnes.

Like North Of 49 said - I haven't heard of an engine going down if the oil used was of good quality, changed regularly according to the type/weight the manufacturer recommends.

I am not going to get into a "this oil is best" deal, but I will say whatever kind of oil I am using I change it to a "modifiable" schedule. Dino oil gets the tradidional 3000 miles, synth goes for around 5000. I don't feel bad at all letting a change go 500 - 1000 miles over (change under the miles will never hurt the engine, just the budget) in the realatively clean running Gold Wing.
The Harley, on the other hand is harder on oil, being a twin, large bore and stroke and air cooled. I not only stick to the schedule, but on the pre-ride check I look at the oil for color and forgien matter, I feel it for lubrication and grit and smell it for water, gas ect. in the fluid.

Do the same on the 'Wing, I usually change oil by look, smell and feel (no, no taste) more than mileage or time. That way is usually very close to the time/mileage method.

[John Luciano]

I have been using an oil called Rotella ,10W 40 comes in a Big Blue jug sold at tractor supply and Wal Mart and other places I am sure. Said to Synthetic, people have argued it is not. Be careful when buying oil, if it is for a Gold Wing it MUST not contain any antifriction additives, If it mentions even that is is energy saving or better mileage don't use it. Gold Wings and other Jap bikes share oil with the trany and wet clutch . You don't want any slippage in there .

[CadtoChrome]

It MUST not contain any anti friction additives, If it mentions even that is is energy saving or better mileage don't use it. Gold Wings and other Jap bikes share oil with the trany and wet clutch . You don't want any slippage in there .

What I might add is that all oil used in the the internal combustion engine has what is called an API rating. Basically this rating lets the buyer know that the oil they are buying meets the stated API rating for their application.

Both Honda and Harley branded oil containers (reason unknown) do NOT put the API rating on their oil cans, but all others I have ever seen do have the rating.

Check your manual or look on the oil can of the oil you presently use and see what the API rating is.

ANY oil on the market that has a given API rating must meet and/or exceed the standard for that given API rating.

Additional additives may provide more "something" to the oil that a user may find desirable however at the end of the day it will at least meet and may exceed the stated API rating class.

If the oil you wish to purchase has the API rating that suits your engine, the brand does not matter so much, it matters only if your looking for additives that give you better piece of mind.

Remember, the engine manufactures specify a minimum oil rating (API Class) they wish have used in their engines. As long as you use that oil rating, your engine will be happy.

Chuck

[ben721364]

I want to do start doing my oil changes and right now it has regular motorcycle oil. Can I change to synthetic without a problem? I have a 1994 goldwing 1500 and don't want to hurt it. Thanks.

I suggest that you check your owners' manual and use motor oil that meets the stated specs. Beware of recommendations (here and elsewhere) that contradict what the engine manufacturer recommends. If you don't have the Owners' Manual, find someone who does.

[Goldwingtrike]

I have been using an oil called Rotella ,10W 40 comes in a Big Blue jug sold at tractor supply and Wal Mart and other places I am sure. Said to Synthetic, people have argued it is not. Be careful when buying oil, if it is for a Gold Wing it MUST not contain any antifriction additives, If it mentions even that is is energy saving or better mileage don't use it. Gold Wings and other Jap bikes share oil with the trany and wet clutch . You don't want any slippage in there .

You do want slippage in there.

[Goldwingtrike]

I want to do start doing my oil changes and right now it has regular motorcycle oil. Can I change to synthetic without a problem? I have a 1994 goldwing 1500 and don't want to hurt it. Thanks.

NT, I have only been riding for 5 years now. My first ride was a 1993 GW trike
and the folks I bought her from used 10W30 AMSOIL Motorcycle Oil. I have put it both of my other two since then and with no problems - it is FULLY synthetic. I use it in all my vehicles with great results.

Garland

[John Luciano]

You can change back and forth no problem. try the Rotella in the Blue gallon jug . Wal Mart , Tractor Supply . about $18.00 I think it is 5W 40 not sure . The GW will shift like butter.

[Mattel]

I have been using an oil called Rotella ,10W 40 comes in a Big Blue jug sold at tractor supply and Wal Mart and other places I am sure. Said to Synthetic, people have argued it is not. Be careful when buying oil, if it is for a Gold Wing it MUST not contain any antifriction additives, If it mentions even that is is energy saving or better mileage don't use it. Gold Wings and other Jap bikes share oil with the trany and wet clutch . You don't want any slippage in there .

I am pretty sure the Stallion has a note in the manual that states you are not suppose to put any anti-friction additives in it too. Does anyone know if this is the same thing on the Stallion? Does anyone put any additives in their Stallion oil?

Zook, do you know the answer to this question?

[Gorilla]

Hi Mattel, The Stallion as you know is a complete Ford drive train. There is nothing there that you should treat any different then you would a car. Any good quality automobile oil will work just fine in a Stallion. The question of synthetic or not as far as I am concerned is one of oil change interval. A good synthetic can go 10k between changes if you are a high mileage rider. If you are a low mileage rider I would suggest regular good quality oil and a 3k change or once a year if you do not even do the 3k per year. The anti friction stuff they are speaking of is the STP type additives. With today's technology these really are not as beneficial as in the past. My Police car is a Ford Crown Victoria 4.6 liter. We change oil every 4k miles. We use Texaco regular 10 w 30 motor oil. We run them until they basically die. We have not had any engine failures in the 12 years I have been with this department from wear. We run them to between 150k and 190k before they die from transmissions, suspensions or the driver crashes them. At that point they are showing some smoke, but not what you would expect. Most of our cars get around 30 to 35k miles a year on them. My current car has 90k and runs like new. You also need to consider in this that police cars sit and idle a lot besides the mileage. I have been at crashes where it sits for 3 to 4 hours idling with the overheads on. Good quality oil and the right change interval is the secret to long engine life. Ted

[John Luciano]

On the stallion and even the Harley the Transmission is separate from the motor ( Metric (Japanese) bikes the engine and transmission share oil . In this case the clutch is using the same oil that the engine is using called a wet clutch. The problem is if you use the wrong oil or additives in the oil you will get a slippery coating on the clutch plates and they will no longer hold, causing the clutch to slip and they will need to be replaced. Some oil has an energy seal on the can ( a little green gear symbol )or may say increase mileage or anti friction etc. this will cause harm to a Japanese ( ie Gold Wing Suzuki etc. ) In the case of the stallion a good oil for a car is fine even the anti friction is good. Speaking of oil /miles my Work truck had 265,00 on it when I left work approx 36,000 a year it was a 1999 Toyota T 100. ran Castrol GTX every 7,000 miles .

[ben721364]

On the stallion and even the Harley the Transmission is separate from the motor ( Metric (Japanese) bikes the engine and transmission share oil . In this case the clutch is using the same oil that the engine is using called a wet clutch. The problem is if you use the wrong oil or additives in the oil you will get a slippery coating on the clutch plates and they will no longer hold, causing the clutch to slip and they will need to be replaced. Some oil has an energy seal on the can ( a little green gear symbol )or may say increase mileage or anti friction etc. this will cause harm to a Japanese ( ie Gold Wing Suzuki etc. ) In the case of the stallion a good oil for a car is fine even the anti friction is good. Speaking of oil /miles my Work truck had 265,00 on it when I left work approx 36,000 a year it was a 1999 Toyota T 100. ran Castrol GTX every 7,000 miles .

BMW motorcycles also have dry clutches, at least in R and K bikes. As stated earlier, I believe it wise to use the type oil specification though not necessarily the brand recommended by the manufacturer in the owners' manual; and disregard old wives' tales and hype from various oil marketers.