The easiest way to remove the Header?

[M.A.T.]

My Fellow Trikers ,

Just curious what is the easiest way to remove the header without a lift table?

I suppose jack stands would work but..........it scares me.

And if anyone can provide a detailed description of the process or of the steps and what to look out for etc. it would be greatly appreciated. Or direct me to a thread on the forum if one exists. I searched and couldn't find anything.

I have the bike jack I used to remove and install the lift kit and mufflers but that sits under the engine area, frame to frame, and I can't imagine you don't drop the header out the bottom to remove it.

Thanks,
Rob

[roadrumble]

You really don't need to jack up the trike to remove the header.
Probably easier but not a have too.
I have removed mine a couple of times without jacking it up.
I ran the rear wheels up on some ramps to make it easier to remove the mufflers.
You also need remove the front foot rest. Remove the 4 flange bolts at the heads, and the 2 bolts securing the header to the frame.
Carefully twist it away from engine and wah lah you have removed header.
Good luck!!

[JohnC]

Rob,

There is really nothing to removing the stock header.

Begin by removing all of the exhaust heat shields. They are held in place with worm clamps and can be removed with a screwdriver or a 1/4" socket.

Next is removal of the mufflers. Remove the nuts from each of the muffler clamps (do not try to remove the clamps at this time). You'll then want to unbolt the mufflers from the hanging brackets underneath the trunk body. There are two bolts for each bracket. They can be challenging to get to, but I had no problem at all using a box-end wrench and small turns at a time. Once the mufflers are unbolted from the brackets, they will drop a bit and you will be able to "twist" them off the head pipe.

The next step is to remove the cross-over pipe that goes under the swing arm. There is one more muffler clamp to loosen and a small hanger bracket located at the back center of the swing arm. Once the bracket is removed and the clamp loosened, you can again "twist" the crossover pipe in a back and forth motion to remove it from the main exhaust header.

The next thing you want to do is unplug the O2 sensors from the bike. There are two connectors for sensors located under the right side cover, a black one and a gray one. Just unplug the sensors at this time; do not try to remove the sensors from the header.

At this point, you'll want to remove the right side rider's footboard if you haven't already. You may also want to loosen the bolts holding the footboard mount bracket to the bike's frame. This will provide additional clearance around the exhaust header.

Located below the transmission side cover is a bracket that bolts to the header. Remove the bolt that holds the header to the bracket. The bracket stays in place on the bike.

Remove the flange nuts from the rear exhaust port where it bolts to the head. Then LOOSEN the nuts from the front exhaust port. At this point the header may begin to drop. Just be prepared to hold onto to it as you remove the front exhaust flange nuts.

At this point, the header can be removed from the bike.

If you're comfortable around a tool box and are mechanically inclined, you should have no problem.

One more thing: If you don't already have a service manual and a parts manual, I highly recommend you purchase them both. The service manual tells you in explicit detail how things are done, the pats manual provides exploded pictures of parts fit together. My manuals are perhaps the most important tools in my arsenal.

Hope this helps.

[iaff84]

Fuel Moto has good instructions at the bottom of this link. On mine, floorboard bolts were the hardest thing to remove for some reason.
Dennis

*Jackpot Tri Glide 2/1/2 Headpipes

[M.A.T.]

I love this forum! You guys are great.

I had kinda hoped that with Dennis's lift kit on there I could just loosen the rear bracket bolts on the mufflers, then remove the rest of the bolts form the rest of the system and slide the cross-over pipe out without removing the rear muffler bolts all the way. Oh well, aint like this guy hasn't been there once before.

I do like the idea of just using ramps time instead of jacking it up the way I did before if I can't squeeze my fat arss under the rear for those bolts.

Thank you all again, so much!!!

Hey JohnC, I see you went with the TTS and like it a lot. I still haven't ordered the Vision yet. Ordered the handlebar mount and got my gutted header wrapped this weekend though. I wish I had more confidence in myself with that TTS. Dennis said he really liked the Vision though and he and I share the same aptitude it sounds like in that area with him having more of an advantage I'm sure........

I will post my findings when I am all finished. Bought a handheld laser thermometer just for this exercise in heat reduction. We'll see.....

Rob

[Mr.Wizard]

Just a note of caution.

When you reinstall the heat shields... The collector heat shield goes on last. Don't tighten any of them until they are all on so you can adjust the fit. Last note of caution... Don't even think of snugging the collector heat shield too tight or you will dimple in the welded clamps under the shield. The metal is very thin. If the worm gear clamp is tightened too much... boom... you got dimpleitis.

[M.A.T.]

Wiz,
Thanks a lot, I do tend to overdo my hand torque settings all the time. I will keep all this in mind on the re-install. And since JohnC had the heat shield removal early on in his instructions I would assume then that they go on last after everything else is in place an tight, right? And just so I am on the same page, the "collector" shield is the one over the cat area?

Rob

[Mr.Wizard]

Yup... that is correct.

I think it's been said before but the exhaust system should be installed loose then torque the bolts from back muffler bracket to the head ports leaving the bolt at the bottom of the tranny cover as the last one.

If the exhaust system is not in a comfy place before the tranny bracket bolt is tightened then you could experience floorboard vibrations.

Just little tricks to make life a little easier....

[M.A.T.]

Thanks a lot Wiz. I'm excited and at the same time, anxious and a little reluctant to just dive right in on this. You know enough about me to understand when I say this is major work for me. I want it to all be right sure, but it's more important for me to not have any problems down the road either from haste. I know you don't endorse header wrap but just because of others success stories with it I wrapped mine anyway. Went with DEI Titanium 2" x 50'. I did a hefty overlap too, and used 4 hose clamps to keep it in place, of course wrapping from back to front. I used large electrical wire nuts inserted in the bung holes to keep from covering them or having to cut through to get at them when the time comes to install the oxygen sensors.

After all is said and done I will have approximately $1300.00 in the mufflers/end caps, intake (I spent more for some extra bling here), header/wrap, and tuner, not including my time, but I don't pay myself much since I'm not a pro. I would estimate a $300. - $500. savings over going through a dealer to have this work done depending on components. Sure, 300. - 500. is not chump change and is a lot even to me but I have to wonder if I am almost at the breaking point of effort/stress on my part vs do nothing to have similar results without the effort/stress.

Of course, then I would just have to take what I got as it was and live with it. And to be honest, when I had my RKC done I ws not all that thrilled with the finished sound. The VRSCD work on the other hand was up to snuff, but at 1800.00 out the door for a ECM flash, a muffler and a filter, seemed a tad bit high. It sounded bada$$ that's for sure, and was a rocket but......

I feel for sure, doing it all myself (ha, like I can say that and sleep at night) has been a huge learning experience so maybe I should deduct what that would cost someone to learn in a class room. And the pride in being able to tell my gear head friends that pay to have it done for lack of time that I did it myself, well, that's just priceless.

And since I am more like a kid refusing to ever grow up I have to wonder, with a tuner that you can dial in based on your components, wouldn't it be possible to remove the muffler cores for even more air flow and decibels? Just curious.

Rob

[trikermutha]

They have kits available to recore the stocks mufflers..

Intro

[Mr.Wizard]

Going over a 1.75 baffle will remove the needed exhaust restriction for bottom end torque. It will move your power band to the right side of the chart which is geared more to the higher RPM/Throttle/kPa areas.

A TG needs lower end pull, so opening up baffles will create less lower end torque.

The less restriction the harder it is to tune the lower RPM to mid range idle to cruising ranges.

It's a thin line. A little noise (more restriction) or a lot of noise (less restriction).

My favorite saying is... Loud is not fast, it's just loud.

[M.A.T.]

See, there's always a catch. But I hear what you are saying. I read about this all the time in my truck mags. Like I said, just a kid at heart wanting to be heard......

Actually, I quite pleased with the way it sounds now and while I hope it gets louder I would not want it so loud that I can't hear my Funny Little Honey, or the radidio.

Rob

[M.A.T.]

They have kits available to recore the stocks mufflers..

Intro

Thanks TM, this would come in very handy for anyone wanting to buy mine and play around with them............

Rob

[M.A.T.]

Hey Guys,
I forgot to ask, what about torque specs on the header flange bolts or O2 sensors?

I plan on doing the work this weekend if possible.

Thanks so much!
Rob

[msocko3]

Hey Guys,
I forgot to ask, what about torque specs on the header flange bolts or O2 sensors?

I plan on doing the work this weekend if possible.

Thanks so much!
Rob

I follow the service manual torque spec and instructions.

[M.A.T.]

Awww crap! I knew I would forget the most important piece to this puzzle.

You wouldn't care to share that info with me till I can get my own copy of one would ya? Or is it online somewhere? I would be forever indebted. And where do I pick up a copy of the service manual? I read on here you need it and a supplement????? No dedicated Tri-Glide Ultra manual?

Thanks,
Rob

[msocko3]

Awww crap! I knew I would forget the most important piece to this puzzle.

You wouldn't care to share that info with me till I can get my own copy of one would ya? Or is it online somewhere? I would be forever indebted. And where do I pick up a copy of the service manual? I read on here you need it and a supplement????? No dedicated Tri-Glide Ultra manual?

Thanks,
Rob

You can get the service manual at the dealer. If someone doesn't jump in before I can get the information a little later today I'll get it,

[JohnC]

• Crossover pipe hanger bracket: 84-132 in-lbs
• Exhaust flange adapter nuts, initial: 9-18 in-lbs
• Exhaust flange adapter nuts, final: 100-120 in-lbs
• Exhaust side bracket carriage bolt: 20-25 ft-lbs
• Exhaust crossover pipe clamp: 25-30 ft-lbs
• Crossover support clamp-to-transmission bracket fastener: 14-18 ft-lbs
• Exhaust heat shield worm-drive clamp screws: 20-40 in-lbs

[M.A.T.]

Man, you guys are the best!!! I will buy a manual first thing as soon as I can but this will enable me to get the job done if I can't get to dealer before they close later.

Thanks again so much,
Rob

[M.A.T.]

Ok, the trike is done! Thanks to each and every one of you! It took me both Saturday and Sunday to get it done but it's a top notch job you would think a shop did it.

I want to do a detailed installation description and take some some photos and maybe even post up another video to the web but the short of it, no popping on deceleration, even at high speed, considerable quickness from a dead stop, really noticeable and as a bonus I got some decibels too outta the deal.

The real question, did I accomplish the task of reducing the heat? Well, after about 45 minutes into my hour and a half test ride I was able to reach down with my left hand and touch the fins on the rear cylinder. Not quickly either, I mean put my fingers on it. The air tamp on the gauge read 60 the entire ride and I had both the lower vents and batwing vents closed the entire time. I rode mostly at high speed when I could, and as constantly as possible. I kept feeling around the rear cylinder with my right hand and in general it felt like less heat overall.

Does it feel cooler? Yes, it feels much cooler. I will back this up during my next test ride on a hotter day and with my laser thermometer. And later with a digital oil dip stick.

The best part is, And you guys don't know how proud I am of myself, but not only did I get the look and sound and blistering heat relief results I wanted, but I did all the work myself. Well, to be honest, I did have to get the wife to hold the gas tank upright from falling while I wire tied the tuner cable to the frame under it. But she's part of the team so that doesn't count. But still, besides the money I saved the feeling of self accomplishment makes me all warm inside. I owe it all to all of you, and anyone one else not on this thread that has helped me on other threads in regards to the heat issue. All of you, thank you so much.

Oh, here's something I do remember, I was able to pull off 50 mph in 6th gear at 2k rpm with power to accelerate. Not racing power but power. I am pretty sure I could never pull those number before. Oh, and I checking this against the tuner with the odometer but according to the Dynojet Power Vision I was averaging 38.6 - 40.1 mpg during this test ride. And like I said, I was not taking it easy. I was not redlining either from stop to stop, but lets just say, until yesterday 80 mph was top speed for me on the trike.

More to come for sure.
Thank you all again ,
Rob