For those who have them: Will stock clutch cable, TBW, brake lines and all wires work? Is getting the inner fairing off much of a job? Thanks. Willie
For those who have them: Will stock clutch cable, TBW, brake lines and all wires work? Is getting the inner fairing off much of a job? Thanks. Willie
I took mine in this last wednesday & had the dealer do it.They just rerouted the clutch cable,nothing else to purchase.
i just installed 10" paul yippes "bagger bars"100.00 on ebay E-BLACK ONE and all i had to buy was a 4" over clutch cable.$120.00 and the bars and a 12" TBW extension about $20. on dealers all. and no exhaust had to be removed. i used cut-off allen-wrenches. i'm 5'11" tall and with hands fwd the distance between sholder and wrist is 21". just to give you a reference.('09 tri-glide)
now i can sit back in the back rest and reach the handlebars comfortably.
the clutch cable instructions say if you go farther than 2" you need a longer c/cable.
so i suggest you see if the 2"'s is long enough for you to be comfortable ?
if not then you can do the p/y bagger bars yourself. just do a search on this site
"install 10" paul yippes bagger bars" by eagle1.there are some good photo's
of the bars installed by other guys. good luck
the dealer just did mine, front fairing, and the radio was out of the bike to get to the clamp for the handlebars. That is what I saw the mechanic doing. I did buy new cables just to make sure nothing is too tight, just me worring about things.
I bought a new clutch cable for mine
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Steve TOI #285
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Stage One Download, Rinehart Slipons, Fuel Moto Breather kit, 2" pull back handlebars, 1 1/4" rear shock lift, FlashR side signal lighting, TourPak re-position kit, Rear sequential turn signals, Wide Windshield, Windshield trim, Floorboard extensions, Trailer hitch, etc etc etc
I put on new stainless steel braided cables.
No need to touch the inner fairing. Remove the ignition switch and cover that holds acc and other switch's to expose the two rear handlebar clamp bolts.
Don't have to buy a clutch cable either. Re-route it and have plenty of slack.
I like the route I have Annette's better now than the original way.
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2010 RK almost stock, 2012 Triglide, Stage 1 and some Mods.
I'm curious if you don't move the inner fairing how do you remove the 2 top allen bolts to get the bars off? Moving the inner fairing to gain access wasn't that hard. I thought getting into the area with a short allen wrench would be harder. Maybe not let me know what you did please.
Stallion #406 // 2013 Tri-Glide
I just had the Bagger Bars mounted on my Trike. I don't know about the cables but I had all Braided stuff installed while they were at it. Having taller bars seems to give me more leverage handling the Trike at higher speeds running through turns, excellent! It all looks great too!
Black Pearl 2007 Street Glide/2010 California Side Car Conversion
On my wife's 2010 SG Trike and her 2012 Triglide, I didn't touch the inner fairing. I removed the ignition switch and plate underneath. After removing the outer fairing and radio, Got access to the bolt's, no problem! I have a picture of her 2012 Triglide during the process, but not from the inner fairing side. sorry!
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2010 RK almost stock, 2012 Triglide, Stage 1 and some Mods.
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Sorry if I caused any confusion. Here are all the pics my wife could find. They are from her 2010 FLHXXX 2" pullback bar install. Wish now I had done a video. She helped when she could and witnessed that I did not move the inner fairing. I'll be glad to help anybody interested in doing this. If you lived close enough, I would gladly free of charge work with them to see how simple it is. Picture of the bar's, even though not aligned perfectly, gives a little idea of the difference in stock bar's and 2" pullbacks. Ron
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2010 RK almost stock, 2012 Triglide, Stage 1 and some Mods.
10rhrk from what I see in your picture you remove the inter fairing mount and radio. I do not. I just pull the inter fairing up a couple of inches and let it lean forward to gain access. Different strokes for different folks gets the job done either way.
Stallion #406 // 2013 Tri-Glide
Maybe this will better explain Gorrilla, I removed the Ignition switch and panel
Number 21 in this diagram that holds the acc,cruise and running light's switches. Pulled off the outer fairing and removed the radio, that's it!
Like you said, theres more than one way to do it.
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2010 RK almost stock, 2012 Triglide, Stage 1 and some Mods.
2010 RHS Tri-Glide Ultra, Fuelmoto stainless headpipe, Supertrapp SE slip-ons, SE255 cams w/S&S lifters and TTS2 tuned by Docs Performance, Lenale parade fan, UltraCool Reefer oil cooler, ClutchWiz, Barnett+1 clutch pack. Hayden chain tensioner, crotch-cooler shields, Wild1 WO575 chubbies, Road Zeppelin air seat, 30t. primary belt pulley, Lyndall rear ceramic/aluminum rotors w/L. pads rear and front, Garmin Road Tech 660 w/radio interface, 1.25" lift brackets
I hate it when that happens I guess I've been lucky so far. No stripped of broken bolt's while doing service and upgrades. It was hard for me to believe the number of people over on HDforum's having trouble with the Derby cover Torx head bolt's. I've never stripped one! Just have to use the right tool. Good luck and ride safe!!
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2010 RK almost stock, 2012 Triglide, Stage 1 and some Mods.
KRUZR That's the best looking set up I've ever seen. Guess I'll be sending some more $$$ now.