Rear brakes on 1991 mt trike

[polarsue]

Hi all,can anyone throw some light on our question.We have recently bought a 1991 Motor trike and find the rear brake pedal has to travel a long distance to be effective and we would like to adjust this.I have noticed that we have drum brakes on the rear and was curious as to know where the disc pads were located.Yes I know some of you are thinking just get under and look but any help would much appreciated.
Many thanks .Sue

[John Luciano]

Drum brakes do not have disk pads they have shoes. They should have a little kidney shaped rubber plug on the lower rear of the backer plate . You remove the plug and rotate the wheel brake adjuster with a brake adjusting tool untill you can just hear the shoe rub the drum.

[Scott1]

Hi all,can anyone throw some light on our question.We have recently bought a 1991 Motor trike and find the rear brake pedal has to travel a long distance to be effective and we would like to adjust this.I have noticed that we have drum brakes on the rear and was curious as to know where the disc pads were located.Yes I know some of you are thinking just get under and look but any help would much appreciated.
Many thanks .Sue

Yes you stated you have drum brakes and the brake shoes (not pads) are located inside the rear metal drums. You have to remove the rear wheels to get to the drums and then you remove the metal drums to get to the brake shoes. You can adjust the rear drum brakes by turning the adjuster wheel inside the drum a little at a time until the brake shoes rub. As stated in post #2 you adjust from behind turning the wheel inside the drum. The adjuster wheel only turns one way so go slow. If you adjust the brakes to much you will have to remove the drum and rotate the adjuster wheel backwards.

Another problem is that you need to change (bleed) the brake fluid in a bike this old. Old brake fluid has water moisture in the brake line and may also have air trapped. Changing the fluid may bring the brake pedal up higher and firmer.

[polarsue]

Hi guys,perhaps i did not make myself very clear,i do know that drum brakes have shoes and am aware of how to adjust them,but thanks for your advice anyway.The prob seems to be that the rear brake pedal on the honda goldwing 1500 mt is connected through a slave cylinder and i presumed it went to the original disc setup,oops,do i take it that the drum brakes are also hydraulic operated as well as cable(for the handbrake)sorry for appearing thick but we do not have a manual for this particular MT .Thanks Sue

[Rowdy]

<b>The MT you have should use the original master cyl. Is this what you are calling the slave cyl.? It is located on the right side of the trike down by the frame inside the side cover. The lines run from this to the rear brakes and also to the left front brake. The cable is not used unless it is maybe for the trikes equipped with a parking brake. Not sure about that.<br /><br />
<br /><br />
The drum brakes on the MT I had never were good enough. I was adjusting them constantly. I changed shoes and drums also to try to correct it. If I remember correctly, Motortrike states that the lines on the master cyl. be reversed when the conversion is done.<br />
<br />
I suspect that was my problem.

</b>

[polarsue]

Thanks Rowdy for your input,much appreciated,I will try an adjustment and maybe new fluid.

[keepinon]

The drum brakes on my MT work very well. But I have noticed that as they wear, the brake pedal travel increases. When the pedal gets low, that is when I know to adjust them. You have to adjust them more frequently than an auto, because of the small fluid reservoir.<br />
<br />
I adjust mine differently than suggested above. I want both rear brakes to engage at the same time, so I tighten the brakes until the wheel will not rotate, then I back off, counting the clicks, until it's turning easily, but dragging slightly. Do both wheels the same "click" count, your rear brakes will both engage at exactly the same time.<br />
<br />
Just another approach...

[Judge Judy]

Old Thread - New Question:

"The adjuster wheel only turns one way so go slow. If you adjust the brakes to much you will have to remove the drum and rotate the adjuster wheel backwards."

or...

"I adjust mine differently than suggested above. I want both rear brakes to engage at the same time, so I tighten the brakes until the wheel will not rotate, then I back off, counting the clicks, until it's turning easily, but dragging slightly."

Which one is correct?

And...do you have to buy a special tool or can you use a screwdriver to get in the hole to make the adjustment (as I saw on a YouTube video)?

[keepinon]

heh-heh, that second way is mine. <img src="images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" /><br /><br />
<br /><br />
I use an old fashioned brake spoon, available at any auto parts store for a few $, I think I paid $5 for mine, couldn't find the one I had back when.<br /><br />
<br /><br />
If you use this method, picture the adjustment wheel in your mind, your "spoon" will engage the teeth at about the center of the wheel. Turning the adjustment wheel "up" always tightens the brakes. I tighten until I can't turn the wheel.<br /><br />
<br /><br />
Now to release, you may have to relieve the adjuster arm pressure on the other side of the adjust wheel. It's just a flat metal arm that pushes down on the opposite side. I use a small screw driver, or a thin metal rod (a welding rod is perfect, a piece of wire coat hanger about 8" long will also work) to push this arm toward the outside of the wheel, then use the spoon to turn the adjusting wheel "down" until you can turn the tire easily. (In this video, you can see the auto-adjuster arm that you push away from the star wheel <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bnc3VnQ8kUY&amp;feature=endscreen&amp;NR=1 " target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bnc3...endscreen&amp;NR=1</a>) You will still hear some brake shoe dragging, but that's normal. Remember the number of "down" strokes you made to the adjuster, and do the same number on the other side. This way, both sets of brakes are the same distance from the brake drum, and will apply with same pressure. <br /><br />
<br /><br />
Most folks simply turn the adjusting wheel until the brake shoes begin to drag, listening &amp; trying to get the same "sound" from both sides.<br />
<br />
If that works for you, it's an acceptable way also.

<br /><br />
<br /><br />
I ride in Houston traffic, many times on wet roads, so I have used my method to insure both rear brakes engage with the same pressure, at the same time, kinda keeps my sliding straighter. <img src="images/smilies/grin.gif" border="0" alt="" title="big grin" class="inlineimg" /> And yes, I can lock up the rear wheels.<br /><br />
<br /><br />
Good luck which ever way you decide.

[Judge Judy]

Thanks for the video. It helped a great deal. I'm trying to adjust the breaks without taking the entire wheel apart and having to take the drum off, but your method seems to result in a more balanced braking system. Hmmm... May try the "listening method" first, then your method if I am not happy with the results. Thanks again for the reply.

[engprosinc]

Any "estimate" of the total miles before the rear brake shoes need to be replaced on a 05 HD Ultra and Lehman conversion?

[87Trike1200]

I realize this is for a different model than you have, but HERE is a service manual written by one of our members for Motor Trike Service. It includes a section on Drum Brakes and other items that MAY be similar to your trike and MAY be of some help. Hope it is helpful.

* Edit - Whoops, didn't realize this was an "old" thread just recently brought to life with a different question. Too bad we can't "Delete" our own posts within minutes of realizing you goofed.