Shifter modification?

rmrc51

Lost In The 50's
Feb 2, 2009
4,178
125
Palmyra, Virginia
Has anyone ever come up with a way to modify the stock shifter so it's larger and easier to get your foot under?

I currently have the Kury Heel-Toe shifter. But due to an old hip injury, pressing with my heel at times causes a painful cramp in my hip. When I had my Valkyrie, I had replaced the Valks shifter with one that came from an older Honda model which I think was a CBR 1000. It made a world of difference with the Valkyrie. Is there something similar for the GL1800?
 
I can feel for you trying to get your foot under the shifter as I have size 15 dogs and I dont like how Honda positioned it. What worked for me was replacing the stock pegs with Ergo II pegs and they moved my foot position almost an inch back putting the shifter close to the toe. But unfortunately this is without the floorboards. Also Ilium makes a shifter extension that extends the length of the part of the shifter that goes over your boot at least another inch. Its made for BMWs but supposedly it slides over the rubber part so I wonder if it would fit over the stock rubber of a wing.
 
The shifter on a 1500 rides a splined shaft. You can remove the M6 bolt, pry the shifter off the shaft and rotate for more room and just put the bolt back and tighten. I am not 100 percent sure about an 1800 but I think it will work the same way. If the part that contacts your toe doesn't extend out far enough, buy a piece of metal tubing and place it over the shifter after taking off the rubber and get it tack welded on. Unless you get the tube way to thick, you should be able to replace the rubber.
 
Rich:

This one is to easy.

I'm fairly sure your "knobbie thingies" are threaded. Unscrew them, put in a longer bolt and a stack of stainless washers.

If your "knobbie thingies" are riveted to the arm, grind the rivet off the back side of the arm, counter drill out the rivet and get the same diameter or a couple mm larger stainless round head allen key bolt, and again stack some stainless washers.

If you know someone in a machine shop, you can have all new "knobbie thingies" made from stainless. They can be course knurled all the way, like the dreaded H-Ds have on many, or if you want to stick to the rubber rings, the machinist can just cut one or two extra lands, and you can buy some extra rubber rings from Kury, and you're all set.

This is an all to easy problem to solve.

I'm fairly sure my heal toe shifter is an "Add On" brand (I got with the trike) and it has two sets of holes forward and three sets of holes back, so the "knobbie thingies" can be set at 5 different distances. I used some cadmium plated grade 8 hex bolts, and made my "knobbie thingies" 1/2" longer, and it makes shifting a real dream. But I could have extended them an 1" if I wanted to.

I know Kury sells extenders for the back "knobbie thingies" so if you wear a size 15 shoe, you can still put your foot down on the floor board, without accidentally shifting gears. I was going to have Kury boards put on my trike, but I got one heck of a deal on a almost brand new used pair when I bought my trike.

Rich, check for PM.

Bill
 
I was watching the video and it seems that they're not using the clutch when shifting gears. In my mind's eye, I'd think that would eventually cause problems. :AGGHH:
I don't always use a clutch but I do throttle down somewhat to equalize the the speeds and pressures inside of the trans.
 
I don't always use a clutch but I do throttle down somewhat to equalize the the speeds and pressures inside of the trans.

Regarding the Kliktronic and/or the Pingel unit. Do either of these manufactures mention how or if the clutch should be used??? :Shrug:

(Not using the clutch just seems like you're asking for trouble sooner or later!)
 
Good Morning, "Wheels" gets on here sometimes but if you really want to know about elec. shifters go to the 1800 boards and ask him about them. He has to use an elec. shifter and can answer any of your questions. I have riden his trike and know you shift with your left thumb ( button for up and button for down ) just as you pull the clutch lever, pretty slick setup. Charley
 
Regarding the Kliktronic and/or the Pingel unit. Do either of these manufactures mention how or if the clutch should be used??? :Shrug:

(Not using the clutch just seems like you're asking for trouble sooner or later!)
On the Pingel site, it says that the clutch need only be used to stop and take off. The unit comes with some kind of ignition interrupter that basically shuts down the engine ignition at the moment of shifting...I believe that the Kliktronic system basically works the same way. Whether or not this is harmful, I have no idea. I hardly ever shift without using the clutch (I figure they supplied one, I should use it), but I know plenty of riders do. Whether or not a mechanical-electrical devise would be a smoother shift, (because it would eliminate the human factor),... for me the jury is still out on that issue. I suppose you could always use the clutch if you wanted to. For me it`s not a big deal anyway, as I can`t afford either unit ...yet. I just wanted to let you all know that there was a cheaper option than the Kliktronic.
 
Thanks for the additional info Chumbly.

At present, I'm going to seriously look into the Pingel shifter. And I have all intentions of using the clutch when shifting gears just to play safe. There's nothing wrong with my left hand so the way I figure it, why would I want to take a chance and shift without using the clutch. I'm still interested in the mechanics and concept regarding the interruption of the ignition coils and how that helps when shifting without a clutch, just for knowledge sake.
 
Thanks for the additional info Chumbly.

At present, I'm going to seriously look into the Pingel shifter. And I have all intentions of using the clutch when shifting gears just to play safe. There's nothing wrong with my left hand so the way I figure it, why would I want to take a chance and shift without using the clutch. I'm still interested in the mechanics and concept regarding the interruption of the ignition coils and how that helps when shifting without a clutch, just for knowledge sake.

Killing the Ignition or interrupting the fueling is very common practice and is pretty much used universally in racing be it 2 or 4 wheel. It is also well accepted that clutchless shifts subjects the gearbox to far less stress on up shifts vrs using the clutch.
 
Killing the Ignition or interrupting the fueling is very common practice and is pretty much used universally in racing be it 2 or 4 wheel. It is also well accepted that clutchless shifts subjects the gearbox to far less stress on up shifts vrs using the clutch.

Now that's very interesting! Thanks for the information! ThumbUp
 

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