Agree with everybody that mentioned blipping the throttle a little works every time. Have done it that way for years.
Also installed the Clutch Wiz and a SE clutch disk which things a lot better.
o~\o
Agree with everybody that mentioned blipping the throttle a little works every time. Have done it that way for years.
Also installed the Clutch Wiz and a SE clutch disk which things a lot better.
o~\o
"Anybody can become an American but ya have to be born a TEXAN"
"Ya know I haven't been everywhere but it's on my bucket list"
2010 Tri have never had any problem finding neutral from day one to 38000 miles. It's all in the adjustment.
ttom, wife and triglide:clan:
Did the Clutch-Wiz too. Made it easier to pull the lever, but did nothing for finding neutral.
I adjust all my cables and even had dealer adjust clutch cable on all my Harleys - never helped on any. Maybe I was just one of the unlucky owners that had all bad Harleys when it came to adjusting clutches.
I'll just keep clicking into neutral as I slow down.
Just adjust the clutch cable a turn or two. Finding neutral was horrible before I adjusted the cable. Also you can run the rpm up to about 1500 and hold it there and it will "fall" right into neutral for you. It doesn't sound as cool as blipping the throttle, but it works pretty good.
I use the heel shifter to find neutral. I find it easier to push down on the heel shifter than push up with the toe shifter when I am about to stop and in 1st gear. It works for me.
14K miles on a 2012 TriGlide still having issues finding neutral while at a dead stop. Stealer and I both changed trans and clutch fluid, adjusted clutch, etc. Problem remains. If I ease it into neutral while the trike is still moving ever so slowly, no problem. If I come to a complete stop - no go. Easy to find it with the engine off. On all my other 2-wheel Harleys, this is never an an issue. I've tried to use the same trans and clutch products on the Trike as I do in the 2-wheels Harleys, still can't fix the Trike problem. Adjusting clutch has always worked on my 2-wheel H-Ds to fix this issue, not so on the Trike. I'm learning to live with the issue.
Have had same issue since taking delivery in Oct 2013. Tried everything mentioned here except Easy-clutch. Finally got fed up and wrote letter to MoCo, they could care less! Went back to stealer, tech admitted this is a problem with the TriGlide! OMG, can't believe he said it out loud. They set about adjusting clutch. They removed primary case and removed clutch pac. Tech called me and wanted to know who installed SE clutch kit. I had no idea that was there when i bought the trike and the stealer didn't mention it. Tech claims that is probably the reason I'm having problems with neutral. However, after they finished the adjustment, $300, bike shifts like warm butter and neutral is there very time. Tech said not to be surprised if I'm back in 3,000 miles for another $300 adjustment. That is crap! $35K for machine that won't hold clutch adjustment. My 1999 FLHR has had the same SE clutch for over 10 years without a single adjustment except after the first 500 miles.
About two minutes after posting this the first time today, got a call from the MoCo! They are interested and will contact the stealer's service tech and document issue in their computers.
http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/...pswnuweejq.jpg
Red Ultra Powered By Head-Quarters 120, Easy Clutch Pull By ClutchWIZ. 2012 GL1800 Hannigan. I've yet to ride a stock Harley which wasn't in need of a mechanical intervention.
2012 Tri-Glide, DK's Lift Brackets, 416 Progressive shocks, S&S Power Tune Duals Header, V&H Monster Rounds , HD Ventelator AC, FCS Fans, Tank raised 2", Dual Halogen Headlight, L.R.S 10" Tinted Windshield, Hammock Seat, Tourpak 1"raise & 2" back & Light conversion, PV w/Target Tune, Bagger Bar, Harley 2" pullback bars, Running AmsOil in all Boxes.
Yes, and I have an 05 Ultra with the Lehman conversion. It was like that when I bought it (used) and the original owner had the same problem. Changing to different weight lubes had no effect.
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Are you talking about making the adjustment to the nuts in the clutch pack or at the adjustment the cable?
its all in the adjustment. If you adjust the clutch pack first as directed in the manual. Remember the cable should be loose first. I adjust the pack on the tight side they say back it off 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn after bottoming the adjusting screw till it touches the pack. I only turn back the 1/2 turn. Then I adjust the cable as directed but again on the tight side. You have to pull on the outer cable housing at the lever to make sure you only get the 1/8 inch gap. I make it a tight 1/8. Clutch works great shifts into neutral with ease. Take your time and do it right it should work fine. Most of the time it is hard to find neutral is because the clutch is not completely dis-engaging. Be care to tight and the clutch will slip.
Stallion #406 // 2013 Tri-Glide
In addition to what I posted earlier in this thread regarding finding neutral, if you're stopped with the clutch released and the engine not running roll the bike forward and backward to find the middle ground half way between each gear and you should be able to easily shift the transmission either direction. Be careful not to over shot the shifter.
Phu Cat
All I do when in first is to' tap [lightly] on the heal shifter...With my heal...
Work's every time once you get the hang of it !!.
Sometimes a Cigar is Just a Cigar.....
2019 Tri-Glide.......
Cavie, Same "Harley clunk" into first gear too
Do you pull in the clutch and blip the throttle a time or two after first starting your bike ? Most times that will free up those sticky clutch plates that have been sitting in an oil bath and let your tranny slip into first almost silently. Worked on my Kaw.
Phu Cat