Time to replace drive belt.

[kimber45]

Due to picking up something on the road I now have to replace the belt. I'll let you know how it goes.

[trikermutha]

Curious - Was it a hole in the belt or something else??

[turboman1354]

One of the main reasons I went with a gold wing instead of another Harley nightmare job

[GoSlo]

One of the main reasons I went with a gold wing instead of another Harley nightmare job

Must be nice to own something that NEVER breaks, NEVER wears out, NEVER has any problems whatsoever, and allows you to go onto the Harley area offering nothing useful other than snide comments like that. I bet GW's never run out of gas either.

[arnie]

hey kimber,i had pea gravel go thru the center of my belt on my r/k right after i bought it.I took it back to the dealer & they told me since it went thru the middle & didn't damage the edges i would be fine.I have 58,000 miles on it & still the same belt.Not knowing your damage,you might want to ask about that.good luck

[kimber45]

My belt has a cut thru the drive lugs all around the belt plus a four inch chunk out of it. The chunk is thru the lugs and about half the width of the belt. The throttle on my trike sticks wide open at times and I'm afraid it will break in one of those sticky moments!

[americanbadass]

Sorry to hear you have a belt problem. That is an expensive repair

[trikermutha]

Man sticking throttle too..I would not drive it untill that issue was resolved also..

[Bill Reber]

Must be nice to own something that NEVER breaks, NEVER wears out, NEVER has any problems whatsoever, and allows you to go onto the Harley area offering nothing useful other than snide comments like that. I bet GW's never run out of gas either.

It sounds as if that one struck a nerve , if it helps any Goldwings do break down from time to time. As far as running out of gas they do that the very same way all bikes do unless you have a very long hose LOL

[GoSlo]

The vast majority of the responses to people posting about problems on this site are helpful and informative, or they want more information so they can learn. This one didn't fit into any of those area, so figured I'd point that out. Probably should have left it alone.

Now I do have a question since I've never had this problem happen to me....yet. ABA - why is this such an expensive repair? Guess I don't know what all's involved with changing out the belt.

[trikermutha]

BAsically its labor expensive. The back end has to come off and the primary etc.
So thats were it gets pricey..

[FLTR2008TRIKE]

If it can be done at home you can save money. I did my own belt change when I found two teeth segments missing in my drive belt. It is without a doubt a laborious process to swap it out. The rear axle doesnt have to come completely out from under the rear frame.

[GoSlo]

OK, thanks for the explanation. I figured it might be mostly labor costs, but didn't know for sure.

[pcombe]

My belt has a cut thru the drive lugs all around the belt plus a four inch chunk out of it. The chunk is thru the lugs and about half the width of the belt. The throttle on my trike sticks wide open at times and I'm afraid it will break in one of those sticky moments!

If you are mecanically inclined and have lots of time i could try to talk you through the process. Understand that unless you have thre proper special tools you would have to make tools that would work.
My dealer was kind enough to lend me some of their shop tools.
The outer primary would have to come off.
you will need a 1-7/8 socket to remove the compensator. It has around 120 ft,lbs. of torque on it. Once it is removed the stator cover can be removed, It is magnetic and may frustrate you but will come off. Then you can remove the stator itself after removing gears and chain.
The drive cluth is going to require a deep,deep socket. You my have to make one. It has around 100 lbs. of torque. you will need to either make a bar out of 1/4 inch. stock to set between the cluth and comensator sprockets to prevent the gear from rotating so you can remove and reinstall it. make sure the ends are tapered. look at one before you make it! ( you can break teeth off the gear by being carless about that tool design)
Another way is to make a stair like tool out of a thick hard plastic.
Once the gears are loosened and you can get at the primary chain (having gotten the chain tensioner out of the way) you must remove the cluth and compensatoe gears as a unit, (keep it together that way so that you can put back together as unit).

Pay attention to the cluth plates and spacers. there are 6 of one and seven of the other and have to go back the same way.
Pull the starter shaft out of the case ( there is a coupler at the end of that shaft that marries it to your starter,
Remve the inner cover. ( they have lock tabs on the bolts. There is one or two bolts going into cover from the back. And you will probably have to remove the starter bolts.

Once you can get at the belt cut off the old one. You will have to drop
At least one side of the swing arm to work the new belt on if your luckey.
If not get jacks under the swing arm were the bolt shaft goes through so the back of you engine dosent drop down and support the trike body and pull the bolt. ( expect your shocks and exhaust to be in the way) ( never twist the new belt very far or clamp or squeeze the ends together to tight to avoid damaging a new $200.00 belt).
After you get the new belt on you must be carefull about making sure the rear drive pulley and front drive pulley are alighned. one way to do that is to measure from the center of the swing arm bolt to a certain spot on your axles. make sure it s the same on each side. visually look at the alighnment also.
Go back togther with silicone on all the inner seals, Blue lock tight on all bolts and red lock tight on the clutch and compensator bolts and nuts,
Most torque wrenches dont work in reverse. The compensator is a right hand thread and the clutch is left hand thread,
If you have air or power tools that you can adjust the torque your world become much simpler.

You may search the internet there are videos that show people in perfect conditions making the job look ( oh- so- simple) just to make you look and feel like an idiot, but you will see a whole lot to take the scarry out of the job.
I wouldn't be supprised to see a $1000.00 bill go to the dealer to do the job.
You could probably estimate two mechanics at the shop 8 hrs. for the job.
Good luck!
Been there done that, got the scarred knuckles to prove it.
Paul combe

[trikermutha]

I am pulling my primary now and found out the inner primary has to come off before I can remove the stator rotor. Also I left my clutch assembly together. Came out as one assembly. This is my first time taking off these parts on the newer Harleys. I am use to the older style with the sorter primary cover bolts. Noticed they have now Long bolts that go all the way threw to the inner primary from the outer primary.
Lots of new things to learn...

[pcombe]

I am pulling my primary now and found out the inner primary has to come off before I can remove the stator rotor. Also I left my clutch assembly together. Came out as one assembly. This is my first time taking off these parts on the newer Harleys. I am use to the older style with the sorter primary cover bolts. Noticed they have now Long bolts that go all the way threw to the inner primary from the outer primary.
Lots of new things to learn...

Dear trikermutha:
I am old shcool myself. The newest bike i have is 24 yrs old.
The long bolts are a new one on me too.
I am picturing in my mind the stator cover that is about 6 inches in diameter,
I cant see how you can remove the inner primary cover without removing the stator cover and stator. under that cover you will find the stator which is magnetic. there should be 3 small screws holding your stator in place. the cover may frustrate you but it does slip over the windings on the stator. (it may not feel like it wants to come off)
Take a look at where the wires come through the case. it should tell you what side of the primary its on. when you remove the stator you will have to push the wires through the case to remove the stator and there for your inner primary cover.
(use a little silicon on reassembly to prevent leaks)
Im not saying for sure the inner primary has to be removed first, but thats an alegin concept to me!
The importance of keeping the comensator and cluth assemblies together is to keep the direction of travel on your primary chain the same as it was,
There is a timing mark on the clutch hub and beleive it or not if you install them in a unit they will almost fall back together. clutch adjustment when you get done is simple.
loosen the lock nut run the small center screw in to where its finger tight, back it off one half turn and tighten lock nut, take the slack up with the cable adjuster until you have 1/4 inch play at your clutch lever.
I hope i have helped.
Paul

[msocko3]

You may search the internet there are videos that show people in perfect conditions making the job look ( oh- so- simple) just to make you look and feel like an idiot, but you will see a whole lot to take the scarry out of the job.
I wouldn't be supprised to see a $1000.00 bill go to the dealer to do the job.
You could probably estimate two mechanics at the shop 8 hrs. for the job.
Good luck!
Been there done that, got the scarred knuckles to prove it.
Paul combe

Its a little more complicated to perform this task on a Triglide, without getting the book out I beileve the rear differential has to come out. Also as trikermutha said the clutch plates don't have to come out of the clutch basket, the compensator bolt is a lot tighter than 120 ft/lbs. If the OP is decides to tackle the project him self he would be best served to buy the service manual and trike supliment before he starts.

[msocko3]

Dear trikermutha:
I am old shcool myself. The newest bike i have is 24 yrs old.
The long bolts are a new one on me too.
I am picturing in my mind the stator cover that is about 6 inches in diameter,
I cant see how you can remove the inner primary cover without removing the stator cover and stator. under that cover you will find the stator which is magnetic. there should be 3 small screws holding your stator in place. the cover may frustrate you but it does slip over the windings on the stator. (it may not feel like it wants to come off)
Take a look at where the wires come through the case. it should tell you what side of the primary its on. when you remove the stator you will have to push the wires through the case to remove the stator and there for your inner primary cover.
(use a little silicon on reassembly to prevent leaks)
Im not saying for sure the inner primary has to be removed first, but thats an alegin concept to me!
Paul

The inner primary will come off without pulling the stator cover, there is no need to remove the stator unless your replacing a bad stator. You can see the stator cover still in place with the inner primary removed in this picture.

[kimber45]

Its a little more complicated to perform this task on a Triglide, without getting the book out I beileve the rear differential has to come out. Also as trikermutha said the clutch plates don't have to come out of the clutch basket, the compensator bolt is a lot tighter than 120 ft/lbs. If the OP is decides to tackle the project him self he would be best served to buy the service manual and trike supliment before he starts.

Mike is correct, you have to have all manuals. It takes two people that are mechanicaly inclined. Most dealers have not performed this job. I feel better about doing it myself than having one of Harleys finest do it. We got the new belt on it last night. We plan on getting the rear buttoned up and aligned tonight. I'll update you tomorrow.

[trikermutha]

Yes I agree but have to replace the stator as the plug is leaking. I was hoping not to have to pull the inner primary off. But the stator rotor hits the inner primary towards the front on it I found out. Plus I got creative and used a 90 deg snap ring plier that can be used as a stator rotor puller.