Bad Harley day!

Aug 21, 2011
769
1
Lake Murray, SC
Well took the trike (05 Ultra Classic/Lehman 33,000 miles) in today to check battery and change the transmission oil and primary chain case oil. The battery ($186) is 15 months old and they say I need to replace it! Drained the transmission oil and it had steel and aluminum in it (bunch), wtf! They of Course can't tell whats going on unless they go into it. Less than 4000 miles since last change and at that time the transmission oil looked like new. They said it may be the Champion reverse. I guess that would be better than the transmission. Most of the time when I need to use the reverse I will put it in first then neutral then reverse to get a smooth shift but some times it is a very harsh shift. Any ideas on how to shift this reverse? I was changing to Redline transmission oil. I told them to flush it and put Red Line in and lets see how it does. It was running fine when I got there and when I left.
 
You know there was a large piece on the magnet and I was so upset I hardly looked at it! My dumb ass! They said I should use reverse sparingly but I checked it out and it is smooth as can be. All gears seem fine. I think it came from the harsh shift (into reverse) I get from time to time. Is anyone using the super mag drain plugs? Sounds good I just hope it isn't closing the barn door after the cow has gotten out, but at least try to keep the rest of the cows in. I think I will run it for a few hundred miles and drain it again to see.
 
I have the Champion reverse and this is what I do:

Place the bike in first gear, then while still in first, shift into reverse. This way there is no spin in the tranny gears. Shift from first to neutral, confirm the neutral light is on, gently ease out on the clutch to further confirm neutral on the foot shift and only reverse is engauged. This method eliminates all clunk when going into reverse. So far, it is the gentlest method of going into reverse I have found.

Just my $.02.

Ride safe.
 
I have the Champion reverse and this is what I do:

Place the bike in first gear, then while still in first, shift into reverse. This way there is no spin in the tranny gears. Shift from first to neutral, confirm the neutral light is on, gently ease out on the clutch to further confirm neutral on the foot shift and only reverse is engauged. This method eliminates all clunk when going into reverse. So far, it is the gentlest method of going into reverse I have found.

Just my $.02.

Ride safe.

+1 for above
 
Drained the transmission oil and it had steel and aluminum in it (bunch), wtf! They of Course can't tell whats going on unless they go into it. Less than 4000 miles since last change and at that time the transmission oil looked like new. They said it may be the Champion reverse.
Do you have some sort of easy clutch? If so, check through the transmission fill hole with a flashlight and look at the right most Champion bearing nut for wear and groves. Chance you have the same problem I have.
 
Thanks everyone.
Smitty what is your problem?
flynng what I do most of the time but get in a hurry every now and then. Shift into first and let the clutch out just a bit (don't move forward) then go to neutral and then reveres and no clunk most of the time. But as I say I don't do this all the time but will from now on. I think I will go with the strong magnetic plugs, would like to hear from some more people that use them.
 
Thanks everyone.
Smitty what is your problem?

Look at the post Transmission Problem?? My Burley White Brothers lite clutch was causing the clutch cable coupling to drag on the rightmost bearing nut for the reverse gear. Really mucked it up good in there. I found out yesterday that you can look at that special nut (looks like a washer from the front) through the transmission fill hole using a penlight flashlight. If it's nice and smooth, you don't have that problem, but if grooved and worn, same problem.
 
Hey Smitty, I have the same Burley lite clutch.When I installed it I had to grind down part of the bracket so it would swivel. Did you have to do the same thing? I better look down the fill hole to make sure mine is ok. I installed the CW also but it was slipping. I'm wondering if the Burley was working against the Clucth Wiz. I took out the CW but will try it again when I get a chance to mess with it. The Burley made a hell of a difference alone. Jim
 
Hey Smitty, I have the same Burley lite clutch.When I installed it I had to grind down part of the bracket so it would swivel. Did you have to do the same thing?

No, I didn't have to, but it was darn close. A little jiggling and a bit of force got it to swivel. (I am assuming you mean you had to grind the curved end of the sort of "L" shaped bracket that is bolted to the little fitting that the cable coupling fits in.)
 
Update... As I said in an earlier post I was so POed I didn't look at the magnetic plug closely. I thought there was one large piece and some smaller stuff. I went back to the Harley shop and talked to the Tech and he said there was no large piece but 5 or 6 smaller pieces and some very small stuff. This makes me feel better. I did order 3 of the Super Magnetic Plugs today, will install them when I do the next lub. I will do the next one myself, was in a hurry this time. Thanks to all that helped.
 

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