I have about 7,000 miles on my 2012 Tri Glide and already need new rear brake pads.
Is this normal? Seems like a terribly short brake pad life to me.
I have about 7,000 miles on my 2012 Tri Glide and already need new rear brake pads.
Is this normal? Seems like a terribly short brake pad life to me.
Yes..some get more some get less..Not sure if you are going to replace them yourself.
but make sure you lube up the bushing/spacers as I have found them sticking when I have done mine in the past..Try EBC or lyndall for new pads..
Have 37,800 on Triglide. Have changed rear brake pads three times and front twice.
Rod69 Illinois TOI #900
Joan71 Illinois TOI #901
The rear brakes wear out quickly if you don't keep the parking brake adjusted properly.
http://imageshack.us/a/img155/9918/trigld1.jpg
2009 Triglide - Wood TW555 Cams, Suspension Lift By TglideStuff, Butter Smooth Clutch Pull by ClutchWIZ.
I found that if the parking brake was adjusted correctly I would need rear pads every 7000 miles. So I unadjusted them and put lyndalls on, have 10000 on this set and they still look new. If I need the parking brake I just use a leather strap I carry and tie it around the front brake lever. Seems to work fine for me.
Bill & Sherry
1977-1986 United States Navy
I have an 05 Lehman conversion with drum brakes on the rear, and 20K on the clock. The rear shoes will have to be replaced later in the season. I am surprised that the shoes have worn so much, but as the second owner, I am not sure how much braking the previous owner had to do, and how fast he would ride. I know he rode two up. Given the choice, I would rather change disc pads than drum brake shoes any day, so I guess you are lucky.
here a look at the rear pad
I removed my parking brake the first year I owned it. I like you will use a Velcro strap wrapped around the front brake lever. I very seldom have to strap the front brake. I also went to Lyndall front and rear. I still have my 2 wheel braking habit where I use the front %80 and the rear %20.
http://imageshack.us/a/img155/9918/trigld1.jpg
2009 Triglide - Wood TW555 Cams, Suspension Lift By TglideStuff, Butter Smooth Clutch Pull by ClutchWIZ.
Just remove that worthless parking brake. Then you never have to deal with it and the side effects it causes ever again.
2011 Cool Blue TriGlide with full stage 4, a lotta other upgrades, and a lotta shiny stuff.
Hi..My name is Trent and I am a Chromaholic.
Depending on the type of riding, freeway vs city and how hard you apply the brakes is going to play on how often you need brake pads. At the beginning of this riding season my dad had 37,000+ miles on his 09, in those miles he has only put 2 sets of rear brakes on and 1 set of fronts. The original rears still had life left on the pads when we changed them as did the original fronts. We changed both sets in favor of the Lyndal gold pads. His riding is a mix of city and freeway, he isn't a big rear brake peddle user, doesn't have a parking brake, well he does but it resides in the garage attic, and most of his stopping he knows ahead of time so he doesn't have to use a bunch of brake to stop.
Both of us use brakes pretty much the same, I have Lyndal front & rear pads on my 06 Ultra which have 27,000 miles on them and when I inspected them this winter I can put another 27,000 on them with ease.
http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/...pswnuweejq.jpg
Red Ultra Powered By Head-Quarters 120, Easy Clutch Pull By ClutchWIZ. 2012 GL1800 Hannigan. I've yet to ride a stock Harley which wasn't in need of a mechanical intervention.
My rear brakes on '10 TG were fast wearing also...until, HD replaced the whole parking brake mechanism. Installed home on LI, then correctly adjusted behind wheel by Tucson HD when in there for other things.
2009 Tri Glide,Vance Hines intake,Fuelpak and Oval exhaust-(1.25 lift, tourpak relocation, and ClutchWiz THX Dennis)-Mustang seat, chrome wheels, Barnett +1 clutch, AIM 480 LB spring, Hayden tensioner, LED headlight & spots, BRIGHTASS led tail lights
how do I get the pistons to back in on the rear calipers, pressure doesn't do it and there doesn't appear to be a place to screw the pistons back in the caliper. all help will be appreciated
Once you remove the caliper and parking brake bracket- turn the shaft that is has notches out all the way then push the caliper pistons back in. If you do not turn the notched shaft the pistons will not retract..
You will have to readjust the parking brake per the manual or remove the parking brake as some have done.
that did the trick thanks for all the help
My new trike is coming next month is the parking brake no good to use
Just the fact that many have left the brake on & rode the trike for a while before they realized it. Results in wearing out the pads fast ! Causes glazing of the pads that aren't large enough anyway, so there is a high loss of rear braking in the rear.
Sometimes the brake isn't released all the way & the pads are held against the rotor without much pressure, but causes the same problems.
Many have just eliminated the park brake, & the worry it causes.
A wrap type of Velcro works fine & you can store it on the handlebars. To use just pull back the front brake lever, & Velcro in place. Along with the first gear engagement it will hold great.
2012 Tri-Glide, DK's Lift Brackets, 416 Progressive shocks, S&S Power Tune Duals Header, V&H Monster Rounds , HD Ventelator AC, FCS Fans, Tank raised 2", Dual Halogen Headlight, L.R.S 10" Tinted Windshield, Hammock Seat, Tourpak 1"raise & 2" back & Light conversion, PV w/Target Tune, Bagger Bar, Harley 2" pullback bars, Running AmsOil in all Boxes.
Thanks mate for the info so no light on the park brake to let you know it is on?