Brakes Front and Rear

[Roadbuz]

I concur and with my limited overall knowledge of this particular frontend, I can only speculate the most obvious.

As I have only seen pictures of the bolt, to me, there are only two possibilities. The nut may not have been secured

properly or something else started the shimmy which, in turn exacerbated the stripping of the bolt. All opinions

heartily welcomed.

[tomg]

I concur and with my limited overall knowledge of this particular frontend, I can only speculate the most obvious.

As I have only seen pictures of the bolt, to me, there are only two possibilities. The nut may not have been secured

properly or something else started the shimmy which, in turn exacerbated the stripping of the bolt. All opinions

heartily welcomed.

Don't you think you can clean up the existing bolt and retread it the next size smaller? Just don't thread it onto the smooth surface where the hiem joint sets. Just a thought. Don'the forget to use a nylock nut.
Tomg

[Gorilla]

I agree with Tom there really is no in out pressure. The pressure is back and forth.

[Roadbuz]

GREAT IDEA GUYS.....

Sometimes one can't see the forest for trees.

I have a question...Is the main purpose of the hem bars , to keep the wheel aligned ?

By the way, as soon as my mechanic is available, I will have him use my die on that bolt and rethread it a smaller

size and hope that solves the shimmy. It's odd that it only when the brakes are lightly applied as one does when

they are slowing for a red light. It does not shimmy in a panic stop or when it is simply driving down the road.

Thanks guys for the advice, once again. Will keep all advised.

[Ed Hobgood]

I only know of one way a bolt can get stripped like that(cross thread). I agree with retapping the bolt to the next smaller size.

[trikervet]

GREAT IDEA GUYS.....

Sometimes one can't see the forest for trees.

I have a question...Is the main purpose of the hem bars , to keep the wheel aligned ?

By the way, as soon as my mechanic is available, I will have him use my die on that bolt and rethread it a smaller

size and hope that solves the shimmy. It's odd that it only when the brakes are lightly applied as one does when

they are slowing for a red light. It does not shimmy in a panic stop or when it is simply driving down the road.

Thanks guys for the advice, once again. Will keep all advised.

The one and only purpose for those bars is to secure that bracket which the brake calipers are mounted. You disconnect that bar and as soon as you apply

the brakes the caliper is going to go round and round with the brake disc until it breaks the brake line. One of those joints broke recently with another rider and it did break the line. There was a thread here two or three months ago about the whole episode.

[Ed Hobgood]

Yep! Happened to me when I was out on the road in Nashville, TN I was lucky that I wasn't going very fast when it happened.

[tomg]

GREAT IDEA GUYS.....

Sometimes one can't see the forest for trees.

I have a question...Is the main purpose of the hem bars , to keep the wheel aligned ?

By the way, as soon as my mechanic is available, I will have him use my die on that bolt and rethread it a smaller

size and hope that solves the shimmy. It's odd that it only when the brakes are lightly applied as one does when

they are slowing for a red light. It does not shimmy in a panic stop or when it is simply driving down the road.

Thanks guys for the advice, once again. Will keep all advised.

My hiem joints are adjusted in just about as far as possible. I don't see any advantage of any further out adjustments.

Tomg

[Roadbuz]

Thanks for the input guys, as always...

Glad you didn't crash your trike, Ed and that all worked out ok for you..

I guess I'm still a little confused about these hem joints though...

Tom, you said you had them as far out as they could go ??

Can I get to the basics of these bars please...

The bar has two "joints" at the end of each bar, two nuts on each end, one adjuster (to shorten or lengthen bar)

and one jam nut, which obviously locks the adjustment.

1) Should the bars on either side mirror one another ?

2) If these bars are merely to keep the calipers from rotating, why are there adjustments on the bars ?

3) Is the idea to keep the bars parallel to the ground ?

4) Does anyone have the torque specs on the associated nuts ?

5) When should one change the brake fluid and with the location of the reservoir, has anyone found the easiest

way to fill it?

6) Apparently, the closest replacement pads are from the rear brakes of a Toyota FJ, the rotors can only be

acquired from Texas....what about the calipers?

P.S. A special thanks to those of you inquiring the reason for me being "laid-up in bed" and your prayers.

This is a site with some awesome people !!

[tomg]

Thanks for the input guys, as always...

Glad you didn't crash your trike, Ed and that all worked out ok for you.

I guess I'm still a little confused about these hem joints though...

Tom, you said you had them as far out as they could go ??

Can I get to the basics of these bars please...

The bar has two "joints" at the end of each bar, two nuts on each end, one adjuster (to shorten or lengthen bar)

and one jam nut, which obviously locks the adjustment.

1) Should the bars on either side mirror one another ?

2) If these bars are merely to keep the calipers from rotating, why are there adjustments on the bars ?

3) Is the idea to keep the bars parallel to the ground ?

4) Does anyone have the torque specs on the associated nuts ?

5) When should one change the brake fluid and with the location of the reservoir, has anyone found the easiest

way to fill it?

6) Apparently, the closest replacement pads are from the rear brakes of a Toyota FJ, the rotors can only be

acquired from Texas....what about the calipers?

P.S. A special thanks to those of you inquiring the reason for me being "laid-up in bed" and your prayers.

This is a site with some awesome people !!

If I did it was in error, they are adjusted in about as far as possible, only a thread showing.

Tom

[ROAD DOG]

Just a little info on Stallion Brakes. Both TomG and I have replaced back pads. TomG yesterday pad a metal on metal scraping in the rear. Right rear pad completely wore out. Replacement pads FORD 500. NAPA says rotors are from the same application. TomG may jump in here and add what year 500. The rear caliper pistons are a pain to reset. Because they also control the emergency/parking brake the pistons have to be turned in. There is a tool available at auto parts places that looks like a cube with each side having a different pattern of tabs to fit the pistons to turn them in. If you get to the point where TomG is the piston adjuster may have turned out enough that it has come completely out and they are a devil to get back in so you can put new pads in. SUGGESTION change your rear pads every 25K miles.

The front pads are very straight forward. The application I found for them is a TOYOTA 2012 FJ CRUISER. Maybe other application but I know these work. I changed MJ's out at 35K but they really didn't need it. Better safe then sorry though because we were going on the long trip. Guess only maybe 50k wear out of the fronts. Be conservative and change early to save the rotors.

Ted AKA Gorilla

Has any body had to replace the brake proportioning valve ? I looked under mine the other day & found a puddle of brake fluid looks like its coming from the reset pin on the valve ? Looked up 2010 ranger valve & it has antilock brake valves on it ? mine looks like mid 90's ranger valve ? I do not know if it can be rebuilt , it looks new & in good shape ? THANKS

[tomg]

Has any body had to replace the brake proportioning valve ? I looked under mine the other day & found a puddle of brake fluid looks like its coming from the reset pin on the valve ? Looked up 2010 ranger valve & it has antilock brake valves on it ? mine looks like mid 90's ranger valve ? I do not know if it can be rebuilt , it looks new & in good shape ? THANKS

I do believe that most items are off of the 07 Ford ranger and the rear brakes from the 07 Ford 500.
Tomg

[Doc7402]

Just a little info on Stallion Brakes. Both TomG and I have replaced back pads. TomG yesterday pad a metal on metal scraping in the rear. Right rear pad completely wore out. Replacement pads FORD 500. NAPA says rotors are from the same application. TomG may jump in here and add what year 500. The rear caliper pistons are a pain to reset. Because they also control the emergency/parking brake the pistons have to be turned in. There is a tool available at auto parts places that looks like a cube with each side having a different pattern of tabs to fit the pistons to turn them in.




If you get to the point where TomG is the piston adjuster may have turned out enough that it has come completely out and they are a devil to get back in so you can put new pads in.

SUGGESTION change your rear pads every 25K miles.





The front pads are very straight forward. The application I found for them is a TOYOTA 2012 FJ CRUISER. Maybe other application but I know these work. I changed MJ's out at 35K but they really didn't need it. Better safe then sorry though because we were going on the long trip. Guess only maybe 50k wear out of the fronts. Be conservative and change early to save the rotors.





Ted AKA Gorilla

Thanks for the Info , not ready to do it yet due to the miles...

[Roadbuz]

Howdy All,

Sorry I haven't been on here in a great while, but my illnesses have been reeked havoc with my ole body.

I now cannot work on or even drive our trike or anything we own, my wife must do most everything for me.

The usual guy I had working on my trike has been too busy caring for his wife, as she has end stage cancer.

We found another guy who said he could help, but the last thing he did was bleed all the old brake fluid and replace it with DOT3.

After doing, my wife took it for a ride, a few weeks ago and saw, on the dash panel the "E" light lit and immediately came home.

The guy work replaced the brake oil also bleed all the brakes till the new oil came out each nipple, but will not return our phone calls.

We called every Ford dealership around us buy none of them will touch it.

Does anyone have any suggestions ?

Thanks, in advance,

Ron

[trikervet]

Howdy All,

Sorry I haven't been on here in a great while, but my illnesses have been reeked havoc with my ole body.

I now cannot work on or even drive our trike or anything we own, my wife must do most everything for me.

The usual guy I had working on my trike has been too busy caring for his wife, as she has end stage cancer.

We found another guy who said he could help, but the last thing he did was bleed all the old brake fluid and replace it with DOT3.

After doing, my wife took it for a ride, a few weeks ago and saw, on the dash panel the "E" light lit and immediately came home.

The guy work replaced the brake oil also bleed all the brakes till the new oil came out each nipple, but will not return our phone calls.

We called every Ford dealership around us buy none of them will touch it.

Does anyone have any suggestions ?

Thanks, in advance,

Ron

I am curious about the "E" light. I have never seen it, but I would like to know what it means???? Thanks.

[Jack Klarich]

I am curious about the "E" light. I have never seen it, but I would like to know what it means???? Thanks.

Just a guess

Is this an emergency brake light?

Harley trikes have a parking brake light

[Roadbuz]

Dear Friends,

Thanks for the responses everyone. My apologies, the dash light is the (p) or parking light, although my wife has raised and lowered the

parking brake lever several times, but the lite still stays lit. We have never used this brake before. I made an error in my earlier message, I

meant to say, I can't walk without a cane and I am not able to lay under our trike. I can't drive it and riding in it is almost impossible for me.

The only reason I've kept it is because my wife LOVES to drive it and continues to ride it The brake reservoir is behind the rear wheel near

the battery box. Our earlier mechanic replaced the front brakes pads, the axle bearings and repacked the down tubes. He did not replace the

rear brakes as they were almost new. He also bled the old brake fluid until the new DOT3 fluid came out each nipple. We've been thinking of

disconnecting the parking brake cable altogether. In reading all the brake system problems, some have discussed a tab near the rear brakes

that could have bent and the brake proportioning valve. Can anyone shed any info as to where these areas (photos would be wonderful) and

what to check. While I await all those who have been kind enough to respond a new problem has arisen, the cruise control has given up the

ghost.

P.S. If anyone knows of a reliable mechanic, familiar with Stallions near Deltona, Fl., we would be eternally more than thankful.

Sincerely yours,

Ron and Leslie

[Gorilla]

Hey Tom he lives somewhat near you do you know anyone that can help him?

[Roadbuz]

Ted,

Tom has been very helpful to us numerous times in the past, as well as you. Perhaps he is busy or out of town.

Texas not providing us what most every corporation with any repute, namely an in depth manual, has hindered us greatly.

Without the great people here learning basically through "trial and error" and sharing their findings with the rest of us, we all would be much

worse off. For that I am extremely proud to have found all those going out of their way to help, no matter how small.

I will keep plugging away at trying to find a local mechanic or doing what I able to resolve my issues.

Thanks, one and all

Ron

[Jack Klarich]

what to check. While I await all those who have been kind enough to respond a new problem has arisen, the cruise control has given up the

Just a guess here

The cruise control issue could be tied to a brake problem if your brake light switches are not working right the cruise if wired thru the switches ( on most bikes it is or should be) the cruise may not work correctly if not at all

You mentioned earlier about a metering valve

If your bike has this and or any type of as combination valve They have no parts available to repair them

The only valve I know of that one could reset was on American Motors cars

The valve had a plastic pin in the top

You could remove the pin and file a burr from the end to reset it

No other valves I know of can be serviced they need to be replaced

If the valve is bad you may not build the right pressures on either axle

Bleeding the brakes most times does not help

Altering the parking brake may help if the mechanical part of the parking brake is NOT an adjustment via the caliper piston for brake pad clearances

I hope this helps

If it was not so cold here I would ride down and have a look at what you have

This or pictures would be a BIG help in understanding the problem you have

Best of luck on your project