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Thread: Brakes Front and Rear

  1. #1
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    Default Brakes Front and Rear

    Just a little info on Stallion Brakes. Both TomG and I have replaced back pads. TomG yesterday pad a metal on metal scraping in the rear. Right rear pad completely wore out. Replacement pads FORD 500. NAPA says rotors are from the same application. TomG may jump in here and add what year 500. The rear caliper pistons are a pain to reset. Because they also control the emergency/parking brake the pistons have to be turned in. There is a tool available at auto parts places that looks like a cube with each side having a different pattern of tabs to fit the pistons to turn them in.

    If you get to the point where TomG is the piston adjuster may have turned out enough that it has come completely out and they are a devil to get back in so you can put new pads in.

    SUGGESTION change your rear pads every 25K miles.

    The front pads are very straight forward. The application I found for them is a TOYOTA 2012 FJ CRUISER. Maybe other application but I know these work. I changed MJ's out at 35K but they really didn't need it. Better safe then sorry though because we were going on the long trip. Guess only maybe 50k wear out of the fronts. Be conservative and change early to save the rotors.

    Ted AKA Gorilla
    Stallion #406 // 2013 Tri-Glide

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    Default Re: Brakes Front and Rear

    Thanks Ted for the heds up, I am setting at 20,000 now so I will keep an eye on them.

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    Default Re: Brakes Front and Rear

    This part number was posted some time back for the front.

    front -- Wagner ZX606 - - ST06-BR00-0180

    I have at least 50% left at 38K.

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    Default Re: Brakes Front and Rear

    Sorry the rear of the FJ for the front of the Stallion
    Stallion #406 // 2013 Tri-Glide

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    200+ Posts silverdevil's Avatar
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    Default Re: Brakes Front and Rear

    all about the rear brake pads

    http://www.triketalk.com/forum/stall...problems-4152/

    and also the replacement brake pads numbers, front and rear

    http://www.triketalk.com/forum/stall...grinding-3333/ message #4

    recommend you check the rear pads and reverse them(swap inside and outside pad) 15,000 miles.

    another thing you can do to keep the outside pad from wearing out sooooo much faster then the inside pad is to move the emergency brake cable at the rear brake from the post is mounted to to the inside and mount it there. since it is mounted to the outside of the post it is forcing the brake cylinder to the outside and therefor wearing the outside pad much faster.

    I have just shy of 50,000 miles on my Stallion and the front pads are doing fine, lots of pad left and looks like it will last to 100,000 miles.

    rear pads lasted around 30,000 miles, I changed mine out at 32,000 and lost the left rotor thanks to metal to metal cause the outside pad wore out completely.

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    1000+ Posts tomg's Avatar
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    Default Re: Brakes Front and Rear

    I called TMS and was told that the calipers are also on the opposite side as the ford 500--left is on the right and right is on the left. Because of something to do with how TMS worked the emergency brake.

    I was in and out of the ford dealer in less than an hour with pads on both rear installed and a new rotor on the right.

    The reason we could not get the piston to retract is that we were turning it the wrong way!!!

    tomg

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    Default Re: Brakes Front and Rear

    I checked my front pads today (the left side) and they look good as new so I buttoned it back up and gave the trike a bath. I also talked with the people who had the black Stallion at the rally and they had the same problem, with the same side as I did with the brakes ???

    Tomg

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    Default Re: Brakes Front and Rear

    I decides to change the front pads and I am glad I did !! They are nice and quiet compared to what came on it.

    NAPA parts numbers;

    front--TS7487M for a 2012 Toyota FJ Cruiser 4.0 L rear pads

    rear-- TS-7976-X for a 2005 Ford Five Hundred rear pads

    now the front pads That I got had a thin shim on the back side of the pad which had to be popped off in order to fit inside the caliper. Just push on the thin plate. I rode about 150 miles today and very happy with the new pads.

    Front tire does NOT need to be removed, just jacked up to allow the wheel weight to extend the shock that allows more room to remove the caliper. One nut (9/19) and two bolts (on the caliper) and r & r the pads. Quick and easy and don't forget to put a light coating of grease on the bolts for the caliper.

    Tomg

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    Default Re: Brakes Front and Rear

    good job Tom. Big difference on MJ's also, but I also put new bearings grease seals and anti seize on the axle. Better then new.
    Stallion #406 // 2013 Tri-Glide

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    1000+ Posts tomg's Avatar
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    Default Re: Brakes Front and Rear

    Quote Originally Posted by Gorilla View Post
    good job Tom. Big difference on MJ's also, but I also put new bearings grease seals and anti seize on the axle. Better then new.
    Next time you get up here, you can do all that to mine for me, MJ and I can sit back enjoy a cool one and watch you !!!! hahaha

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    Default Re: Brakes Front and Rear

    TomG
    After returning from Eureka Springs, I took my bike to my mechanic for the squeaking noise from right rear. He found the brake caliper was misaligned with the rotor causing it to rub against the inside of the rotor. The design only allowed for approximately .120 thousands of an inch clearance between each side of the caliper mounting bracket and the rotor. He had to machine .100 of the bracket to align it properly. He also had to grind a casting riser on the caliper bracket to make clearance from the rotor inner edge. He put on 2 new ceramic pads and everything is great!
    Jerry126

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    1000+ Posts tomg's Avatar
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    Default Re: Brakes Front and Rear

    Sounds great. When I spoke to TMS the other day, I told them you had the same basic problem I had and he sounded surprised ?? I'd send them an e-mail and see if they will repay you for the work needed seeing you just had all that work done at TMS.

    Tomg

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    Default Re: Brakes Front and Rear

    Hey guys
    I'm new to the Stallion.. Who is TMS?

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    Default Re: Brakes Front and Rear

    Quote Originally Posted by Bhaelle View Post
    Hey guys
    I'm new to the Stallion.. Who is TMS?
    TMS stands for Thoroughbred Motorsports, sister company to Motor Trike.

    Daydreamer

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    Default Re: Brakes Front and Rear

    Are you suppost to hear a kinda rubbing noise when you press the brakes while riding and then they stop is this the powered disc brakes making that rubbing noise and is it anything to worry about? sounds like coming from the front.

    William

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    Default Re: Brakes Front and Rear

    Might check your pads. They should be good for at least 35K. Have 43 on mine, still good.

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    Default Re: Brakes Front and Rear

    William, I have a little rubbing noise too and never had a problem.
    Dean - 480.734.7161
    Tampa, FL
    dean.hauser3@gmail.com
    '09 Stallion #643

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    Lightbulb Re: Brakes Front and Rear

    Hello; tomg, will these brake pads you used fit my 2008 stallion its about time for a change

    NAPA parts numbers;

    front--TS7487M for a 2012 Toyota FJ Cruiser 4.0 L rear pads

    rear-- TS-7976-X for a 2005 Ford Five Hundred rear pads

    thanks William

    - - - Updated - - -

    Ok! thanks stall1803 thats good to hear.

    William

    Quote Originally Posted by Stall1803 View Post
    William, I have a little rubbing noise too and never had a problem.

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    Default Re: Brakes Front and Rear

    William, The brakes are the same on all years of the Stallion so far, Unless the 2013's changed. Ted
    Stallion #406 // 2013 Tri-Glide

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    Default Re: Brakes Front and Rear

    Ok! thanks Ted

    William

    - - - Updated - - -

    Well; it does look like its time to for a brake job, really not looking forward to it, does anyone know how hard it is to change the front pads, I believe I can handle the rear ones.

    Thanks!
    William

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