Are there any electronic techs out there?

Feb 25, 2013
2,949
1,443
casper,wy. usa
:Coffee: :Shrug: My Hiney, is rather chaffed!

Mother Harley in her infinite wisdom no longer produces the fuel guage sending unit to fit my 1989 tour glide part # 75040 and i have had absolutely no luck in obtaining one! I have been trying for two months. I did buy a used one that had the same problem as mine, but thats another story!

It's time to explore different avenues.

The very small wires in the squirrel cage that transmit the signal are broken.
The rest of the sending unit is fine.

You know i'm willing to bet that harley davidson didn't make the half moon shaped wire cage that the sending unit uses to register?
Heck it's probably made in china?

I would almost bet that that same wire cage is used in other applications?

ARE THERE ANY ELECTRONIC TECHS OUT THERE THAT COULD HELP ME OUT ON THIS?

I bet Someone makes that particular little part of that sending unit.
If i could find out who, and figure out a part #, i would have half my problem solved?
:Coffee: Then i would only have the luxury of trying to obtain one little part instead of a whole sending unit?

:Shrug: Any ideas about who i could take that unit to that may be able to take it apart and re-wrap the wires?
 
If it was me? I'd take it to a computer/ TV/ small electronics repair shop.. They specialize in repairing and replacing wires too small for most people to even be able to "address"... Just a thought? Also, what's the "big change" in this one and later models? Based on the part number, the "oldest revision" number online is 75040-88A which says this part was changed in 88, then again in 97... Sooooo, if you could find out what the change way (probably the connector changed, which could be "remedied", you may even be able to go to a newer one?
 
Definitely close up pics of broken wires and area. Never know. It might be repairable. I know I can solder wires on the head of a pin.
 
Pics Speak Thousands of Words as to what may or maynot be needed here.
Soldered & retooling of a part is 1 thing but Coating of Parts or with Special Bondings/ Coating Bc of the Area it is in could be a Total different Story.
 
If it was me? I'd take it to a computer/ TV/ small electronics repair shop.. They specialize in repairing and replacing wires too small for most people to even be able to "address"... Just a thought? Also, what's the "big change" in this one and later models? Based on the part number, the "oldest revision" number online is 75040-88A which says this part was changed in 88, then again in 97... Sooooo, if you could find out what the change way (probably the connector changed, which could be "remedied", you may even be able to go to a newer one?
I had someone disagree with what i am about to tell you, but in this case they are mistaken.
The 75040-88 is the part number for the 1988 model. The 75040-88A was the revised part number for the 1989 model for some reason.
A fuel sending unit from a 1988-1995 will work, The part number changes according to the year of the bike it was put into. such as 75040-88-95.
The way i understand it the sending unit changed in 1996 and leads into fuel injected models, sending units?
 
:Shrug:
I found out that the rheostat is wound with a nickel chromium wire.
Does anyone know what it is coated with?
 
I had someone disagree with what i am about to tell you, but in this case they are mistaken.
The 75040-88 is the part number for the 1988 model. The 75040-88A was the revised part number for the 1989 model for some reason.
A fuel sending unit from a 1988-1995 will work, The part number changes according to the year of the bike it was put into. such as 75040-88-95.
The way i understand it the sending unit changed in 1996 and leads into fuel injected models, sending units?

Did you check with these folks about one Mas Classics - Vintage American Motorcycle Parts - 1140.
 
:Shrug: Here is a copy of the conversation between myself and a wire dealer.
What do you think?

He talks more about a coating holding the wires in place, rather than a special coating for spark arresting?

:Coffee::Shrug:
I have sold nichrome wire to other people that were redoing their fuel guage
sending unit so probably yours uses nichrome, too. You would need to use
exactly the same gauge as the original for it to work properly so you would
need to measure the diameter with a micrometer or calipers. Since I only
sell bare nichrome wire, you would need to make sure that two adjacent coils
don't touch each other so would need to wind it with string between the
coils or some other strand for spacing. The existing one probably has a
coating on at least a portion of the coils to keep them in place and you
would need to do the same and I have no idea what kind of material is used
for the coating. Search the internet for sending unit rebuilding or
something like that and maybe someone mentions how they do it and what they
use for a coating, even though the sending unit they are talking about is
for a totally different vehicle. Good Luck, hope this helps some.

Regards,

Gary Jacobs
Jacobs Online LLC
jacobs-online.biz



-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Combe [mailto:pcombe@bresnan.net]
Sent: Friday, July 5, 2013 3:06 PM
To: sales@jacobs-online.biz
Subject: what is proper wire?

Harley davidson no longer makes the fuel gauge sending unit for my 1989
tour glide motorcycle.

I cannot find a replacement and can't seem to find out who made the
rheostat.
The wires in the rheostat are broken.

I would like to rewire the rheostat on the fuel gauge sending unit on my
old Harley Davidson. What would the proper type of wire be as it sit in a
fuel tank.
Do you know what the size might be by chance?

I have had a terrible time trying to address this problem.

Thank you for your efforts on my behalf.

Paul Combe
 
Not exactly the solution you are looking for, but until you find the fix for the gauge you might go old school.On my 1990 FLHS I ran without a gauge for a bunch of years. Conservative estimate is 40 MPG, times 5 gallons comes out to 200 miles. Set the trip odometer when filling up and start looking for gas when 200 miles comes close. Actual mileage is 44 - 46 mpg, and the full tank is 5.02 gallons, so there is a bit of wiggle room.
Or you could go old school custom and do the old fashion sight glass like the picture.
 
Not exactly the solution you are looking for, but until you find the fix for the gauge you might go old school.On my 1990 FLHS I ran without a gauge for a bunch of years. Conservative estimate is 40 MPG, times 5 gallons comes out to 200 miles. Set the trip odometer when filling up and start looking for gas when 200 miles comes close. Actual mileage is 44 - 46 mpg, and the full tank is 5.02 gallons, so there is a bit of wiggle room.
Or you could go old school custom and do the old fashion sight glass like the picture.
Thanks for your input! suggestions are always welcome.

I guess i just want mine to work!

The bike is 24 yrs. old and the further i fall behind on its functions, The harder it is to make it function.
I guess you just gotta be in love with an old bike?

This is not the only obsolete part i have come across.
Where electrical items are concerned such as sound system switches etc. Harley isn't the only ones that used them and can still be gotten if you know what to look for, but i am having a heck of a time with this rheostat.
 
Find an automotive fuel gauge and use the rheostat from that, add appropriate resisters in series to calibrate to your float range.
Thank you Old triker:

Hah- Hah my friend, what you are describing about adding appropriate resistors in series is beyond my know how. (Thats why an electronics tech makes the big bucks?)

I be a might slow, However i am teachable!
 

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