Hannigan Aux fuel transfer rate

[kmawing]

I just had my bike converted to Hannigan. I can transfer all of the fuel from the aux in a matter of minutes if it is stationary. If I try to fill it while moving, it does not seem to work very well, if at all. Anybody else have this problem?


Thanks

[Hannigan Motorsports]

That is normal.
Two reasons.
1. The pump for the Aux Fuel System is electrically powered. When your trike is in motion, it's finite electrical power supply is being utilized to the max demand. With "supply" being static and "demand" being at its highest/peak, the power sent to each system is limited and therefore those systems on the outskirts of the trikes Grid are at a minimum. The electric fuel pump's output is working at a lower rate due to lower electrical input. Conversely when at stand-still idle, there is plenty electrical supply and minimum demand from the systems operating so the pump gets all it needs to operate a its maximum capacity.
2. The HMS Aux Fuel Assembly ties into the bike's existing fuel return line to the Primary Tank. When at Idle, the normal fuel supply hardware and assemblies are operating a minimum flow rate so the aux tank can "intervene & introduce" its supply at the easiest and fastest rate. When at full operating speeds and rate of flow, it is harder for it to interject itself into that return feed as the bike's normal fuel system requires and assumes the vast majority of the available conduit/hardware.

Hope this helps. To discuss further on this or any question you may have at this time or in the future, please don't hesitate to give us a call.

[kmawing]

I did some other research on different boards over the weekend. Apparently I am not the only one who thinks this is not how it should work. The following is a post from another board.

"When I had my 2009 Goldwing converted to a Hannigan Trike not long ago I opted to add the Aux Tank. It holds 4 1/2 gal, sits above the differential, is filled through a filler cap in the forward left fender just below the rear seat grab handle, and uses a pump to transfer the fuel to the main tank. Normally the Hannigan aux fuel transfer line runs into the fuel injection line returning the excess fuel to the main tank and that line in under pressure. So, the transfer aux fuel has to fight that line pressure while underway to transfer, and it may take 20 minutes to transfer underway. I had my aux tank transfer line rigged into the main tank fuel quantity float plate using a Roadsmith fitting. It takes 5 minutes to transfer underway."

Roadsmith does not seem to have a problem with electrical demand. Don't get me wrong, I absolutely love my Hannigan. This fuel return issue seems to be a realtively easy thing to fix. I don't understand why it is plumbed to a high pressure return line. If Roadsmith can do it, so could Hannigan.

[kmawing]

UPDATE. I called Roadsmith and described the parts I needed. Without hesitation, the parts person said, "Oh, you must have a Hannigan". The parts with instructions are being shipped this coming week. I will report on how it works out.

[jhennan]

To make thinks simple I turn off my gas valve on the side of the tank and just let the pull of the tank pump bring the gas from the aux tank to the engine while driving. When the aux runs out while driving I just turn the side valve back on and run by my gas gauge. That way I never have to wonder how much gas is left in aux. and I don't worry about burning the aux pump out if there is know gas to pump. I always know what I have for gas.

One other thing the main pump is so strong that it will actually pull gas from the aux tank making you think you are getting great gas mileage when you go to fill up the main tank and see the mileage verses gallons. plus if you fill the aux tank and later ck it if not used you will see that the aux tank level is down making you think you have a gas leak. But this is also a 2000 yamaha venture so things may differ. John at hannigan told me about this awhile back and I use this system all the time and Love it! FYI

[kmawing]

UPDATE: I received the parts from Roadsmith. If anybody else would like to do this modification, it is part number A-200-40 (REV A). If you are handy with tools, you should not have a problem. I finally was able to get in a ride and the fuel transferred on the move with no problem. I'm guessing it only took about 5 minutes or so to complete the transfer.

Don't get me wrong, I love my Hannigan. My wife is very comfortable and she says the ride is smoother than she thought it would be. I give it a 99.9% rating. If they were to change the fuel routing, I would be able to give it a 100%.

[stacebg]

That is normal.
Two reasons.
1. The pump for the Aux Fuel System is electrically powered. When your trike is in motion, it's finite electrical power supply is being utilized to the max demand. With "supply" being static and "demand" being at its highest/peak, the power sent to each system is limited and therefore those systems on the outskirts of the trikes Grid are at a minimum. The electric fuel pump's output is working at a lower rate due to lower electrical input. Conversely when at stand-still idle, there is plenty electrical supply and minimum demand from the systems operating so the pump gets all it needs to operate a its maximum capacity.
2. The HMS Aux Fuel Assembly ties into the bike's existing fuel return line to the Primary Tank. When at Idle, the normal fuel supply hardware and assemblies are operating a minimum flow rate so the aux tank can "intervene & introduce" its supply at the easiest and fastest rate. When at full operating speeds and rate of flow, it is harder for it to interject itself into that return feed as the bike's normal fuel system requires and assumes the vast majority of the available conduit/hardware.

Hope this helps. To discuss further on this or any question you may have at this time or in the future, please don't hesitate to give us a call.

this doesnt sound quite right... i am certainly no electrical engineer but would seem unless the alternator is not putting out enough or the wireing is too small there should be ~14 volts not matter what "grid" we are on or are we talking about the grind in the city lol.... sounds more like a plumbing issue not an electric on .... grid and "intervene & introduce" sounds more like lawer mumbo jumbo that the layman is not supposed to understand but thats just my opinion

[alwrmcusn]

Just my two cents worth:
My Hannigan (2009 Venture) transfers fuel just fine while moving. I've never transferred it unless I was rolling. It takes about 5-8 minutes normally.
I do have one "problem" with the transfer...If I forget to push the transfer button to OFF when the front tank fills, the bike will stutter and cut off exactly as though it were out of fuel. Quickly pressing the ON/OFF transfer switch will shut down the auxiliary pump and in a few seconds the "problem" is rectified.

[DennisT]

Might I ask what the cost for this part is.
Thanks
Dennis

[leo3wheel]

Auxiliary fuel tank is $1,000 installed.

[kmawing]

It was less than $30 plus shipping.

[michbiker1]

UPDATE. I called Roadsmith and described the parts I needed. Without hesitation, the parts person said, "Oh, you must have a Hannigan". The parts with instructions are being shipped this coming week. I will report on how it works out.

Please let everyone know how this works out. I would also appreciate a name and phone number as to where I can get the same parts and instructions.

[jaxbobg]

Good info. I've had the same problem on my BMW K1200LT/Hannigan and tried upgrading the aux fuel pump, bought at the local NAPA. It helped some, but still not a great solution. My transfer can take 15 minutes while on the road.

What exactly is the Roadsmith kit and what does it do? Does it route the aux fuel line differently into the main tank? Or is it a mod to the aux fuel pump?

Also, pictures of the kit and your modification would be greatly appreciated by the Hannigan trikers on the board.

[DennisT]

UPDATE: I received the parts from Roadsmith. If anybody else would like to do this modification, it is part number A-200-40 (REV A). If you are handy with tools, you should not have a problem. I finally was able to get in a ride and the fuel transferred on the move with no problem. I'm guessing it only took about 5 minutes or so to complete the transfer.

Don't get me wrong, I love my Hannigan. My wife is very comfortable and she says the ride is smoother than she thought it would be. I give it a 99.9% rating. If they were to change the fuel routing, I would be able to give it a 100%.

Any chance of getting a picture of the setup posted.

Dennis

[Lawingnutz]

Anybody got pictures of the Roadsmith mod they can share???

[Lawingnutz]

Purchased and installed the Roadsmith fitting along with a GEMS .5 GPM flow switch that I bought on Ebay. Flow switch is made with a stainless steel body with a hermetically sealed reed switch, which makes it safe for use in gasoline service, which is very important!! Tested and works perfect. I will hook the flow switch to a LED light next to the Aux Fuel Pump switch. This will allow me to know when fuel is being transferred. Don't want to run the pump dry.

[bikerbillone]

Please let everyone know how this works out. I would also appreciate a name and phone number as to where I can get the same parts and instructions.

Mike, give this guy an e-mail, he's the Road Smith 'go to' guy in Bear Lake.....

doug@trikeshop.com

[Lawingnutz]

Contact Roadsmith parts at The Trike Shop, phone number is 800-331-0705. The part number is A-200-40 Rev A. There are also two washers and a nyloc nut. Total cost with shipping was $38.

[Lawingnutz]

The Aux Fuel Pump switch is below lights to the right.
I added two 12VDC LED's. Red light means pump is running. Green light means fuel is flowing. Pic to the left is both lights on, Pic to right is red light only. Tested and works perfect!!

[slphelan]

I contacted Trikeshop.com 800-331-0705 and the parts department informed me that they do not sell the A-200-40 REV kit any longer. Hannigan Aux Fuel tank. Taylor Young is no longer with the company.


Does anyone know what individual parts I would need to purchase in order to perform the modification on a 2012 GL 1800A
Thanks

slphelan@hotmail.com