Stallion Wouldn't Crank

Oct 30, 2010
269
18
Tampa, FL
My Stallion wouldn’t “turn over”, when attempting to start. No clicking sound or anything. The strange thing was all the lights, radio etc. worked fine. The voltmeter was registering in excess of 12 volts. I contacted our “Tech Guru” Kevin (Stallion Tech) and he gave me step-by-step procedures to attempt to track down the problem. (1) Try starting in neutral and every position of the steering column – top to bottom. (2) Check fuse #7 (40 amp starter relay) . . . this is where I found the problem. The fuse apparently was not “seated” 100% over the two contacts that it sits on. While there I make sure all of the fuses were pressed down firmly.

Kevin was then going to have me check that fuse to see if I could feel or hear any click when the ignition was turned to the start position. If there was a click it would mean there was power going thru the fuse and heading to the starter. I was then to go to the engine starter and check the “small” yellow wire with blue stripe, with a volt meter or power light meter to make sure there was 12 volts at that point going to the starter, when the ignition was turned to the start position again. If power was there, the odds are the starter needs to be replaced (for a 2007 Ford Ranger 2.3L). I hope this doesn’t happen or hasn’t happened to anyone, but at least we now know what to look for in an “inexpensive” way. Thanks Kevin
 
I have several instances where my mine was silent and wouldn't start. I had to move the steering wheel up and down to get it to work. Dealer explained that there is a pin that moves when the wheel is moved to far up or down that prevents the switch from making the connection.
 
As soon as I pushed on the fuse, I felt it go down and "seat" properly. Guess just the vibration over time has an affect on everything.
 
Well, my Stallion failed to crank again recently (from the ignition). I could jump start it, but no luck using the key. My mechanic found the proper 12 volts going from the ignition to the starter relay, but found the voltage drop at the relay (during cranking – key in start position). The crank signal coming out of the crank pin of the relay plug (one of the grooves on the base where the relay plugs in), was about half the voltage it should have been. He traced the relay crank feed wire to the center PCM connecter Block (there are 3 blocks in the PCM). He intersected the wire at the PCM and ran an alternate wire back to the crank pin on the plug of the starter relay. It was time consuming, but I now understand the scenario.
 

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