What did you do to Your Tri-Glide Today?

[PosseRider]

when open ,it stays open until released.

[BKtrike]

Rode up to lake Chautauqua for the weekend.

[PosseRider]

Packed it for ride to Maggie Valley.. Just a few days early!!

[DOKK]

Installed lower fairing lights from Custom Dynamics. Easy peasy.

[DOKK]

Today was a busy day for UPS and FedEx at my house. I replaced the stock AC cover with one from V&H for the VO2 Naked intake and filter. I cleaned my EBS. I installed a new antennae for my satellite radio on the tour pak. I got the new stubby cone style and I must say it works much better than the old standard block style. I installed the matching Kury ISO shift peg on my heel shifter. I had already put the long one on the front. I installed the Kury ISO large footpegs on my highway peg mounts. Installed the Kury grip end weights on the ISO grips with the throttle boss and got the boss adjusted correctly. Installed the Hogworkz stubby FM antennae in place of the long stock antennae to make using my day cover easier. I think that was all for today. Lol.

It will get detailed tomorrow to get ready for a charity run my club is hosting on Saturday with the new foam cannon I picked up today too.

[DK Custom Products]

This weekend, changed the oil in the TG, cleaned the oil filter, and changed the primary fluid.

Spent 4.5 hours yesterday doing 11 different test runs on some prototype parts.

She's in tip-top shape.

Still amazed how much I like the syn3 in the primary.

Oh, I still have not finished going thru and checking all critical fasteners and hoses prior to leaving out for the East Arizona Get Together. Gotta get that done.

Also, just ordered some new lug nuts. I have removed the rear wheels so many times for various tests, the lug nuts are literally worn out.

Kevin

[rhino 2]

This weekend, changed the oil in the TG, cleaned the oil filter, and changed the primary fluid.

Spent 4.5 hours yesterday doing 11 different test runs on some prototype parts.

She's in tip-top shape.

Still amazed how much I like the syn3 in the primary.

Oh, I still have not finished going thru and checking all critical fasteners and hoses prior to leaving out for the East Arizona Get Together. Gotta get that done.

Also, just ordered some new lug nuts. I have removed the rear wheels so many times for various tests, the lug nuts are literally worn out.

Kevin

It’s been a long time since I wore out my nuts.😁😁

[Highaltidude]

The thing I really like about it is when it is open you have to "release" the bracket to close.

Then when you have a vendor work on your bike in Sturgis....

And the Tech isn't familiar with this product....

And leans on the tour pak lid to get it closed....

The vendor gets to buy you a new one!!!!

:-)

Chuck

[DK Custom Products]

It’s been a long time since I wore out my nuts.😁😁

[rhino 2]

I had to pick up 4 non-residents hunting licensees in Narrowsberg New York...So i got all my paperwork together last night...Jumped on the Tri-Glide at 7 Am...76 miles one way, Then i went to my camp South of The Ten Mile River dropped the licensees off there , And Then back home 180 + miles all told...The temps were in the low 40's and fog all the way up there..Where is all that heat that people are always complaining about that comes off the Harleys pipes and engine??..

[Drew]

Installed Papa Zook's rake kit.

Extremely brief review: https://www.triketalk.com/forum/thre...366#post850366

[DK Custom Products]

I ordered some new lug nuts. I have removed the rear wheels so many times for various tests, the lug nuts are literally worn out.

Here's a photo of one of the OEM 2 Piece Lug nuts.



They have an outer "chrome" colored shell. Over time, and because sometimes I used a 3/4" socket instead of the better fitting 19mm socket, that outer shell gets deformed.

Here's a pic of 2 new vs. 2 of the old lug nuts.



All new and torqued down. Need to retorque them after riding 50 or so miles. (manual says 100 miles, but I generally don't wait that long)



Got more than I need...only have two wheels of 4 each.



Still have more little maintenance things to do before the ride out west in 13 days.

Kevin

[ultrafxr]

Get yourself a 19mm socket and toss that 3/4" socket. Your nuts will be happy, happy, happy!

[PosseRider]

I ordered some new lug nuts. I have removed the rear wheels so many times for various tests, the lug nuts are literally worn out.

Here's a photo of one of the OEM 2 Piece Lug nuts.



They have an outer "chrome" colored shell. Over time, and because sometimes I used a 3/4" socket instead of the better fitting 19mm socket, that outer shell gets deformed.

Here's a pic of 2 new vs. 2 of the old lug nuts.



All new and torqued down. Need to retorque them after riding 50 or so miles. (manual says 100 miles, but I generally don't wait that long)



Got more than I need...only have two wheels of 4 each.



Still have more little maintenance things to do before the ride out west in 13 days.

Kevin

Kevin, what is the replacement nut ??? TIA

[DK Custom Products]

Get yourself a 19mm socket and toss that 3/4" socket. Your nuts will be happy, happy, happy!

I gotta keep my 3/4" socket...still have a lot of uses for it.

I do need to remember to use the 19mm on the lug nuts to keep my new, improved nuts happy though.

Kevin

[DK Custom Products]

Kevin, what is the replacement nut ??? TIA

I wanted to get USA made, but after 10 minutes of searching, I am ashamed to say, because of my impatience at spending more time, it resulted in me purchasing some from MIKKUPPA

SPECIFICATION - 1/2-20 thread - closed end bulge style lug nuts - conical 60 degree seat - 19mm hex - 1.4 in. long - 0.87 in. wide

Triple chrome, cold forged and heat treated steel

I do like that they are one piece...and I doubt that the OEM are made in the USA...but still, if I had not been in a hurry I would have taken the time to find some made in the USA.

Kevin

[Jack Klarich]

I wanted to get USA made, but after 10 minutes of searching, I am ashamed to say, because of my impatience at spending more time, it resulted in me purchasing some from MIKKUPPA

SPECIFICATION - 1/2-20 thread - closed end bulge style lug nuts - conical 60 degree seat - 19mm hex - 1.4 in. long - 0.87 in. wide

Triple chrome, cold forged and heat treated steel

I do like that they are one piece...and I doubt that the OEM are made in the USA...but still, if I had not been in a hurry I would have taken the time to find some made in the USA.

Kevin

I have hated those phony cheap shielded cover nuts, I will take a true 1 piece nut all day long

I have over the years cut the shield off those shielded nuts and used an 18mm socket to remove them and throw them as far as I could

Water and ( in cold climates) the chemicals used to prevent road freeze would work under the shield and bulge it making a regular size socket useless, many of those caps were destroyed as a result, did I mention I hate them

[ultrafxr]

As I get older I find I'm much more of a fair weather rider. Don't like rain and/or cold but got a few road trips planned for fall and figured what the heck I'll get a set of heated grips. Now you probably know about the supply chain interruptions allegedly due to covid. I'm not so sure H-D isn't milking it for profit but that's a topic for another thread. In any case I've had some on order for a few months and they finally came in a couple weeks ago.

Fast forward to this past Wednesday and I decided to install. I've done this on a couple bikes and while it's not a hugely complicated job it is a real pia nonetheless. Fishing the wires through the handlebars is one big pain. But I got them installed ok, buttoned everything up and took it out for a spin. What? You guessed it - NO HEAT. Zip, zilch, nada. Back to the drawing board. Tore it back down to check everything - all wires plugged in, check; all terminals in sockets fully seated, check, power at the connector, check. So I determined the likely culprit was the left handgrip. I mean that's the control center with the thermostat and it receives and feeds power to both grips. Off to the dealer where I bought them.

Explained my problem to my favorite parts guy. Yes there are some good ones and he agreed that might be the problem. Said the techs usually ask for the left heated grip when a bike is in for repair. Had my installations instructions with me and he said what's the part number for the left grip? In a few he came back with you guessed it - a left heated grip. He said 'take this, wire it in and see if everything works.' If it does bring me back the bad one and if not bring me back this one. No BS, no credit card, etc., etc. Now that's customer service.

Got it home and did not install it but removed outer fairing so I could get to the plugs and joy on joy they both heated. Next day I had to again tear everything down and remove and replace the left heated grip. Everything works now and while I'm happy with the outcome I'm still not happy with having to go through the hassle. But chit happens and sometimes defective parts slip through.

So if you're installing heated grips hook them up to power and verify they are working before doing the complete install. Lesson learned . . . and a painful one at that.

[Jack Klarich]

As I get older I find I'm much more of a fair weather rider. Don't like rain and/or cold but got a few road trips planned for fall and figured what the heck I'll get a set of heated grips. Now you probably know about the supply chain interruptions allegedly due to covid. I'm not so sure H-D isn't milking it for profit but that's a topic for another thread. In any case I've had some on order for a few months and they finally came in a couple weeks ago.

Fast forward to this past Wednesday and I decided to install. I've done this on a couple bikes and while it's not a hugely complicated job it is a real pia nonetheless. Fishing the wires through the handlebars is one big pain. But I got them installed ok, buttoned everything up and took it out for a spin. What? You guessed it - NO HEAT. Zip, zilch, nada. Back to the drawing board. Tore it back down to check everything - all wires plugged in, check; all terminals in sockets fully seated, check, power at the connector, check. So I determined the likely culprit was the left handgrip. I mean that's the control center with the thermostat and it receives and feeds power to both grips. Off to the dealer where I bought them.

Explained my problem to my favorite parts guy. Yes there are some good ones and he agreed that might be the problem. Said the techs usually ask for the left heated grip when a bike is in for repair. Had my installations instructions with me and he said what's the part number for the left grip? In a few he came back with you guessed it - a left heated grip. He said 'take this, wire it in and see if everything works.' If it does bring me back the bad one and if not bring me back this one. No BS, no credit card, etc., etc. Now that's customer service.

Got it home and did not install it but removed outer fairing so I could get to the plugs and joy on joy they both heated. Next day I had to again tear everything down and remove and replace the left heated grip. Everything works now and while I'm happy with the outcome I'm still not happy with having to go through the hassle. But chit happens and sometimes defective parts slip through.

So if you're installing heated grips hook them up to power and verify they are working before doing the complete install. Lesson learned . . . and a painful one at that.

Good write and valuable info. It is refreshing to hear you have a great relation with your parts department and access to great cooperation that goes the extra mile

[DK Custom Products]

Update to the post below-

I hit all the lug nuts with the torque wrench at about 60 miles after initially installing them. Only got one to turn a tiny bit before the click.

Today, another 250 miles later, out of the 8 lug nuts, 6 of them turned quite a bit...like 1/4 to 1/2 half turn before clicking.

VERY Surprising, and not confidence inspiring.

I can think of a few reasons this happened:

1. I did not have my torque wrench at the same ft. lbs. each time. I think I did, but I may have been a little off. I tripled checked the setting today, so I know where it is now.

2. Being new lug nuts they needed a bit more seating time than normal.

3. They are junk, (threads stretching or ???) and if so, they will be removed.

I will be riding another 150-200 miles this week and will be retorquing them again. If they have any movement before clicking, they are coming off. If they are still tight, then it was either #1 or #2 above.

Just wanted to let anyone who might be thinking of changing lug nuts based on my previous post to know that this is not a done deal yet.

Kevin

I ordered some new lug nuts. I have removed the rear wheels so many times for various tests, the lug nuts are literally worn out.

Here's a photo of one of the OEM 2 Piece Lug nuts.



They have an outer "chrome" colored shell. Over time, and because sometimes I used a 3/4" socket instead of the better fitting 19mm socket, that outer shell gets deformed.

Here's a pic of 2 new vs. 2 of the old lug nuts.



All new and torqued down. Need to retorque them after riding 50 or so miles. (manual says 100 miles, but I generally don't wait that long)



Got more than I need...only have two wheels of 4 each.



Still have more little maintenance things to do before the ride out west in 13 days.

Kevin