LRS 9" flattop windshield, JES oil temp dipstick and USB charging port
LRS 9" flattop windshield, JES oil temp dipstick and USB charging port
Welcome to TT from Ohio
2020 TriGlide Tahitian Teal aka (Hawaiian Hussy). Avon frt & Comfortred rear tires. ProAction frt & rear susp. RZ seat. DK floorboard extension & rear axle retainer kit with EBS, HD pull -back bars. Custom Dynamics front turn signals & Vent grill. All ,HD "Edge Cut " accessories.
HOW CAN YOU HELP THE TRIKE TALK FORUM? Become a GOLD CLUB MEMBER!
A veteran - whether active duty, retired, or reserve - is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to the 'United States of America', for an amount of 'up to and including my life.'
I may have jumped the gun today and installed my Cobra 909s. Head pipe has been delayed by a week or so. I’m still on the fence if I should try and install the head pipe my self. This is my first Harley and I have had a few issues doing maintenance and trying to install a FP3. FP3 might be defective. Won’t pair. Vin# not supported on this device. V&H is sending a replacement.
So I’m a little gun shy. Slip ons went on without any hiccups. Also swapped the windshield to a recurve one. I’m hoping for less buffering. Swapped out the heal shifter for a longer one to fit my size 13s.
Any opinions on installing the head pipe. Am I in over my head and need to have the dealer install? Or is it as simple as I have read it is?
Okay ... Now that I've earned my keep for the day .....
I took Kira on another ride today ... did a little adjustment on the tether and I feel better now about her being in the Pet Palace.
I stopped at the dog park to let her do the run and play thing. When I backed into my parking spot, I though I was in 1st, but, was still in reverse, so really neutral. Didn't set the parking brake, not sure why. Got off the trike and was getting Kira's leash out of the tour pak, and the trike slid back about 6 inches and the left muffler end cap hit the curb .. needless to say, dented the SS cap pretty good.
So, I ordered the Black Billet E-Series End Caps ... I've wanted them since I got the E-Series, just really couldn't justify the $100 ... guess now I have a reason ...
Every time you start your trike Kira will be ready to ride.
My mission in life is not merely to survive, but to thrive; and to do so with some passion, some compassion, some humor, and some style. – Maya Angelou
Trikes will roll away..........Back in 08 i had a Spyder and i left it in neutral on my driveway with the park brake on....Don't why i left it in neutral but i did..And as was prone with the first Spyder's [unbeknownst to me at the time]
the brake let loose , And the Spyder rolled down my driveway out into the road, I live on a hill and it went down the road for a hundred feet or so till it finally stoped when the rear tire hit the curbstones, No damage except to my pride what with me trying to run down a riderless Trike...–-
How does the saying go....If you sit in a hot stove you never sit on one again unless you check it first....That was the first and last time i left a trike parked in neutral brake on or not..
Sometimes a Cigar is Just a Cigar.....
2019 Tri-Glide.......
The toughest part of the head pipe install is getting the gaskets to seat on the head while putting the pipe in. You will need to move, rotate, tweak, massage the pipe, and hold your tongue just right. The problem is the engines heat up, cool down, and vibrate. So no mater how well the head pipe is made, it won't just slip on every engine. I recommend test fitting it before trying to get the gaskets in. Figure out what works to get it lined up and then try to get the gaskets to go in.
Also, go easy with the O2 sensors if you don't have a sensor tool. they can be swapped out with an open end, or, if you slot a deep well socket. HD sells the tool, not sure it's worth it for a one time swap.
Also, when removing the head pipe clamp nuts to the head, don't use a lot of force. If you snap a stud you might be drilling and tapping a head. Rare, but, it happens.
As with everything on a bike/trike, you will run into tight spots that will make it rough to torque stuff. The front cylinder head pipe clamp nuts come to mind. I was able to torque them on mine without removing loosening the lower right faring, but, on a friend of mine's tri, we had to loosen it and move it a bit to get access to the nuts.
Also, there is a very specific torque sequence, so make sure you use it. The sequence is designed to help seat the gaskets.
Other than those "tips" it's like a puzzle (always easier when you have a picture of what the finish product will look like), make sure you know where all the heat shields go and maybe take pictures of where the clamps and shields were when you took it apart. Also maybe take pictures of the O2 señor wire routing, easy to get the wires too close to the heat and melt them.
I recommend taking it apart from the back to the front, and putting it back together from the front to the back, pretty logical, but, maybe not obvious.
As with any wrenching, I recommend a shop manual. You can get a good digital one from these guys for like $30.
https://rapidmanuals.com
You think that's bad come home one day with my stallion park in front of the barn very slight incline get out to open garage door walkin to the barn my back to the trike I hear this explosion turn around to look the stallion some how jumped in to reverse went back about a 100 feet hit the back of my dump truck W T F it blew the body right of it , ended up being a total loss, I did not put collision on it but my insurance agent did THANK GOD . They had all the neutral safety switch problems I think that was the cause . I use my ebrake all the time now
My ignition switch became misaligned and I couldn't remove it from the housing in order to realign the three components inside. Had to remove the entire housing and go inside to get the chrome colored barrel to rotate so it would release the bottom tang on the ignition switch shaft, then I was able to remove the switch and get everything realigned.
I've had it get out of alignment a few times before, but was always able to easily remove the switch and realign the three internal parts, then correctly reinstall the switch. Unfortunately, this time I had to get inside the housing to fix the problem.
Got everything back together, installed it and now its making those positive clicks when rotating the switch to Ignition On/Off, Accessory or Fork Lock Modes.....94* and 102 heat index today
Reassembled Housing
2016 Tri Glide Billet Silver w/Pinstripes ["Hi-Yo, Silver! Away!"]
• "There is so much good in the worst of us, and so much bad in the best of us, that it ill behooves any of us to find fault with the rest of us." ..... James Truslow Adams
• 2nd BN 33rd Armor "The Tiger Battalion" "1972 - 1974"
Mom normally sleeps in, so, I went out to the garage and set up Kira's pen. Put her in the pen and started to look into the digital level/temp oil dipstick. The level part quit working awhile back.
If you read the reviews on these things, most are highly negative. Usually around 1 year to 16 months they die. I've had this one since 2014. I've had in on a few bikes/trikes and had to swap batteries like 5 times. The last time it started acting weird, I put new batteries in it and the Level just kept saying"LOW".
Shortly after that the ProAction 14" shocks kept me busy, then came Kira who really keeps me busy ... LOL.
Now mom is recovering from her Hammer Toe surgery, so the mornings are kind of s good time to get Alan stuff done.
Anyway, I pulled the dipstick, put the OEM in and set up a small "clean area" to work on it. This basically was a sheet in an old oil drain tray, mostly so I don't loose screws. Cleaned up the outside and commenced to taking it apart. I discovered the little connector to the digital screen was a bit corroded. Cleaned it up, got some dielectric grease on it, put it back together and voila, it was back to working. I put some magic Lube on the gasket between the two halves and it should be good to go now ... took it out for a 20 mile ride in 90* air temp, came back and the level read fine and the temp was 209*. Hopefully it will work for another 5 or so years before I need to fix it again.
Thanks Fuzzy.
It’s the flange nuts on the head flanges that make me think hard about my options. Good points around the gaskets. I can see where you could create a leak.
The local dealer wants 3 hours labor to do the job. I have another local mom and pop bike shop near me. I’m going to give them a call tomorrow.
just having the slip ons, the S&S air box, and tuner installed. I can fell a big difference in torque.
So I installed higher tires and have been slowly adj. Head light. I'm almost where I want to be zap out adj. Screw travel. Is it possible to washer the adjustment screw i thought I had seen somewhere you can do it just curious. Help... Fred
Vintage 09' Vivid Black, Boyesen X force intake, DK Customs DIY external breather, PV tuner, Mighty Mite love Jugs,Titanium Wrapped Header pipe, Khrome Werks 2+2 Wide Sweepers, DK 2" tank lift deluxe, Air Deflectors, Rear Bumper, Fender Chrome trim, Kuri. Rear lights, 9" LRS recurve flat top wind screen, LED headlight and spots, Hubcaps rear wheels
Apparently I'm getting older by the minute. And worrying about Mom and trying to keep Kira from destroying the house, I just am not paying attention like I should. (personally, I think I'm getting old, I installed the shocks upside down and none of the other stuff was going on).
Anyway, I went out this morning, removed the OEM end caps on my E-Series mufflers and removed 2 of the spacers, that puts me back to where Fuel Moto recommended for my situation. Also got rid of the two bent ones on each side and quieted it down a bit and added some torque. Before adding the preload on the shocks, I would drag the mufflers on the curb leading to my driveway every once in awhile if the angle was wrong. Now, they never drag.
Next was to clean the threads of the bolts and apply anti seize to the threads. I opted to go with the OEM chrome end blanks, not the satin black ones I painted. With the Black Billet end caps, I thought the contrast would look good. So I installed the left one and stood back to see how it looked. I liked the look so started on the right side.
Here's where the dementia came in. I started rummaging around in the box and you guessed it ... there was only one end cap. Apparently the dang things come as singles (makes sense, I'd like to be able to purchase just one if I needed to replace one). So, I took the right hand stuff and put it back on with the OEM end blank. Then I ordered another single end cap for the right side ... .
Here's how it looks right now
I like the contrast with the black one, Fuzzy. Right now it kinda looks like you got a black eye there!
It is what it is.
16 Tri Glide vivid black
I can relate to the delicate feelings of your liking. For me simple is better and black one's are beautiful
Vintage 09' Vivid Black, Boyesen X force intake, DK Customs DIY external breather, PV tuner, Mighty Mite love Jugs,Titanium Wrapped Header pipe, Khrome Werks 2+2 Wide Sweepers, DK 2" tank lift deluxe, Air Deflectors, Rear Bumper, Fender Chrome trim, Kuri. Rear lights, 9" LRS recurve flat top wind screen, LED headlight and spots, Hubcaps rear wheels