Champion trike rear brake bleed advice

[scribe5]

I have a Champion GW trike, 2005 kit. I am going to bleed the rear brake system. There are two bleed screws on each rear wheel caliper. They are positioned so that one is on top and one is on the bottom for each caliper. First, which wheel should I bleed first (left or right)? Second, for the bleed screws on each caliper, do I need to do both for each caliper, first one and then the other one, or should I just do the top one or just the bottom one. I am using a MityVac bleeder.

[THEREALTRIKKY]

You may want to contact Champion also for specifics, but I THIINK, that you'd only bleed the top bleeder on each caliper. <br />
<br />
As far as a mightyvac, they're good for mass bleeding, but on the GL, I strongly recommend you go through and do a final manual pressure bleed to be certain you've removed all of the air out of the system.

[scribe5]

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<img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>THEREALTRIKKY</strong>
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<div class="message">You may want to contact Champion also for specifics, but I THIINK, that you'd only bleed the top bleeder on each caliper. <br />
<br />
As far as a mightyvac, they're good for mass bleeding, but on the GL, I strongly recommend you go through and do a final manual pressure bleed to be certain you've removed all of the air out of the system.</div>

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</div> Thanks for the info!

[07BlueCSC]

Bleed the caliper closest to the master cylinder first. Use the top bleeder.

[pcombe]

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<img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>scribe5</strong>
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<div class="message">I have a Champion GW trike, 2005 kit. I am going to bleed the rear brake system. There are two bleed screws on each rear wheel caliper. They are positioned so that one is on top and one is on the bottom for each caliper. First, which wheel should I bleed first (left or right)? Second, for the bleed screws on each caliper, do I need to do both for each caliper, first one and then the other one, or should I just do the top one or just the bottom one. I am using a MityVac bleeder.</div>

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My instructions had me doing the first bleed through the top and the final bleed through the bottom.<br />
It took me a while.<br />
<br />
The power bleed should help, you may have some trouble just filling the lines.<br />
<br />
When i first got my trike on the road it didn't seem to me that i had enough braking power but it got better with use. I still wish i had a bit more stopping power.<br />
<br />
My champion brakes are a Volkswagen set up, they stop a Volkswagen!<br />
It seems they must be an anti lock system?<img src="images/smilies/shrug.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Shrug" class="inlineimg" /><br />
<br />
The front brake on a motorcycle accounts for about 70% of it's stopping power if i remember right, and it sure SEEMS to apply to the trike.<br />
<br />
I don't personally know of a way to increase the rear stopping power? Dont get me wrong, It hasn't caused me any trouble in a fast stop, it's just something to get used too.<br />
<br />
Just dance the dance until the brakes break in, I got them a little hot at first to take off some of the glaze<br />
on the brake pads.<a href="http://www.triketalk.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=17743&amp;d=1389722203 " title="Name: smiles-dance2.gif
Views: 82
Size: 11.3 KB">smiles-dance2.gif</a><a href="http://www.triketalk.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=17743&amp;d=1389722203 " title="Name: smiles-dance2.gif
Views: 82
Size: 11.3 KB">smiles-dance2.gif</a><a href="http://www.triketalk.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=17743&amp;d=1389722203 " title="Name: smiles-dance2.gif
Views: 82
Size: 11.3 KB">smiles-dance2.gif</a><br />
<br />
One word of caution?<br />
I have been told that you should never wash your trike with HOT brakes as it may warp them?<br />
Someone else would have to jump in on that question or use the search feature at the top of the forum?

[scribe5]

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<img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>pcombe</strong>
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<div class="message">My instructions had me doing the first bleed through the top and the final bleed through the bottom.<br />
It took me a while.<br />
<br />
The power bleed should help, you may have some trouble just filling the lines.<br />
<br />
When i first got my trike on the road it didn't seem to me that i had enough braking power but it got better with use. I still wish i had a bit more stopping power.<br />
<br />
My champion brakes are a Volkswagen set up, they stop a Volkswagen!<br />
It seems they must be an anti lock system?<img src="images/smilies/shrug.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Shrug" class="inlineimg" /><br />
<br />
The front brake on a motorcycle accounts for about 70% of it's stopping power if i remember right, and it sure SEEMS to apply to the trike.<br />
<br />
I don't personally know of a way to increase the rear stopping power? Dont get me wrong, It hasn't caused me any trouble in a fast stop, it's just something to get used too.<br />
<br />
Just dance the dance until the brakes break in, I got them a little hot at first to take off some of the glaze<br />
on the brake pads.<a href="http://www.triketalk.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=17743&amp;d=1389722203 " title="Name: smiles-dance2.gif
Views: 82
Size: 11.3 KB">smiles-dance2.gif</a><a href="http://www.triketalk.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=17743&amp;d=1389722203 " title="Name: smiles-dance2.gif
Views: 82
Size: 11.3 KB">smiles-dance2.gif</a><a href="http://www.triketalk.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=17743&amp;d=1389722203 " title="Name: smiles-dance2.gif
Views: 82
Size: 11.3 KB">smiles-dance2.gif</a><br />
<br />
One word of caution?<br />
I have been told that you should never wash your trike with HOT brakes as it may warp them?<br />
Someone else would have to jump in on that question or use the search feature at the top of the forum?</div>

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</div> Thanks for the suggestions....I am not happy with the breaking power of the rear brakes. I am eyeball deep in looking for a different setup === changing rotors, calipers and pads--not an easy proposition. So, for now, I will change the brake fluid and try to get as much air out of the system as possible. I also have on order three different brake pads--I hope they fit---to see if one has more bite than the OEMs. If that doesn't work, I will return to my search for a replacement. I did find out that Champion uses (at least for its 2005 kit) a 1976 Volkswagen brake system that was used to replace the original rear drum brakes on the Volkswagen. The brake pad Champion uses is made by Paget and they are # D101P.

[pcombe]

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<img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>scribe5</strong>
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<div class="message">Thanks for the suggestions....I am not happy with the breaking power of the rear brakes. I am eyeball deep in looking for a different setup === changing rotors, calipers and pads--not an easy proposition. So, for now, I will change the brake fluid and try to get as much air out of the system as possible. I also have on order three different brake pads--I hope they fit---to see if one has more bite than the OEMs. If that doesn't work, I will return to my search for a replacement. I did find out that Champion uses (at least for its 2005 kit) a 1976 Volkswagen brake system that was used to replace the original rear drum brakes on the Volkswagen. The brake pad Champion uses is made by Paget and they are # D101P.</div>

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</div> Maybe i should us the forum and shoot the questions on stopping power to champion?<br />
They have always treated me good.<br />
<br />
say how about letting me know how IT works out for you OK?<br />
Perhaps p.m. me if it takes a while as i may unsubcribe from the thread at some point?

[1800 06 Champion Trike]

I have a 06 with the Suzuki S/A rear end.
Bought the wing and kit brand new.
When I first got it, it didn't seem to stop real good. Now over the past years and a complete going through by my dealer, it seems to be better.

[Teal]

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<img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>scribe5</strong>
<a href="showthread.php?p=211604#post211604" rel="nofollow"><img class="inlineimg" src="images/buttons/viewpost-right.png" alt="View Post" /></a>
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<div class="message">I have a Champion GW trike, 2005 kit. I am going to bleed the rear brake system. There are two bleed screws on each rear wheel caliper. They are positioned so that one is on top and one is on the bottom for each caliper. First, which wheel should I bleed first (left or right)? Second, for the bleed screws on each caliper, do I need to do both for each caliper, first one and then the other one, or should I just do the top one or just the bottom one. I am using a MityVac bleeder.</div>

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</div>bleeding these brakes takes a lot of fluid volume,, mity vac- i have never got this work for this.<br />
if you can get a pressure bleeder on --that will work better but dont over pressure the tank line to the master cycl.<br />
ive never use the bottom bleeder on the caliper<br />
you will find the bleeders (when loosened) often leak around the threads causing a problem. may have to use some pipe dope on them or buy "speed bleeders".<br />
if all fails -- using petal to bleed will sometimes get you a good job.<br />
once the air is out you will be able to lock the tires if you desire.<br />
BTW ive never found the VW pads locally. about $50 from champion i think.

[saab9k]

Buy soft pads. They. Stop better.
Change master cylinder to one with less diameter on piston.

[scribe5]

Buy soft pads. They. Stop better.
Change master cylinder to one with less diameter on piston.

All good ideas. Any idea what master cylinder would work?

[Firea100]

The "softness" of the pads is really a lot of the answer in stopping power. I bought a wrecked 2008 Ford Edge to rebuild. After we finished the body work, My buddy installed a set of pads with low brake dust output and warranted for life. The car would not stop for anything! After re-turning the rotors and re-bleeding the system several times, I finally went to the local Ford dealer and purchased a set of OEM pads. NOT Motorcraft or Autolight service pads. WOW what a difference! I'll never buy aftermarket pads again. I've worked on cars all my adult life. I never realized that the OEM type pads will give you that "new car feel". Maybe if you can find out what the axle was originally used in and try buying a set of their OEM pads, maybe that would help. JMHO
Larry in East China Mi.

[saab9k]

The "softness" of the pads is really a lot of the answer in stopping power. I bought a wrecked 2008 Ford Edge to rebuild. After we finished the body work, My buddy installed a set of pads with low brake dust output and warranted for life. The car would not stop for anything! After re-turning the rotors and re-bleeding the system several times, I finally went to the local Ford dealer and purchased a set of OEM pads. NOT Motorcraft or Autolight service pads. WOW what a difference! I'll never buy aftermarket pads again. I've worked on cars all my adult life. I never realized that the OEM type pads will give you that "new car feel". Maybe if you can find out what the axle was originally used in and try buying a set of their OEM pads, maybe that would help. JMHO
Larry in East China Mi.

Some years ago had MB 300 Diesel. 6 cyl.
Front break pads lasted 20000. Miles. Had black brake dust on front wheels, after a few hundred miles after wash.
Had excellent brakes. I don't buy nothing but soft pads.
My Valkyrie will have new pads removed, replaced with soft.