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Thread: reloading .380's

  1. #1
    750+ Posts tom w's Avatar
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    Default reloading .380's

    my book states a coal length of .970 using a lrn slug. and suggests a tight nose crimp to avoid additional set back when it feeds due to this increasing chamber pressure. my question is ; I m using a carbide 3 piece rcbs die set. does anybody here know if I have to buy a separate crimping die to get the required fit ?

    other references say not to crimp neck . ?

  2. #2
    100+ Posts ebiss9's Avatar
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    Default Re: reloading .380's

    Bullets for semi-automatic firearms are usually taper crimped for proper feeding. But the brass size must be consistent with each case to assure a constant crimp. I've loaded .380, 90 grain, hard cast lead round nose bullets using RCBS carbide dies and have always placed a small crimp on them. I always cut the cases to the “trim-to-length” for crimp uniformity. If your reloading die has “TC” or says “Taper Crimp” stamped then it will also taper crimp the case. RCBS reloading die literature states to turn the die down after it contacts the mouth of case until you feel firm resistance. The measured crimp should be .0005”-.001” difference from the mouth to the lower case measurement. My Lyman manual calls for a .980” COAL and the Speer and Nosler manuals have no information for the LRN .380. I'm by far no expert but if I can be of further help let me know........
    Rob Sprague
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  3. #3
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    Default Re: reloading .380's

    Hello Tom

    The fellow from NJ is right . I use a lite taper crimp on all my straight wall pistol brass . You have to be real careful , not to get a heavy crimp , because it will cause higher pressures , and that could be dangerous . When a new load is tried , I always shoot a few , then check for bulging of the case or pushed out primer .

  4. #4
    750+ Posts tom w's Avatar
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    Default Re: reloading .380's

    at least one of my friends shoots a less than reputable fire arm (I personally don't shoot a .380) from some of what I have read the bullet set back is real important in .380 due to chamber pressure. I had reloaded some that were a little short (about .040 under ) so I took them apart with a pulling hammer.
    some were seated well and took a few raps of the hammer to get the slug out. some took only 1 or 2 taps and fell apart. as I understand that during feeding the bullet can be pushed in more so I want a more reliable crimp. I ordered a factory crimp die from LEE that is adjustable . its another step but will make me feel better about what im turning out.

  5. #5
    750+ Posts tom w's Avatar
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    Default Re: reloading .380's

    Quote Originally Posted by ebiss9 View Post
    Bullets for semi-automatic firearms are usually taper crimped for proper feeding. But the brass size must be consistent with each case to assure a constant crimp. I've loaded .380, 90 grain, hard cast lead round nose bullets using RCBS carbide dies and have always placed a small crimp on them. I always cut the cases to the “trim-to-length” for crimp uniformity. If your reloading die has “TC” or says “Taper Crimp” stamped then it will also taper crimp the case. RCBS reloading die literature states to turn the die down after it contacts the mouth of case until you feel firm resistance. The measured crimp should be .0005”-.001” difference from the mouth to the lower case measurement. My Lyman manual calls for a .980” COAL and the Speer and Nosler manuals have no information for the LRN .380. I'm by far no expert but if I can be of further help let me know........
    the book I got with my press (speer) says no less than .970. .980 sounds good to me as a target. why I wrote down .930 I don't know ! got 50 rounds done and found my mistake. I took them apart and started over.
    experts are not the ones I like to get advise from . they usually know everything and treat us amatures like we are stupid. I just don't want to get some one hurt with my reloads.

  6. #6
    100+ Posts ebiss9's Avatar
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    Default Re: reloading .380's

    With reloading, we are all continually in the learning mode and therefore amateurs in some way. It doesn’t matter how many years experience one has. Let us know how you make out.......Rob
    Rob Sprague
    Vineland, NJ
    2009 BMW R1200RT Black Metallic
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    2004 BMW K1200GT Orient Blue

  7. #7
    750+ Posts tom w's Avatar
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    Default Re: reloading .380's

    Quote Originally Posted by ebiss9 View Post
    With reloading, we are all continually in the learning mode and therefore amateurs in some way. It doesn’t matter how many years experience one has. Let us know how you make out.......Rob
    I think I found an issue ! was kind of I didn't see it before.
    any one who casts any type of metal knows how inconsistent the raw castings are. I found that some of my cast lead round nosed bullets were way under .355 and fit loose even after the tapered crimp was done. tried a different slug and they worked fine. tried the slugs in several different cases and they fit loose in all of them. measured at .352. just have to re-melt them and try again. thanks for all the help

  8. #8
    750+ Posts tom w's Avatar
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    Default Re: reloading .380's

    I received my .380 factory crimp die from Lee. works good you can set a light crimp on the end of the case . it is adjustable . still weeding out skinny bullets. I don't know what happened to make them shrink that small. I found about 1/2 dozen that were way too small. could it be the new lead im using? found a bunch of big fishing sinkers . I m mixing 1/2+1/2 with lyneotype lead and bash cooling the finished slugs . any body have any Ideas?

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