Rear Brake Rotors for 2012 Triglide

They do have a different caliper for sure which would probably have different mounting holes also so using the old caliper on the later bracket might not work. Too bad a person can't get access to any drawings for the parts.
The only time to consider a change would be if you needed replacement on your one dime.
I don't mind mine now that I have the EBC pads on. The stock was an accident waiting to happen.
I wish MOCO was forward enough to offer an upgrade to previous editions in the name of safety. Even if you had to purchase the upgrade. But they are too busy selling the new editions. Just keep spending on their "T" shirts......
 
They do have a different caliper for sure which would probably have different mounting holes also so using the old caliper on the later bracket might not work. Too bad a person can't get access to any drawings for the parts.
The only time to consider a change would be if you needed replacement on your one dime.
I don't mind mine now that I have the EBC pads on. The stock was an accident waiting to happen.
I wish MOCO was forward enough to offer an upgrade to previous editions in the name of safety. Even if you had to purchase the upgrade. But they are too busy selling the new editions. Just keep spending on their "T" shirts......

The bracket on the axle which the caliper mount connects to is the same PN for the 14 and later Triglide as it is the 13 and earlier. It leads me to believe it will fit if the caliper mounting bracket is also installed.
 
Welcome to the forum. I will be pulling my rear rotors off in the next two weeks and be happy to map out the measurements. We all will benefit by finding a more reasonable ($$$) alternative. I'll get back in touch as soon as I have them removed.

Thanks. Measurements would be appreciated. Email me and I will give you the form of the parameters I need measured and i can get this figured out for all of us....... (sesenn7) and that's at gmail. Let me know!
 
rear Rotors on Tri Glide

Ok... after some help from my friends ... here goes.... rear non vented rotors from a circa 2002-2006 Ford Focus are a close match. i say close because from measurements given of this stock rotor that sells at NAPA for $14.50, they need minimal machining to match. Also, rear vented rotors from a 86-88 Ford T-bird turbo coupe fit, if machined. Harder though, due to the vented rotor - they would have to machine the whole back disc off - one person verified this method and did it. Wish i could have marked the blog, but i know what i read.

I have yet to physically verify this for myself, but i am pulling the rear wheels today to check the brake pads because i rode home last nite WITH the parking brake on, only 10 miles, but thats another story - i have the capability to machine and drill the rotors if this works... and for $15, im thinking its worth a try. And if it does ....

should be problem solved. NOW - IF - i cannot machine these, i will take to one of the machine shops i deal with at work, and im sure with the machining it could only cost me around $50....so add it up ... $15 x 2 + $50 = WAAAY ahead of HDs price and probably a better product as i will have them drill and slot the rotors also.

Take it with a grain of salt - this to me is all STILL a project that i have not completed, but i know im on the right track. Check it out for yer selves. Heres to experimenting!!

:LordHelp:
 
I have heard in the past that some owners have drilled out there rotors..I do not believe you will feel that much of a difference in stopping..

I believe these are hayes brakes..Maybe contact them for advise..
 
Ok... after some help from my friends ... here goes.... rear non vented rotors from a circa 2002-2006 Ford Focus are a close match. i say close because from measurements given of this stock rotor that sells at NAPA for $14.50, they need minimal machining to match. Also, rear vented rotors from a 86-88 Ford T-bird turbo coupe fit, if machined. Harder though, due to the vented rotor - they would have to machine the whole back disc off - one person verified this method and did it. Wish i could have marked the blog, but i know what i read.

I have yet to physically verify this for myself, but i am pulling the rear wheels today to check the brake pads because i rode home last nite WITH the parking brake on, only 10 miles, but thats another story - i have the capability to machine and drill the rotors if this works... and for $15, im thinking its worth a try. And if it does ....

should be problem solved. NOW - IF - i cannot machine these, i will take to one of the machine shops i deal with at work, and im sure with the machining it could only cost me around $50....so add it up ... $15 x 2 + $50 = WAAAY ahead of HDs price and probably a better product as i will have them drill and slot the rotors also.

Take it with a grain of salt - this to me is all STILL a project that i have not completed, but i know im on the right track. Check it out for yer selves. Heres to experimenting!!

:LordHelp:

I'm waiting for your results. Sounds very promising.
 
I have heard in the past that some owners have drilled out there rotors..I do not believe you will feel that much of a difference in stopping..

I believe these are hayes brakes..Maybe contact them for advise..

What do you mean - no difference? You dont think drilled rotors would improve longevity, as well as cooling quicker? Better stopping? And what if you use a ceramic(havent found yet for TG) or full sintered pad? Works on a car... why not bike? Especially trike...?

Do u mean as to say the stock rotors on the Harley Trikes are 'Hayes' brand? For Bicycles??

Not an argument, just trying to understand what yer sayin....

- - - Updated - - -

I'm waiting for your results. Sounds very promising.

Lets hope Gorilla ....

:clapping:
 
I'll be interested in the results here as well. Definitely not going to replace with stock Harley rotors when the time comes.

Also wondered if going to a caliper with dual pistons would be a good improvement, mainly with the lyndall pads because of their greater width. Also because of the large difference in wear on the stock pads from the leading and trailing sides of the pads. Anyway, just a thought. I'm not sure if they even make a dual piston caliper for these yet.
 
What do you mean - no difference? You dont think drilled rotors would improve longevity, as well as cooling quicker? Better stopping? And what if you use a ceramic(havent found yet for TG) or full sintered pad? Works on a car... why not bike? Especially trike...?

Do u mean as to say the stock rotors on the Harley Trikes are 'Hayes' brand? For Bicycles??

Not an argument, just trying to understand what yer sayin....

- - - Updated - - -



Lets hope Gorilla ....

:clapping:

It may help cooling but improve longevity on the stock rotors and stopping faster not IMO.

Sure you can use different type of pads go for it let us know how they work out. :D

Yep Hayes makes brakes for all kinds of vehicles.

http://www.hayesbrake.com/markets/motorcycle/

I would use a 4 piston caliper and update the master cylinder to help the stopping of the trike..
 
Any news on this?

Ok... after some help from my friends ... here goes.... rear non vented rotors from a circa 2002-2006 Ford Focus are a close match. i say close because from measurements given of this stock rotor that sells at NAPA for $14.50, they need minimal machining to match. Also, rear vented rotors from a 86-88 Ford T-bird turbo coupe fit, if machined. Harder though, due to the vented rotor - they would have to machine the whole back disc off - one person verified this method and did it. Wish i could have marked the blog, but i know what i read.

I have yet to physically verify this for myself, but i am pulling the rear wheels today to check the brake pads because i rode home last nite WITH the parking brake on, only 10 miles, but thats another story - i have the capability to machine and drill the rotors if this works... and for $15, im thinking its worth a try. And if it does ....

should be problem solved. NOW - IF - i cannot machine these, i will take to one of the machine shops i deal with at work, and im sure with the machining it could only cost me around $50....so add it up ... $15 x 2 + $50 = WAAAY ahead of HDs price and probably a better product as i will have them drill and slot the rotors also.

Take it with a grain of salt - this to me is all STILL a project that i have not completed, but i know im on the right track. Check it out for yer selves. Heres to experimenting!!

:LordHelp:

My 2010 is in need of rear rotors. Also, what do you mean by "machining"? Are you talking thickness?
 
lease keep us posted

My 2010 is in need of rear rotors. Also, what do you mean by "machining"? Are you talking thickness?

Man what a savings I would be interested to know if it works. I would have it done also. Thanks I went to a dead end on my search. ride safely fearless :clapping: :clapping: :clapping:
 
Gorilla... i answered your message... did you receive it??

- - - Updated - - -

My 2010 is in need of rear rotors. Also, what do you mean by "machining"? Are you talking thickness?

and yes... i mean machining down a ford focus rotor. not much mind you... but it seems to be the right track. I will be trying this myself, but havent needed them yet. Winter is coming though and seeing that HD made the new OEM rotors and pads 'bigger', they may at least be addressing the problems with these that many are talking about.

I have yet to hear anyone with a CSC or Hannigan or even Franky kit on having - stopping issues.
 
Anyone have what needs done to them ?

I have a friend who is a excellent machinist what needs done to the focus rotors to make them fit cut off how much and where? I will need rotors on old shiney this winter and I have access to a lathe! :D ride safely fearless
 
TriGlide rotor UPDATE !

Ok folks.. i have a Triglide rotor sitting next to me. I have measured it and compared to a 'drawing/diagram' from NAPA.

It seems machining a 2002 Ford Focus REAR rotor will work. Right now i dont have time to put the measurements up. I am working on a sheet that will explain where the new part needs 'trimmed' down. I am going to buy one and double make sure the stock part is the size indeed they say it is. Call it what you want - i just dont want to make a direct assumption and be a jackazz. I would love to solve this and be 100% positive it will work. Because if it does, yes, they are going on my TG when 'done'.

Right now all i can say is - the stock rotor being used for experiment is #NB 48880035.

This is a common part number to reference this rotor i have found. THIS IS NOT THE NAPA part #. This number seems to be common to all auto parts stores and even i saw it referenced on Ebay. The price?? WAAAAAAY less than what some have paid. Just remember, its not a bolt on - but at least now my thinking gears are at a faster speed. ThumbUp Close - im real close.

if anyone wants - email me - i can send them the comparision drawings when im done direct. Work load is heavy right now - so please be patient ya'll! sesenn7 AT gmail - SEAN

:pepper:
 
Great news

Ok folks.. i have a Triglide rotor sitting next to me. I have measured it and compared to a 'drawing/diagram' from NAPA.

It seems machining a 2002 Ford Focus REAR rotor will work. Right now i dont have time to put the measurements up. I am working on a sheet that will explain where the new part needs 'trimmed' down. I am going to buy one and double make sure the stock part is the size indeed they say it is. Call it what you want - i just dont want to make a direct assumption and be a jackazz. I would love to solve this and be 100% positive it will work. Because if it does, yes, they are going on my TG when 'done'.

Right now all i can say is - the stock rotor being used for experiment is #NB 48880035.

This is a common part number to reference this rotor i have found. THIS IS NOT THE NAPA part #. This number seems to be common to all auto parts stores and even i saw it referenced on Ebay. The price?? WAAAAAAY less than what some have paid. Just remember, its not a bolt on - but at least now my thinking gears are at a faster speed. ThumbUp Close - im real close.

if anyone wants - email me - i can send them the comparision drawings when im done direct. Work load is heavy right now - so please be patient ya'll! sesenn7 AT gmail - SEAN

:pepper:

:clapping: :AllGood: Thank you I have discussed this with my friend he says no problem thank you ride safely fearless
 
Brake rotor issue

Has anyone considered cutting the rotor to smoothness and having a thicker brake pad done, ? seen it done on cars, why not on trikes ?

Just a thought. :cool:

If Harley copied motor trike rear end stuff, they use a ford ranger or ? do they not ? some place to start including the focus, good luck.
 
Has anyone considered cutting the rotor to smoothness and having a thicker brake pad done, ? seen it done on cars, why not on trikes ?

Just a thought. :cool:

If Harley copied motor trike rear end stuff, they use a ford ranger or ? do they not ? some place to start including the focus, good luck.


YES.. no worries... my findings will give the option of maybe making the rotors 2-3mm thicker. i have thought of this. cant determine that though until i check clearances when the new part is actually mounted with new pads.
 
YES.. no worries... my findings will give the option of maybe making the rotors 2-3mm thicker. i have thought of this. cant determine that though until i check clearances when the new part is actually mounted with new pads.

SeanSean1 good job thank you for the efforts. you have knowledge that a lot of us do not.
 
poor metal!

Has anyone considered cutting the rotor to smoothness and having a thicker brake pad done, ? seen it done on cars, why not on trikes ?

Just a thought. :cool:

If Harley copied motor trike rear end stuff, they use a ford ranger or ? do they not ? some place to start including the focus, good luck.

:Trike1: Let me say this the metal is junk on our brake rotors look at the heat front rotors take for years. mine rear rotors were junk in less than 8,000 miles. No excuses junk metal! It is what it is! and no help from the Motor Co. :mad: ride safely fearless
 

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