Shortened swing axels and oil leak from axel ends

Mar 17, 2011
39
3
GB
Has anyone any experience of very short swing axels. I have narrowed mine to 10" each side. Getting oil leak from axel ends. Replace and ok for a while until I go on motorway run.

Any help appreciated
 

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Hi

no welding of the outer tubes. Bought new ones shortened the tubes and then pressed into new axel carriers
 
You're facing a typical VW weak point even without any mods. Axle end leaks on swingarms are typical and almost impossible to eliminate if you follow the basic VW guidelines. Generally I use a generous dose of Silicone sealer around each seal before pressing (tapping) it into its seat in the tube end. Same application on both faces of the gaskets as each is assembled.

My suspect would be the trueness of the modified axle (on each side). Out of round? Out of True? Etc. What does a runout gauge show you and how does that compare to VW specifications for each value?]

Findings from the micro dimension testing will likely be indicative of the origin of the shortened axles - experienced machine house that does those mods on a daily basis, or a local machine shop who 'can make it work'. Machined tolerances can be perfect on, but if the processes of machining versus welding versus chilling, etc. are not done carefully in proper order, each can play havoc with machined tolerances in a flash. And if you machined them yourself, no intent is made to be critical of your work as I know what's involved in these major modifications.

Best luck - I know how frustrating it is to have problems when you have taken every care to do every step right on these type projects.

By the way - abosolutely gorgeous example of fine technical craftsmanship on the trike. I love it!
 
OOooooooops, and Thanks to Loner's Reminder.......I Love Your VW Trike....Great Looking Ride, and Great Looking Workmanship. I raced VWs on Oval Track for several Seasons...Swing Axles on Dirt, IRS on Asphalt.....I hope you find a cure for Your Oil Leaks....ThumbUp:10:.
 
I wonder if the added weight of the big tires and wheels might be causing the problem, putting too much strain on the axles so they are flopping around and tearing up the seals?ThumbUp
 
Thanks for the very detailed response. An experienced machine shop shortened the axels for me. One that races vw mid engine race car. However, that does not mean they are not out of the VW tolerances. What is the best way to check without removing them?

I thought it might be that the oil has less places to go due to the shortened axels and thus acted as over filled.

I have the disc conversion so already use sealent but am still using one gasket so will re do that one also with sealant.

So what happens if out of true, I assume oil leaks past the oil seal.

Glad you like the trike, it has taken me 4 years of weekends building it in my garage. More pictures here at the end of this post.

http://www.triketalk.com/forum/threads/2421-Post-Your-VW-Trike-Pics/page12
 
I might have found the problem. When installing the kit I was putting the big o ring over the bearing and then installing the outer assembly.

however, in the picture below you install it into the outer assembly. Could that be the problem?
 

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Ok. So just watched a video which shows the o ring going over the bearing as I have done.

so not the problem.
 
ThumbUp,,,Are you putting your spacer in the seal before sliding it on the axle and use liberal amounts of silicone ,,,,worked for me after two tries .
 
Hi

yes I am . However, used the gasket with only gasket sealer.

2 new seal kits on order and this time I am going to put loads of silicon and not use gasket.

I have one thought though, where I have installed disk kit, the disk bracket which sits between bearing carrier and outer carrier might mean there is to much space and not clamping bearing in place.
 
Not sure but I also have disc brakes and my problem was the sliding the seal over the spacer instead of putting spacer in seal first . It's very easy for the big o ring to jump off while mounting the carrier so be careful .


I know this is a silly question but you are putting 207 lbs of torque on the axle nut ,,,right .It took me two tries to get it right ,, so good luck .ThumbUpThumbUp
 
Well have 4 foot bar and tighten night basically until it feels nut will strip. It does line up with slot in castle nut to put in the split pin. Going to the next would I am sure be too much.

i have read that a 4 foot extension bar requires 54 pounds of pressure . This time I will measure that to be sure.
 
Based on the info I have found on the internet the large o ring goes on first followed by the gasket on top. But other info says the gasket goes on first.

which way is it?
 
Looking at more videos online I am not sure I am tightening it enough. I saw someone with a 4 foot bar jumping up and down on it. I am definitely not doing it up that tight.
 
:clapping:,,,May be the problem 207 lbs is a lot of torque . If you didn't it want pull your spacer and o rings in tight enough .


Don't know where your getting your seals but I have the part number in the shop that works with O'reilly's and they can get 'em overnight . If you need it PM me and I'll give it to you ,,, $8.95 ,,,,,,,hope this helps and good luck .ThumbUp
 
I have seldom had a problem with the lip seal or the bearing cap and oring.
Every problem I have ever had has been the inner most o ring. The one on the axle shafts that the seal sleeve compresses when tightened. Ever unit I have taken apart has had a different depth of chamfer on the back of spacer. All the seal kits I have ever bought have only had one oring size for it though. On any of my stuff it is typical to have to find a fatter oring for this one place.
Any time I have a leak it is a hub has gotten loose and this same inner oring will be bad. Seldom the lip seal. The outside of the seal sleeve is usually ok just the inside. Oil will be coming from between the axle and sleeve.
 
When I did mine part of the lip seal folded in because I didn't put the spacer in first , and mine small seal didn't fit the spacer exactly the very reason for black silicon . Without putting enough torque on the axle nut no amount of silicone will hold long . I think if you do all that has been said put enough torque on axle nut it should hold . GOOD LUCK ,,,and let us know .
 
Found this on the net

Another reason for leaks at rear axle seals is if trans vent hole on nose cone is blocked seal is usally easiest place for pressure that builds up will release.

is the above true?
If so Where is the vent?
 

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