OK Wiz. I used the last flash and made changes full +20% to -30%. It reacts the best at -15% so that is where it is.
I also still have an idle that wants to drift below 1000 when the trike is ridden for 30 minutes. It starts drifting after about 15-20 minutes. Not to the point of stalling but annoying. I had adjusted the idle schedule to 1016 at the higher 112 and up cells. Does not seem to make a difference.
The final cal had a beautiful graph and the bike is really strong just idles a little lower than I like and I may be hearing some knock at idle. Hard to tell but as soon as I add a touch of throttle it is gone.
Latest configuration:
IVO - 3 IVC - 3 Spark adv -2.5 mid range AE -15% Idle in high heat range set to 1016
Thoughts about the idle would be appreciated. I will be putting a couple hundred miles on her tomorrow.
Thanks Wiz.........
Ride Safe
2017 TG Black, Kuryakyn Industrial Grips, Bat Wing Vent cover and Brake pedal.
2013 TG, S&S 557G Cams, SE Black Push rods, AN Stage 1 AC, Freedom Performance Exhaust, tGlide -Clutch Wiz, 480 Evolution Spring, tGlide lifts & tour box relocator, ext. flbds, nam challenge coin, USMC Derby Cover & Squadron Patch COBRA Gas Cap Cover.
Upload your final calibration to a box.net account and post the link here.
Oh yeah...
Unplug the throttle wiring on the left side of your throttle body that's behind the air cleaner. Clean up the pins and put a little dielectric grease on the plug. Snap it back in. That should take care of your low hot idle issue.
Wiz that sounds like you may have seen this a time or two.
I cleaned the connector and pins with Electrical Clean and applied some dielectric.
I'll leave feedback after tomorrows ride
Ride Safe
2017 TG Black, Kuryakyn Industrial Grips, Bat Wing Vent cover and Brake pedal.
2013 TG, S&S 557G Cams, SE Black Push rods, AN Stage 1 AC, Freedom Performance Exhaust, tGlide -Clutch Wiz, 480 Evolution Spring, tGlide lifts & tour box relocator, ext. flbds, nam challenge coin, USMC Derby Cover & Squadron Patch COBRA Gas Cap Cover.
Yup... Happened to the wife's SG.
That plug also holds the intake air temp sensor. Corroded wire will mimic too hot of a reading the bike will give low idle.
Wiz, unbelievable you have done it again.
Idles at steady 1000 RPM after reaching cruise heat to cyl's
AE fixed the twist
Final Cal-001, ran a tank of 91 oct out today and it is getting 38 MPG mixed H&T
Wiz, 1 more question about plugs. Mine were white and most people agree that they should be light tan. If I wanted to enrich my Map by lowering the Lamda number. How much and should it be across the board or in specific cells.
I still need to check them with the Final Map installed.
Thank you very much. My hat is off to you
Last edited by Tuccandler; 06-23-2014 at 07:15 PM. Reason: 1 more question....
Ride Safe
2017 TG Black, Kuryakyn Industrial Grips, Bat Wing Vent cover and Brake pedal.
2013 TG, S&S 557G Cams, SE Black Push rods, AN Stage 1 AC, Freedom Performance Exhaust, tGlide -Clutch Wiz, 480 Evolution Spring, tGlide lifts & tour box relocator, ext. flbds, nam challenge coin, USMC Derby Cover & Squadron Patch COBRA Gas Cap Cover.
Reading plugs are fine for a carbureted system but not so for a EFI system. The EFI isn't a constant set fuel system like a carburetor is. If the plugs are oily or black due to an improper setting within the ECU/ECM then yes, you can read plugs. Light tan with proper settings within the ECU/ECM after several thousands of miles may be readable. Personally I think reading plugs is outdated.
Attached is my favorite Lambda scale to date. You may experiment after your trip with what suits you and your riding habits.
It may not be for everyone but I believe the 960 will keep you a bit more cool and give the bike a little more off idle. It also takes the 02 sensor out of the adaptive learning adjustments so there is consistency down low.
Enjoy your trip. Don't forget to take your TTS.
-Wiz