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Rear Pad Change
A few days ago, after reading about the increased braking effectiveness a change of brake pads made, I contacted the Trike Shop and the support folks sent me a set of Ultimax2 EBC pads for my 1997 GL1500A HT1500 Roadsmith trike conversion. The part number is DP105-OE and these pads are intended for an Alfa Spyder, BMW 6 Series, VW Beetle/Karman Ghia and Porsche 912 according to the packaging. Of course, there are two pads per set and two sets were sent.
The paperwork EBC includes says an "Installation DVD" is available on their website but doesn't list the actual website nor could I find one so I will attempt to explain how I changed pads since so many will likely want to do this change. I will say that after changing pads to the EBC Ultimax2, braking increased about 200-300 percent and the brakes are now totally acceptable.
Step One. Pop two-piece center trim from rims and remove. Loosen lug nuts; I used an 19mm deep impact socket and air impact driver.
Step Two. Block the front tire and jack up the side of the trike you will start on. You are supposed to use a scissors jack under the shock tower. I don't have one and used a transmission jack and since I didn't use the correct jack, one I got it up, I put a motorcycle jack under the center with a 4x4" positioned in the middle in the event my jack slipped for safety.
Step Three. Once the side of the trike is up sufficiently to allow the tire to clear under the rear fender, remove the loosened lug nuts and pull the tire off.
Step Four. You can't change pads with the wheel on as the rim is too deep to allow you to get at the rear of the caliper. With the rear of the caliper exposed, there is an opening that allows you change pads.
A Rotor
B Brake Pad
C. Slide Pins
D. Steel Vibration Covers
E. Anti-Vibration Clips
F. Retention Pins
First step to removing old pads is to remove the PART F Retention Pins. You may need to rotate the PART C Slide Pins a little so the holes in the pins face outward. Needle nose pliers are handy for removing the tiny Retention Pins.
Step 5. Push the Slide Pins out and as soon as you do, the Part E Anti-Vibration Clips will pop out as they are tensioned under the Slide Pins. Keep track of the Anti-Vibration Clips and put them with the Retention Pins. Remove the Slide pins completely.
Step 6. Pull out the Part B Brake Pads AND the Part D Steel Vibration Covers. Note that on the back of the Steel Vibration Covers will be a mark where the caliper piston PUSHES on the Steel Vibration Cover. You will use this mark to reinstall the Steel Vibration Cover properly upon reassembly.
Step 7. Both the inner and out Brake Pads are pushed towards the rotor by hydraulically actuated pistons. Take a LARGE SCREWDRIVER and pry the pistons back into the caliper body a tad to allow easier installation of the new pads.
Step 8. EBC gives you a small packet of Slide Pin lubricant. Put a small amount on the pins taking care NOT to get it on the pads. Install the pad closest to the side that the Slide Pin's head is on and push the pin through both the Steel Vibration Cover and Slide pin holes. Install the other Brake Pad and Steel Vibration Cover and finish pushing the pin all the way through. Rotate the pins so the holes that receive the Retention Pins are facing outwards and install the Retention Pins. Re-install the Anti-Vibration Clips by placing the clip over the Brake Pad with one leg under the Slide Pin and then move the other Anti-Vibration Clip leg under the other Slide pin. Re-install the wheel/tire in the reverse manner you removed them and remove your trike from the jack.
Step 9. Before going out to try the new pads, pump up the rear brakes by pushing the brake pedal down vigorously a bunch of times and carefully test that the rear brakes are working before hitting the road. The EBC pads have goop on them which de-glazes the rotors and the paper that came with the pads said the will squeal when breaking in the new pads. Thanks to Roadsmith/Trike Shop for the new pads which are a huge improvement.
wiredgeorge Mico TX
Originally Posted by tom w
