Sweeeet! Gotta love EFI for making a beast motor just start right up and idle.
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Sweeeet! Gotta love EFI for making a beast motor just start right up and idle.
Wish the phone could get the rumble but all it seems to get is the crack that inside the rumble.
I have it starting up well. But the first minute or so I hafta let it warm up. Touch the throttle and it dies right away. Once it gurgles a min or two it will go ahead and go. I can probably get that to smooth out though. Still tuning...
Is there any temperature sensing input to your megasquirt? Or an enrichment that can time out on a first start? Maybe and oil temp output that you can use for cold start? However this is rainy day stuff...
Yes.
I have head temp input.
I have that starting and warming it up.
The transition from cold start to warm up enrichment is working but the transition from warm up enrichment to throttle input is being troublesome.
I will eventually get it. Just have not had any time for couple weeks now. All I got to do last week is crank it up and listen to it rumble.
And that was pretty awesome ..Originally Posted by DeathBySnuSnu
I replaced an oil hose this morn.
Then burned another tank of gas.
The leak seemed to be gone for a while but now seem back at a lesser degree.
Will replace the small hose next.
exhaust pipe looks like a good gray color.....nice sound, every cylinder hits hard, liking the fancy crank pulley and bolt. ya, oil leaks on an aircooled make a little more smoke than on water cooled. no matter, water or oil ya gotta fix those leaks!
It looks like a possible leak somewhere on the braided lines, somehow? I've never used those trick -an fittings in a build. They're clean/sanitary looking and are supposed to be basically bulletproof from what I've read.
Can they fail to properly seat/seal together and if not, what would the possible reasons be for a failure?
Isn't it weird that in AMERICA, our flag and our culture offend so many people...but our benefits don't???
You have to build/assemble those hoses.
And it ain't just real easy either.
So I thought I had a leak on the end to hose joint in how it crams together and screws down to wedge tight on hose. I have a little hose left over. Took the ends of and put them on a new hose. I really did not see any problems with it.
I thought I had it but it is wet again where the drips blow back onto the coil area.
I will do the same with the smaller bypass hose next.
None of the other hoses leak at all.
The pipes are sooty for sure....have burnt clean some as I have run it more.
Big monster cams don't run clean down low. It will always be sooted up.
I was looking at this adapter fitting...the seat just did not seem right...like not round. Thought I could see tracks on it where it leaked.
So re-cut the seat taper on it.
Now to give it a try.
Now that it is daylight saving time I get to see some daylight. Only worked 9 Sunday so I got to burn another tank of gas that evening. It is getting used to running all loosening up. The tune is changing....it needs a bit different again.
Well....recutting that seat on the fitting fixed the oil drip. Never was the hoses to start with.
Now messing with the oil pressure. The pressure spring that came in the regulator is too much pressure. I put a different spring in and it seemed ok. But now that it is mostly broke in the pressure is lower than I want while hot. I have also taken the break on oil out. I now has 5w20 in it. Still dino oil but will be switching to synthetic after a couple thousand miles (next oil change). I might even try 0w10 oil.
But anyway....I wound up stretching the light spring and putting it back in. Will see what that does. I gotta search for a spring somewhere in the middle.
Stretching that light spring did put me in the range I want to be in. I am still going to find a spring of the right pressure.
But
The engine is broke in and the pressure not going too high.....so now I am working with high rpm.
And it has changed and is getting crazy.
Some back story.....remember when I was building the header. I did a lot of anti reversion can research and based mine from that. The math had it with cans on each cyl AND one on each collector.
Now when I put it all together I left the reducer cone off the collector can.
Why?
It sounded better....cooler....with the big rumble.
I dont know if the individual cans were doing anything or not.....but you very definitely knew the difference between "off cam" below 3000 rpm and "on cam" above 3500 rpm. I had been tuning on that bottom end and the transition to on cam. I had it pleasing to drive....enough power....sudden jolt onto the cam smoothed down...could drive it all day without ever getting on cam. Cool deep rumble and a definite place to short shift. Rumble and gurgle all around .......
So.....yesterday....
I put the reducer cones on the collector cans......which were internally the anti reversion chambers....just was not closed so were not functional....
Huge night and day difference..... I dont know how to describe the sound.....no rumble....more buzzy but lower in pitch....motorcycle...
So not as cool hot rod sound.....but good gawd....it is "on" all the time. No more off to on point. Just one massive RIP all the way to 7500 rpm before you know what to do with it. I doubt it has any more peak hp but....it pulls so hard all the way up that I am scared of breaking the gearbox.
So there is some merit to the anti reversion can theory.....
My girls liked the big rear floor boards that were also the heat shielding.....but I did not like the look.....they seemed out of place......not fit in.
So I made something else. A more hot rod styled floor board that is smaller but big enough. Then cobbled together bits of old motorcycle clamp on heat shield to cover the pipes.
I like it better and think it fits me better.
And a couple other neeto pics in the sun.....before the exhaust cones....
Dont let the anti gunners stare at that front end too long......lol
reply
looking good.......ya, floorboards fit the trike,look right on there.
I'm lost with the anti reversion business, but proof is in the performance!
The upper rpm range is where the math, science and physics live, sounds like good things goin on up there!
Now, got to keep the gears in the case where they belong.
Maybe post a side shot of that trike? thanks
What kinda side shot?
I suppose most of them are not square on sides.
side shot
thanks....about all your pics were front/rear or quartering, no sides that I remember. Have mentioned before....your weight distribution must be about perfect, solo or w/ passenger.
With all that new found power, weight distribution is super important.
Nice side profile, tank looks great. Like the exhaust running thru blank tranny case!
When looking at anything, to me,the side profile is the most important, that said, in my opinion, you nailed it!
196 at the wheels translates to around 225 at the crank.
And.
Breaks parts.....something is wrong with third.
Yep....I put a hurting on it.
That nut was not loose...no shaft endplay.
So it is definitely deep in there.
I am guessing a split/cracked 3-4 syncro hub.
I thought I had it built up to handle 200 crankshaft hp. But I made more than that.
Apart it comes.
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