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Yeah the front end has been slammed down pretty darned hard. The bottom bearing shows impact marks but everything has always stayed together.
We are only talking 40 more hp than before.
Maybe a bit more mushy on the bottom end with big higher rpm pull. Could turn out less twitchy.
Snu, you must be busy as heck man. Haven't seen ya post or update this in several days.
Well yes and no.
I have been busy with work. But i was off for the holiday. I spent all my time with my girls though.*
Have not worked on it for a week.
Hitting it a lick right now though.
Trying to design up an oil pump cover with the filter in a place that fits for me. Cut a couple sample patterns and just not there yet.
I have plans for where the remote filter was. So now it is going to point out from the pump cover.
It will look some like this. This is just a profile template to find the place the filter will fit. Not much room to work with. The brake master cylinder is on the opposite side mounted on the frame.
I will cut this shape out then do all the oil passages and other mill work on it.
Basic shape cut. Now to start whittling. Eventually it will look like a part.
Whittling on it.
It is now functional.
But i am gonna whittle on it a bit more. Make it look better and loose some weight.
Looking good ... Love watching a hunk of metal get turned into something functional and pretty.
I went with steel.
Hoping to maintain better clearance in the pump. Trying to get better hot idle oil pressure. If I can I will run a lighter weight oil.
Eventually it will all come together.
I have to assume your drilling out the "stud" you have for the filter spin on?
Originally Posted by stinger608
Guessing he already did that ... got a filter mounted .. LOL .. but good to remind/check ... I'd forget and smoke an engine for no oil pressure.
Yes it is all drilled. Just didn't take a pic of every detail step.
Loosing weight.*
Cut a little weight off the back area behind the filter.
Here it is.
Pump straight to filter and then out the top fitting to the cooler.
Still gotta plug the oil hole in the case where the oil is supposed to be going. Then drill and tap an external entry into the oil gally.
Snu, take a look at this page in the EMPI catalog:
http://vwcatalog.empius.com/vwcatalog/2014/46.html
Just below the "oil system fittings and clamps" you'll see part number 16-9517 "oil return adapter kit." This replaces the rear oil bypass giving the user no need to drill into the oil galley area of the block.
Very simple part to use.
Here is one for sale on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/EMPI-16-9517...-/261821752514
And here it is on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/EMPI-16-9517-R.../dp/B00BYHFWMO
I don't think i have the room for that to hang down.
I ain't skeered. I will drill a hole in the case for the oil.
Drilled tapped the case.
Mocking up parts. Testing fits and clearances.
Coil is right in the middle of the clutch linkage.
Never did get the clutcj link to work out the way I wanted.
So much for my fancy smancy coil mount.
Re made the mount and moved the coil.
Now sorting out the electrical bits and pieces.
Going to eliminate some of the extra stuff I had from the gold wing.
No electrical on the rh bar.
All on the lh that I am gonna use.
But i am gonna add all the electronic for the fuel injection and distributer less ignition.
So on to mounting this stuff, hide some and only the cool looking stuff sticking out.
Got some signals off ebay.
Plan on using the dual filament reds as brake tail and turn.
No center mounted light.
As the motorcycle switch does not have the compound contacts like an old car did back when signal and brakes were a shared filament, I got a trailer light adapter.
This should combine the curcuit.
Looking good snu .. way cool.
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