Anyone else?

The parts that you have blasted look amazing bro!!!!!!

Can't wait to start seeing some build pictures................Coming soon by the looks of the advancement going on. :p
 
What other benefits are realized by painting the cyls & heads, (other than the obvious good looks)?

The benefits are real thin. As in not much.

The absolute best for thermal transfer is clean rough sandblasted metal. As long as it stays perfectly clean, no rust, corrosion, dirt, oil, it will move the heat the best.

In the real world there is no way to reasonably maintain that state. Once it leaves the pristine condition it is then no better that some alternatives.

A thin, i mean thinnnnn and no primer, coat of flat black is nearly as conductive as clean bare. You can more reasonably maintain cleanliness and touch up as needed. It is not very pretty.

Next would be a little thicker coat of colored engine paint. At this point you will have lost several percent of your cooling over clean bare. But as clean bare wont stay that way you are probably the same as dirty bare.

Then fully primed and fully painted very pretty you will have lost a large percentage of cooling.

Next is powder coated which is very insulating and can kill your cooling to the point of possible engine death.

Next is chrome and actually not just insulating but reflecting back inward.

So there is no perfect solution, especially if you want it pretty.
I hear of some thermally conducting powder coat, but know nothing about it.
I am going to try the thermal transfer ceramic coating.
It does insulate a bit, but is supposed to be better than dirty bare and close to flat black. I choose it for its cleanable finish. You ever have ceramic coated parts like headers? The dirt, oil, stains just rinse right off and the coating stays a long time.
 
I will get close to that magic 200hp mark.
I might not make it all the way there without a true merged header. It will probably be a 1,3 and 2,4 split header. Not to sure I can get it over 100% VE with half the motor in each collector.
That being said, I think I will have drivable power not just peak drag race power.
 
Not that it has ever been a problem with the support of the input shaft. It has always been on my adapter bearing and the pilot bearing. It is not as long as this pic makes it look. It is about 17 Inches.

20150824_175600_zpsjf99c2es.jpg

So with my further increase in hp I am making a mid support. Incomplete, just started this morn.

20160402_112437_zpsy2iivtw0.jpg

Hacked room into the case for a bearing of the style in the adapter. Also moved a bolt hole.

20160402_112404_zps2kchscmg.jpg

20160402_112416_zps9st4uq58.jpg

Fitting like this.

Still some work to do.

Bore the bearing hole, make a retainer and grease hole.

20160402_112935_zpstzfmg0oi.jpg

20160402_112917_zpsblw9b6n1.jpg
 
Whittled on it a little more. Made the

Bearing bore.

20160404_183708_zpsiszymuoz.jpg

20160404_190600_zpsm462ka6i.jpg

Some more holes in the adapter plate. *Access to the bolts for new support.*

20160405_174744_zpsv79jkq8r.jpg

Polished up a rocker for the front end.

Thinking the disc, caliper and stay all on one side.

Then this on the other side.

20160403_184038_zpsp432wr8w.jpg

20160403_204729_zpswxkjiqkj.jpg
 
Making this.

Stab this up in the bore the pressure piston goes in on the case.

That should end its entire function and move all the oil control to the external regulator.*

20160511_182822_zpskw95w26p.jpg

Also plug off yet another oil port.

The bypass port and an aluminum pipe plug.

20160505_173712_zpsbqnhbpg0.jpg

Temporary covers for the running trans.

Prepping for blast and paint.

20160518_181019_zpszfkwxmmn.jpg
 
Those end castings I bored a few pics back....

Pressed right on there today.

Right crush fixed.that up.

And a 100 ton press helps a bit too.

20160531_173145_zpssvv23dbe.jpg

20160531_173545_zpslc2cszzc.jpg
 

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