I have gone as close as 3 inches and still okay,[u-joint to u-joint]
How short can I make my driveline and still not bind the u-joint during normal suspension travel?
Automotive engine and tranny to matching rear end ...
I want to get them as close as I can and put the seating in front of the engine to put the least weight on the front wheel ...
I have gone as close as 3 inches and still okay,[u-joint to u-joint]
And here I was worried about getting as close as 18'' ...
The Stallion looks like it is less than 18 inches but I have not measured it.
Stallion #406 // 2013 Tri-Glide
i also have been as short as 3" worked good
I've seen several drivelines on heavy equipment under 8". One was just the 2 yokes welded together making the joints about 5" apart. HE joints are considerably bigger than we use, so I wouldn't see anything wrong with 3" if properly aligned.
NM
Also, when you make the driveline, don't for get to "TIME "them to make them work properly,
You probably know this, but I've seen it overlooked on many custom car projects. Make sure, that the angle of both u joints are the same. (The degree of bend) You can adjust this by tilting the axle. By have haveing both u joints at the same angle (although opposite to each other) it will help cancel out any driveshaft vibrations due to the u joints, especialy at sharp angles. Totally seperate from driveshaft balanceing. Length should not be an issue.
In memory of my brother Steve....
Just wondered because I didn't want the joints to bind if the rear end bottoms out on the stops ... I still wanna have a good 8 inches or so of travel up and down ... I like extra give ... I am also penciling up a gooseneck trailer design ... I figure hitch placement to be about a foot or so forward of dead center above the rear axle ...
Did I mention I might use the rear end off my 3/4 ton? ... A bit wide but what the heck ...
Goosneck hitch placement at 1 ft is too much ahead if the axel. Should be more like 4 - 6" depending on how heavy you want the front end. I think you'll find the gear ratio too low in a 3/4T rear axel. It'll give you lots of power, but it'll cut fuel economy & top end. Remember, you're not moving 8 - 10,000 lbs now, but more like 1,000 to maybe 1500 lb with all automotive parts. Rear gears can be as high as 2.75:1. You'll probably find the F250 rear is somewhere around 3.75:1 - 4.11:1 or even lower if it was a high GVW truck. 'Couse, now if you use realy tall tires --! Check the rear ratio on a GW or any of the shaft drive bikes & use a ratio that's close to what they use.
NM
F250 no mods ... 4.11 rear ... She does about 60 mph around 2800 rpm ... C6 automatic ... I figure I will be cutting gvw by at least 2,500 ... Thing is engine weight ... Diesels are HEAVY ... Mileage will go up a bit with weight reduction and exhaust mod ... thinking of either 8 singles @ 1 3/4" x 4' or a true dual in 3" x 4' ... Noise gonna make that decision for me ... Nice thing is I can run B100 with no mods ... ... I could probably mix 30w and moonshine ...
Should I narrow the rearend (track) or keep it stock because of long wheelbase? ... Probably 2 feet more than a Stallion ...
good info here
Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Driveline 101
did some quick calulations with 8 in of travel if the trans and diff at same hight to start with and diff will move up 4 and down four, to be in the 7 degree area you need about a 33 in long shaft
if the trans is only 4 in above the dif now the shaft needs to be about 60in to stay at 7 degrees but if you go the 15 degrees you will be back to about 34 inch shaft
stace