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Thread: Champion s/a fluid change.

  1. #21
    70+ Posts kawabeemer's Avatar
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    Find a piece of clear vinyl hose that will fit over the conical spout on a 1 quart bottle of gear oil. Make sure the hose is long enough to allow you to turn the bottle up-side-down so you can squash the bottle to force the lube thru the hose into the diff.

  2. #22
    1000+ Posts Shimpy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikerbillone View Post
    Thanks Bob, and shimpy, how did you solve your problem, just curious.
    I'm going with the oil suction gun in Harbor Freight. Simply draw back the plunger to pull up the oil and then push it into the hole.
    LES
    Prowler # 67
    Iron Butt #33529
    U.S. Naval Cryptologic Veterans Ass'n
    Not sure if I have free time or I just forgot everything I was suppose to do.
    Retired and highly recommend it.

  3. #23
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    Default champion s/a fluid change

    Quote Originally Posted by pcombe View Post
    Champion s/a fluid change.

    Was the subject of the original post.
    perhaps I missed something?

    ------------------------------------------------------

    Taken from champion website, check out item # 4

    This is for my trike!

    -------------------------------------------------------


    TRIKE CONVERSION KIT
    HARLEY-DAVIDSON
    ®
    FLH/FLT & SOFTAIL (FLST)
    Champion Trikes
    (800) 875 0949
    www.championtrikes.com
    Page 1 of 2 Revision 12 November 2008
    Owner’s Maintenance Notes
    1.
    Tire Pressure and Rotation:
    Keep the nominal tire pressure at about 20-25psig. It is not necessary to periodically rotate the trike tires unless you
    experience unusual tire wear.
    2.
    Bearing Lubrication.
    Your Swing Arm, external differential and axle bearings are sealed and do not require greasing. However, should you
    experience unusual differential or axle bearing noise you should take your trike to a Champion Trike Dealer or to your
    motorcycle mechanic for a checkup.
    3.
    Body Lubrication.
    There are no grease fittings on the trike body and no required body lubrication points.
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    4.
    Differential lubrication.
    Your differential is a sealed unit and comes filled with high-pressure grease. No maintenance is required.

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    5.
    Brakes.
    Check your brake system fluid level every 3,000 miles and top-off as necessary. Inspect rear disc brake pads every 10,000
    miles and replace as necessary. Pads are Volkswagen Part # D101P
    6.
    Drive Train.
    Inspect your drive belt as recommended in your motorcycle Owner’s Manual. When properly tensioned after the trike
    conversion, the belt should “deflect” about 1/2 to 5/8 inches when pressed with a force of 10 pounds. Do not use
    commercial belt dressing compounds on the belt: these compounds are designed for friction, not toothed, belts and can
    collect dirt and sand.
    7.
    Suspension System.
    FLH/FLT
    : The suspension system retains your two OEM shocks and is designed to give you the best ride with a load
    of no more than 500 pounds (passengers plus cargo plus trailer tongue weight). Keep the air pressure in the shocks in the
    range of 30-70 psig:
    Softail (FLST)
    : The suspension system retains your single OEM shock and adds two coil-over “helper” mechanical
    shocks. The system is designed to give you the best ride with a load of no more than 500 pounds (passengers plus cargo
    plus trailer tongue weight). There is a pre-load adjuster ring on each new shock that is factory-set at the “lowest” setting,
    for the softest ride. Changing this setting will result in a stiffer ride.
    8.
    EZ-Steer (rake kit):
    If your trike is equipped with Champion’s EZ-Steer, the bearings are a wear item. You should follow your motorcycle
    manufacturer’s recommended front-end triple-tree maintenance requirements. Generally these call for an initial service at
    1,000 miles followed by periodic maintenance at 10,000 mile intervals.
    9.
    Electrical:
    TRIKE CONVERSION KIT
    HARLEY-DAVIDSON
    ®
    FLH/FLT & SOFTAIL (FLST)
    Champion Trikes
    (800) 875 0949
    www.championtrikes.com
    Page 2 of 2 Revision 12 November 2008
    Your trike is pre-wired for a trailer connection. The harness is just below the trunk door on the underside of the body. The
    wiring is as follows: (Please confirm color coding on your Trike)
    Old Harness New Universal Harness
    (From Mid 2007)
    Running lights Confirm by testing BROWN
    Brake lights RED RED
    Turn signal, right GREEN GREEN
    Turn signal, left YELLOW YELLOW
    Accessory BLUE BLUE
    Ground Confirm by testing
    (White or Black) BLACK
    10.
    Basic Motorcycle Maintenance.
    You should follow the periodic maintenance requirements prescribed in your motorcycle Owner’s Manual for those
    components and systems not replaced by the Champion Trike Conversion Kit. Your trike kit should be checked by a
    professional trike conversion company every 5,000 miles. Every 10,000 miles you should check the trike kit fasteners for
    tightness.
    11.
    Specifications
    Overall Length: 66”
    Body Length: 92”
    Wheel Base: 53”
    Load Capacity: 620 Lb
    Tire Size (15”): 205 / 70 / R15
    Wheel Size (15”) (4 lug) Offset +35 mm 15x7JJ 4x4.5 – (Current Installations – Alum Rear End)
    Wheel Size (15”) (5 lug) Offset +35 mm 15x7JJ 5x4.5 – (Later Installations – Black Rear End)
    Tire Size (16”) 215 / 60 / R16
    Wheel Size (16”) (5 lug) Offset +40 mm 16x7JJ 5x4.5 – (First Installations – Black Rear End)
    Tire Pressure: 20 PSI
    Suspension: See paragraph 7 above
    Rear Differential: Custom-built rear differential utilizing OEM drive belt.
    Brakes: Original front plus 2 high performance disc brakes at rear.
    Storage Capacity: 3.75 cubic feet. 2 full-face helmets and additional storage.
    My champion kit says not maintenance required unless there is a leak.

  4. #24
    13500+ Posts FuzzyWuzHe's Avatar
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    Now that's a horse of a different color ... so to speak

  5. #25
    1000+ Posts Shimpy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trail Blazer View Post
    My champion kit says not maintenance required unless there is a leak.
    I guess whatever rear end they use requires different service. Mine says change fluid every 30 to 35,000 miles. I was told it was a Nisson.
    LES
    Prowler # 67
    Iron Butt #33529
    U.S. Naval Cryptologic Veterans Ass'n
    Not sure if I have free time or I just forgot everything I was suppose to do.
    Retired and highly recommend it.

  6. #26
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    Default s/a fluids

    Quote Originally Posted by Trail Blazer View Post
    My champion kit says not maintenance required unless there is a leak.
    xxxxx wrong, wrong.


    my first statement on champion a no maintenance required is WRONG I thought about it and looked it up. it says check every 10,000 mils. and change every 30 to 35000 mils. mine is a 2000 gl1500 se with a 2012 champion kit.

  7. #27
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    Default SDuggestion filling independant Champion Trike rear end oil

    Quote Originally Posted by Shimpy View Post
    It's recommended to change the differential fluid every 30,000 miles. I'm coming up on that soon and after looking at it I'm wondering how to get the new fluid in better than squirting it in with an oil can. The filler hole is horizontal with the ground and no way to get a funnel there and pour it in.

    I'll use the squirt can unless someone can give me a better idea.
    I have a 2018 kit for my 2006 Goldwing that after 30,000 miles needed a rear u-joint 437-G replacement. While beneath the trike i

    I found it necessary to change the oil. No room to fill at top due to only enough room to barely get my hand to remove plug. Solution was a drill operated pump I bought from Amazon and clear hose with a red rubber short piece of hose inserted in the end that I reduced down by grinding it down on my bench grinder to fit snugly inside the drain hole. I pumped the synthetic 80-140 oil into the drain hole and quickly used my thumb to retain the oil before replacing the plug. Job successful and simple with the help of my wife holding the container that we poured the 2 quarts of oil in to monitor the oil remaining.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Judge Judy View Post
    I really have no idea what I am talking about, but would something like this work? Just trying to help...

    http://t.harborfreight.com/gear-oil-....google.com%2F
    I have a Champion independent suspension. Due to the difficult top filler hole making it nearly impossible I pumped 2 quarts in at my drain hole with a battery drill pump. I QUICKLY pulled a custom built plug fitting i made out placing my thumb over the hole before replacing the plug. DONE!!! https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....OXVYL._AC_.jpg

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by lickskellet View Post
    I have a 2018 kit for my 2006 Goldwing that after 30,000 miles needed a rear u-joint 437-G replacement. While beneath the trike i

    I found it necessary to change the oil. No room to fill at top due to only enough room to barely get my hand to remove plug. Solution was a drill operated pump I bought from Amazon and clear hose with a red rubber short piece of hose inserted in the end that I reduced down by grinding it down on my bench grinder to fit snugly inside the drain hole. I pumped the synthetic 80-140 oil into the drain hole and quickly used my thumb to retain the oil before replacing the plug. Job successful and simple with the help of my wife holding the container that we poured the 2 quarts of oil in to monitor the oil remaining.
    https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....OXVYL._AC_.jpg

  10. #30
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    Default S/A Rear End Fluid Change

    I use a Plastic Syringe that's 150 milliter (5 oz volume) and about a 12-15 inch pc Plastic tubing with an ID that will fit tight on the Syringe Tip. I also cut the tip back to as large an ID of tubing that with fit tight.

    Then remove the Syringe plunger and fill it with fluid (4.5 oz) Put the plunger back just enough to hold it in place while putting a finger on the tube end. Then get under the Trike, place the tubing end into the fill hole and squeeze the plunger. You will have to do this several times in order to get the level of fluid you want.

    You can actually do this even when the and you are upside down. Works for me for many years.

  11. #31
    30+ Posts Ramnight's Avatar
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    I an not sure about the SA, but I changed the fluid in my IRS this past weekend, and it was real tight getting at the top fill plug to remove it.

    I took a 1/4" piece of soft flexable tubing like they use in fish tank air lines about 16 inches long, and glued a short piece of 3/8" tubing on one end for the bottle of Mobile-1 75/140 fluid cap to fit into. I snaked the tubing between the frame and fender into the fill hole. It worked real good.

  12. #32
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    Default 2006 Goldwing champion trike

    Looking for advice how to check differential fluid on our trike. AZ shop bills 3-4 hours labor to change fluid Ouch ! Hard to believe.

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tmarsh1 View Post
    Looking for advice how to check differential fluid on our trike. AZ shop bills 3-4 hours labor to change fluid Ouch ! Hard to believe.
    Welcome to Trike Talk ’Tom..👍👍
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    2019 Tri-Glide.......

  14. #34
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    Champion used about 3 different mfg for their axles.I think most of the last s/a were toyota.There will be a check plug no matter who's it is.Mine was right on the back and the drain on the bottom.
    Do not argue with an idiot.He will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
    Its dog eat dog world and i'm wearing milkbone underwear.
    1989 GL1500 Goldwing (SOLD)
    2006 GL1800 CSC

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc H View Post
    Champion used about 3 different mfg for their axles.I think most of the last s/a were toyota.There will be a check plug no matter who's it is.Mine was right on the back and the drain on the bottom.
    Thanks Rhino & Marc. Champion AZ says you have to pump old fluid out and new fluid in which seems to align with some of the old posts Ive seen. 3-4 hours labor is significant which tells me they have to dis-assemble much of the top end for access ? Tks. Tom

  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tmarsh1 View Post
    Thanks Rhino & Marc. Champion AZ says you have to pump old fluid out and new fluid in which seems to align with some of the old posts Ive seen. 3-4 hours labor is significant which tells me they have to dis-assemble much of the top end for access ? Tks. Tom
    attached pic below,, not sure if I did it correctly
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  17. #37
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    I think yours is IRS not S/A so disregard my post.The post above your first from ramknight sounds like an option.
    Do not argue with an idiot.He will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
    Its dog eat dog world and i'm wearing milkbone underwear.
    1989 GL1500 Goldwing (SOLD)
    2006 GL1800 CSC

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