Using Headlight wiring to install Highway Lights

I've been told I can take the Low beam wire to piggyback Highway lights. I have a set of 2 wire Halogens I am mounting on the crash bar with a switch. Can I take the hot off the headlight and ground the other to the frame? And while I'm asking {begging?} which wire would be the low beam? {VTX Trike}

Thanks - jc
 
You do not want to do that. You will overload the wiring. Best way is to add a relay, wiring from the battery, a switch and a fuse. You can use the low beam power to trip the normally closed relay so the aux lights will go out during the start sequence.
 
You do not want to do that. You will overload the wiring. Best way is to add a relay, wiring from the battery, a switch and a fuse. You can use the low beam power to trip the normally closed relay so the aux lights will go out during the start sequence.

I had planned on using a fused line....but if I come off the battery and forget to turn them off, won't they stay on using the way you suggest?

Thanks - jc
 
No they will go out because when the power from the headlight to the relay is removed by turning off of the switch the relay will also turn off along with the highway lights.
 
It's simple. The low beam hot wire is used to only trigger the relay then the relay gets it power from the battery. If the switch is turned off there is no power going to the relay and it can not trigger the relay for the power to come from the battery.
Maybe this will help some in understanding.
 
The start button actually has two functions. When you first touch it, before you spin the starter, the lights go off. this removes the load so the starter gets all the juice. So, when you push the button and the headlight goes out it will kill the juice to the highway relay and turn them off also. When the bike starts and you let go of the button the lights come back on as do the highway lights. the relay is an electric switch.
 
If you were thinking about adding some other electrical accessories later this might be a better option for wiring.
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/3_Circuit/3_circuit.html

That looks like a hell of a solution! And as I am "Electric Stupid" I am missing how the switched versions are not live if it goes straight to the battery....Sorry for the ignorance....jc

- - - Updated - - -

That looks like a hell of a solution! And as I am "Electric Stupid" I am missing how the switched versions are not live if it goes straight to the battery....Sorry for the ignorance....jc

OOPS - Never mind - Just understood the relay.....dumb as a stump
 
I've been told I can take the Low beam wire to piggyback Highway lights. I have a set of 2 wire Halogens I am mounting on the crash bar with a switch. Can I take the hot off the headlight and ground the other to the frame? And while I'm asking {begging?} which wire would be the low beam? {VTX Trike}

Thanks - jc

Be careful what your doing old son, Switches,relays etc.. are only rated for so many amps. Overload them and the trouble is just beginning. The light circuit is also affected by brake and running lights, signals etc.

When I built my trike I only added one more stop and running light but it was to much and I started burning out brake switches.
I had to go with a brake switch from a car for the rear brake system and after burning out a couple front brake switches I finally had to wire in an amp reducer and run the front brake switch off the battery direct.

I think I would want to use a new circuit altogether? It's up to you but that would be my thought.:Shrug:
 
Additionally one more thing.
Buy a additional trailer isolator, and just use the leads from that to power any and all aux lighting.
The Iso will pull power right off the battery.
the Iso will give you all of the connections you would ever need.
Aux
R-turn
L-turn
Brake

The simplest one to install is the one from electrical connections, Its plug and play/
 

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