Rake Kit In

[TnHeath]

Finished the installation of the rake kit I got from Zook. A quality product in every way. The difference is dramatic....I thought it might help a bit in deep curves but it really is like going from manual to power steering in car. Thanks Zook for a great kit.

This is was my first time working on the steering head. Took me 12 hours counting watching Fred Harmon's videos, fishing bolts out of the FB6's innards, found 2 out of three, that one will come out in the rapture.

Most difficult part part was getting the lower race seated straight and fully in. Next time I will have the special tools needed. I used the old race and a long piece of hard wood to seat it. That was easier to wield the hammer on....just no room close to the beast. I had a bearing and race driver kit but none of the collets fit the races.

Yes, is was scary for me to attemp this but I wanted to learn first hand how to do it and was not willing to pay the dealer 4 hours labor.

Thanks for all your suggestions in reference to my question of HeliBars or a rake kit? Without a doubt it is the rake kit!

 

[Papa Zook]

Glad you like the rake kit...its not a super easy job but its doable isn't it?

 

[pcombe]

Finished the installation of the rake kit I got from Zook. A quality product in every way. The difference is dramatic....I thought it might help a bit in deep curves but it really is like going from manual to power steering in car. Thanks Zook for a great kit.

This is was my first time working on the steering head. Took me 12 hours counting watching Fred Harmon's videos, fishing bolts out of the FB6's innards, found 2 out of three, that one will come out in the rapture.

Most difficult part part was getting the lower race seated straight and fully in. Next time I will have the special tools needed. I used the old race and a long piece of hard wood to seat it. That was easier to wield the hammer on....just no room close to the beast. I had a bearing and race driver kit but none of the collets fit the races.

Yes, is was scary for me to attemp this but I wanted to learn first hand how to do it and was not willing to pay the dealer 4 hours labor.

Thanks for all your suggestions in reference to my question of HeliBars or a rake kit? Without a doubt it is the rake kit!

Nice job!
Kudos to you, proud of ya!

I used the closed side of a big socket and a piece of wood to seat mine after starting it with a rubber hammer.

The experience is worth it.

The instructions that came with the tree I got from Zook were pretty easy to follow, It had it's moments but I'm glad I did It.

 

[TnHeath]

Glad you like the rake kit...its not a super easy job but its doable isn't it?

Yes, if I can do it most anybody can....did a ton of reading in this forum and the GL1800 and FB6 ones. And thanks to you and your helpful insights.

I've noticed the front suspension is a bit harsher...I believe some of this is due to the new Avon trike tire which has a stronger sidewall. I have decreased the tire pressure from 42 to 38.
I am also considering disabling the Anti-dive.

Biking is an ever increasing learning process!

 

[Rev Ray]

Would like to know results after anti-dive disable as my son who rides two wheel did his and is pleased.

 

[pcombe]

Yes, if I can do it most anybody can....did a ton of reading in this forum and the GL1800 and FB6 ones. And thanks to you and your helpful insights.

I've noticed the front suspension is a bit harsher...I believe some of this is due to the new Avon trike tire which has a stronger sidewall. I have decreased the tire pressure from 42 to 38.
I am also considering disabling the Anti-dive.

Biking is an ever increasing learning process!

I kept my anti dive, even made some one off parts to keep it. Anti dive helps in sudden braking. One thing to watch out for? If you decrease the front tire pressure you may find the wind has more affect on your steering.
I found I had to keep my inflation at the max. Even though the sidewall is stronger decreasing air pressure will allow to flex. Mine rides a little rougher because I am using a rear tire turned backward rotation.
I notice it more in town but have no problem with it once on the highway.

 

[TnHeath]

Update

Finished the installation of the rake kit I got from Zook. A quality product in every way. The difference is dramatic....I thought it might help a bit in deep curves but it really is like going from manual to power steering in car. Thanks Zook for a great kit. This is was my first time working on the steering head. Took me 12 hours counting watching Fred Harmon's videos, fishing bolts out of the FB6's innards, found 2 out of three, that one will come out in the rapture. Most difficult part part was getting the lower race seated straight and fully in. Next time I will have the special tools needed. I used the old race and a long piece of hard wood to seat it. That was easier to wield the hammer on....just no room close to the beast. I had a bearing and race driver kit but none of the collets fit the races. Yes, is was scary for me to attemp this but I wanted to learn first hand how to do it and was not willing to pay the dealer 4 hours labor. Thanks for all your suggestions in reference to my question of HeliBars or a rake kit? Without a doubt it is the rake kit!

UPDATE:

1. Anti-dive disabled with the hole drilled in a nickel (do a search here and on the GL1800 forum--there is a ton of information).

Unbelievable how much smoother the trike rides, just about as smooth as my previous '12 wing. Yes, there is more dive when you brake using the rear brakes...but it is manageable. It felt like a whole different trike. My next step will be just the Progressive springs to compensate for not having the anti-dive function.

Like Zook says about the rake kit, "it will steer like a Corvette." He's not exaggerating!

2. Front tire pressure back to 39 cold, which means 42-43 hot.

3. Superbrace reinstalled. Does a great job, just as it did on the GL1800 I had previously. You can feel it holding the bike in curves.

4. No start out wobble at all, even coming off steep right angle-camber dips. And no 40 MPH wobble when you remove you hands from the bars. Probably due to the tapered bearings that comes with the rake kit.

I had the feeling I was back on my GL1800 rather than a trike.

I am am as tickled as a kid at Christmas with a new BB gun. After 5,000 k. I was beginning to think I had made a mistake in replacing the wing with a F6B trike, but not anymore. I feel like heading back out on Route 66!

 

[Papa Zook]

Yes on the front tire air pressure...keep it at max recommended. Also, I would think twice about the Progressive spring swap...you'll be really surprised at how harsh it is after you make the swap...and a hint to those doing a rake kit install, if you dont have a race driver tool, use an 1 3/4" or 2" trailer ball and a hammer to tap your lower race into the neck. The ball will perfectly distribute the contact area within the race and will seat it perfectly with a few moderately sharp whacks with no damage to the race. Just make sure it is started straight and whack that baby in..also if you'll stick the race in the freezer the night before it will go in much easier..ThumbUp

 

[pcombe]

Yes on the front tire air pressure...keep it at max recommended. Also, I would think twice about the Progressive spring swap...you'll be really surprised at how harsh it is after you make the swap...and a hint to those doing a rake kit install, if you dont have a race driver tool, use an 1 3/4" or 2" trailer ball and a hammer to tap your lower race into the neck. The ball will perfectly distribute the contact area within the race and will seat it perfectly with a few moderately sharp whacks with no damage to the race. Just make sure it is started straight and whack that baby in..also if you'll stick the race in the freezer the night before it will go in much easier..ThumbUp

also if you'll stick the race in the freezer the night before it will go in much easier..ThumbUp

You bet it will! Working heavy equipment we had a big parts freezer for bearings and races. In the field we used liquid nitrogen. (nasty stuff)

 

[TnHeath]

Yes on the front tire air pressure...keep it at max recommended. Also, I would think twice about the Progressive spring swap...you'll be really surprised at how harsh it is after you make the swap...and a hint to those doing a rake kit install, if you dont have a race driver tool, use an 1 3/4" or 2" trailer ball and a hammer to tap your lower race into the neck. The ball will perfectly distribute the contact area within the race and will seat it perfectly with a few moderately sharp whacks with no damage to the race. Just make sure it is started straight and whack that baby in..also if you'll stick the race in the freezer the night before it will go in much easier..ThumbUp

Thanks for the advice, I'll do more research on the springs...I did keep the races in the freezer for 5-6 hours....there is no way I could have gotten them in otherwise. I have the trailer balls but it never occurred to me to use them.

BTW, I initially seated the bearings at 35 ft-lbs and I could barely turn the forks after swinging the forks back and forth 10-12 times....just felt too tight....so I reset the torque to 25, then finally to 20. I know the Honda manual calls for 28-30 something, and you've said tapered bearings can stand a torque of 35-40. I feel no looseness or clucking sounds... But I suspect I'll need to go back and reset the torque later as they loosen up.

Thanks for all your wisdom!