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Thread: First Over 100* Ride after Tuning

  1. #1
    13000+ Posts FuzzyWuzHe's Avatar
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    Default First Over 100* Ride after Tuning

    I did a highway ride yesterday, about 30 miles, then 2.5 miles to Denny's for dinner. I took my phone out and took this picture to show bike temps.

    Top Left - Ambient Temp

    Middle Left - This tank MPG's

    Bottom Left - Lifetime MPG's (since installing power vision @ 525 miles, now at 7180 miles

    Top Right - Coolant Temp

    Middle Right - Head Temp

    Bottom Right - Engine Temp

    All readings taken from bikes ECM

    Even at 102*, I get little or no heat on my legs (I should also say I had shorts on yesterday). The engine temp management thingie comes on at every light, when temp above 80*, but its not like my Ultra. When the Ultra (09) came on, the bike was almost un rideable, couldn't hardly keep it running, and the heat on my legs was unbearable. With the 15 Tri, I feel almost no heat on my legs, a little from the old style air cleaner (oval), but, not bad at all, only an issue if I snug me knees against it. The only negative is just a slightly rougher idle, but not bad at all. Anyway ... I am really thrilled with my current tune.

    Just as a side note, it's the one Kevin of DK is using, I sent it to him when he had issues in New Mexico with the wind and his new slip ons (he hasn't done any auto tuning yet, waiting for his final configuration) He's getting good mpg's and his trike is running cool (he's done many mods to make it even cooler).

    I did a couple "normal" auto tuning runs, about an hour each, in town, country roads and highway.

    Then I did some additional auto tuning around town between 2k-3k in most gears for knock count.

    I also did several tune runs at 35,40,45,50,55 mph in 4th, 45,50,55,60,65 in 5th, 50,55,60,65,70,75,80,85 in 6th. The additional tuning at various speeds was done at about a mile at each speed in each gear. The additional tuning in various gears and speeds was done in response to people riding behind me complaining about "gas fumes". I don't think I was running real rich, since on a 1000 mile ride I averaged 35.6 mpg, but who knows. Since doing the addition tuning mileage has actually gone up some and riders behind me say they don't get the "fumes" anymore, so maybe I was running rich.

    Anyway, I thought about doing some additional tuning when we hit 100*, but after yesterdays ride, I think I'm good.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  2. #2
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    That is good info FW, I am about to start the tuning process with my PV and would like a baseline to work off of

  3. #3
    Gone But Never Forgotten dirtdobber's Avatar
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    That's really good.
    Got the free tuned today, didn't get what I had hopped for but close.
    80.27 HP with 92.41 tq

    But a lot cooler, I can ride with short pants again,
    http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c5...an_cross_f.jpg
    20015 freewheeler
    2005 113 pro twin super glide
    2010 ss106 wide glide
    2004 1800 VTX custom
    2012 GW RS

  4. #4
    13000+ Posts FuzzyWuzHe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtdobber View Post
    But a lot cooler, I can ride with short pants again,

    Riding in shorts is a must for me ...

    - - - Updated - - -

    I'd like to put my tri on a dyno ... see what kind of numbers it's making ... maybe someday ... but it's quicker than with the stage 1 ... and much cooler.

  5. #5
    450+ Posts irmagoo's Avatar
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    good stuff fuzzy!!!
    magoo

  6. DKCustoms postbit
  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by FuzzyWuzHe View Post
    I did a highway ride yesterday, about 30 miles, then 2.5 miles to Denny's for dinner. I took my phone out and took this picture to show bike temps.

    Top Left - Ambient Temp

    Middle Left - This tank MPG's

    Bottom Left - Lifetime MPG's (since installing power vision @ 525 miles, now at 7180 miles

    Top Right - Coolant Temp

    Middle Right - Head Temp

    Bottom Right - Engine Temp

    All readings taken from bikes ECM

    Even at 102*, I get little or no heat on my legs (I should also say I had shorts on yesterday). The engine temp management thingie comes on at every light, when temp above 80*, but its not like my Ultra. When the Ultra (09) came on, the bike was almost un rideable, couldn't hardly keep it running, and the heat on my legs was unbearable. With the 15 Tri, I feel almost no heat on my legs, a little from the old style air cleaner (oval), but, not bad at all, only an issue if I snug me knees against it. The only negative is just a slightly rougher idle, but not bad at all. Anyway ... I am really thrilled with my current tune.

    Just as a side note, it's the one Kevin of DK is using, I sent it to him when he had issues in New Mexico with the wind and his new slip ons (he hasn't done any auto tuning yet, waiting for his final configuration) He's getting good mpg's and his trike is running cool (he's done many mods to make it even cooler).

    I did a couple "normal" auto tuning runs, about an hour each, in town, country roads and highway.

    Then I did some additional auto tuning around town between 2k-3k in most gears for knock count.

    I also did several tune runs at 35,40,45,50,55 mph in 4th, 45,50,55,60,65 in 5th, 50,55,60,65,70,75,80,85 in 6th. The additional tuning at various speeds was done at about a mile at each speed in each gear. The additional tuning in various gears and speeds was done in response to people riding behind me complaining about "gas fumes". I don't think I was running real rich, since on a 1000 mile ride I averaged 35.6 mpg, but who knows. Since doing the addition tuning mileage has actually gone up some and riders behind me say they don't get the "fumes" anymore, so maybe I was running rich.

    Anyway, I thought about doing some additional tuning when we hit 100*, but after yesterdays ride, I think I'm good.
    So Fuzzy the tune that you and Kevin have , is it an ultimate all around tune for any conditions or is this a tune that you switch to from another stored tune in your power vision ? Ebert

  8. #7
    13000+ Posts FuzzyWuzHe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by coronetracer65 View Post
    So Fuzzy the tune that you and Kevin have , is it an ultimate all around tune for any conditions or is this a tune that you switch to from another stored tune in your power vision ? Ebert

    It's a good tune for all riding ... makes the trike a very rideable machine in all conditions I've had it in ... hasn't been all the way to sea level yet ... but real close.

  9. #8
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    It's the tune I've been riding with for the last 9000+ miles over the last 40 days...all kinds of conditions, from sea level to 8500 ft, from 35* to riding in the high desert earlier today at 106*.

    I'm very happy with it. I do have a tune that makes a bit more power, but it does not get anywhere close to as good in the MPG dept.

    Kevin
    www.DKCustom.com

    Gear Up & Ride in! DK Custom 4th Annual Open House, June 8th. 🏍️ Click HERE For The Lowdown.

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  10. #9
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    Ok.. I've never done the power tuner thing, and frankly, don't understand them, so be patient with a couple questions please.

    Right now, my '15 TG is getting a stage 1 kit along with V&H Power Duals.. does the Power Tuner replace the kit? Is one better than the other? Or can I pick up a tuner, and get the results you're getting on top of the kit/duals/etc. ?

    Thanks for any help on this! I've only got 400 miles on the TG so far, but plan on having it for many, many years and miles, so anything I can do early in it's life to make the engine better, cooler, better MPG, and more comfortable for us, I'm grabbing NOW

    edit:
    EFI Super-Tuner 32109-08C is on my invoice from HD - I'm guessing this is what they'll use to tune it once done, and then I can (if I dare!) tune afterwards?

  11. #10
    13000+ Posts FuzzyWuzHe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mixitman View Post
    Ok.. I've never done the power tuner thing, and frankly, don't understand them, so be patient with a couple questions please.
    First off .. welcome to Trike Talk and the wonderful world of trikes

    Quote Originally Posted by Mixitman View Post
    Right now, my '15 TG is getting a stage 1 kit along with V&H Power Duals.. does the Power Tuner replace the kit? Is one better than the other? Or can I pick up a tuner, and get the results you're getting on top of the kit/duals/etc. ?
    They pretty much all get you from A to B, they beauty of the power vision is that you really don't have to be a tuner to get good results. I've never done any tuning before this trike. You can do damage to your ride if you venture into the unknown. The power vision is a safe choice, IMHO, because if you just do basic auto tuning, it's fairly safe and good results can be had.

    Another advantage, is that if you mount it, it will allow you access to all sorts of info about your ride.

    A disadvantage, is that HD could void your warranty if they know your using it. This applies to almost all tuning, unless HD does it with one of their "approved" tuners.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mixitman View Post
    Thanks for any help on this! I've only got 400 miles on the TG so far, but plan on having it for many, many years and miles, so anything I can do early in it's life to make the engine better, cooler, better MPG, and more comfortable for us, I'm grabbing NOW
    Kinda my feelings when I went through this process.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mixitman View Post
    edit:

    EFI Super-Tuner 32109-08C is on my invoice from HD - I'm guessing this is what they'll use to tune it once done, and then I can (if I dare!) tune afterwards?
    That would be my guess as well.

    I don't know much about that tuner, but, I'm guessing its a create a map and flash the ecm type tuner. After it's tuned, you don't "need" it anymore unless you change something or decide to retune. I'm assuming the tune and work is being done at a dealer, so it should not void the warranty, but, that is up for debate. Technically, the V&H's will void the warranty, but most dealers will "turn a blind eye" to slippons, not sure how dealers look at the power duals. If it is a dealer, they are legally required to tune to EPA specs, as far as I've been told, So it may still run a little lean.

    Hope this helps, ride safe

  12. #11
    Bob's Curmudgeon Apprentice
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    I wish I were in your shoes. Even after adding fullsac dx pipes and the mastertune II, it's still cooking my calf and the back of my thigh even at 80 mph. Called the dealer, and they said they would wrap the pipes under the heat shields.

    Sure hope it works.

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by consitter View Post
    I wish I were in your shoes. Even after adding fullsac dx pipes and the mastertune II, it's still cooking my calf and the back of my thigh even at 80 mph. Called the dealer, and they said they would wrap the pipes under the heat shields.

    Sure hope it works.

    I do not believe good performance, heat reduction, good MPG, come from any one thing. Lots of little things, working well together, can make a bike run well And cooler.


    Additional things I have done that contribute to cooler good performance and good MPG-

    Excessive heat is a BIG performance/MPG robber. I consider anything over 230* off the front cylinder heat sensor excessive.



    Below is a list of what I've done to reduce heat & boost performance-

    My own slip-on's (with TTI's) that I made that are ridiculously simple. Most any free flowing slip-on with a de-catted header and some TTI's will be better than stock for felt heat and increased performance


    Outlaw 587 Air Cleaner



    Tank Lift, good for about 10* temp reduction


    Removal of left side thigh shield, allows the air to circulate around the rear of the rear cylinder better.


    Ward Fans, good for anywhere between 60* (in stop-n-go on a hot day) to 10* at highway speeds in temp reduction.


    An oil cooler. The one I'm running is not that great, but good for about 20* cooler oil, which will contribute a little to a lower cylinder temp.


    A Premium Discrete External Breather system. With this, no hot, oily (carbon forming), oxygen depleted air is going into the cylinders.


    A reusable oil filter. This lubricates better, filters better, and regarding performance, it is less drag on the oil pump, meaning more power to the rear tires. It also has a very slight cooling effect due to the fins built into it.

    Your dealer wrapping the headers should reduce felt heat some, and increase performance a bit.

    Kevin
    www.DKCustom.com

    Gear Up & Ride in! DK Custom 4th Annual Open House, June 8th. 🏍️ Click HERE For The Lowdown.

    Call: 662-252-8828 Text: 662-420-4891
    Email: Support@DKCustomProducts.com


  14. #13
    Bob's Curmudgeon Apprentice
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    I bought and installed the floorboard spacers. It feels much better as far as I don't feel like I'm hugging the tank anymore. I managed to turn a simple thing into a difficult one.

    I'm not mechanically inclined, and busted a knuckle something fierce on the left footboard. For the life of me, I couldn't find the 3rd bolt holding that one on for a looonngg time. Finally did though, and got it done.

  15. #14
    13000+ Posts FuzzyWuzHe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by consitter View Post
    I bought and installed the floorboard spacers. It feels much better as far as I don't feel like I'm hugging the tank anymore. I managed to turn a simple thing into a difficult one.

    I'm not mechanically inclined, and busted a knuckle something fierce on the left footboard. For the life of me, I couldn't find the 3rd bolt holding that one on for a looonngg time. Finally did though, and got it done.

    Feel good about persevering? I know I always do.

  16. #15
    450+ Posts geezerglide11441's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by DK Custom Products View Post
    I do not believe good performance, heat reduction, good MPG, come from any one thing. Lots of little things, working well together, can make a bike run well And cooler.


    Additional things I have done that contribute to cooler good performance and good MPG-

    Excessive heat is a BIG performance/MPG robber. I consider anything over 230* off the front cylinder heat sensor excessive.



    Below is a list of what I've done to reduce heat & boost performance-

    My own slip-on's (with TTI's) that I made that are ridiculously simple. Most any free flowing slip-on with a de-catted header and some TTI's will be better than stock for felt heat and increased performance


    Outlaw 587 Air Cleaner



    Tank Lift, good for about 10* temp reduction


    Removal of left side thigh shield, allows the air to circulate around the rear of the rear cylinder better.


    Ward Fans, good for anywhere between 60* (in stop-n-go on a hot day) to 10* at highway speeds in temp reduction.


    An oil cooler. The one I'm running is not that great, but good for about 20* cooler oil, which will contribute a little to a lower cylinder temp.


    A Premium Discrete External Breather system. With this, no hot, oily (carbon forming), oxygen depleted air is going into the cylinders.


    A reusable oil filter. This lubricates better, filters better, and regarding performance, it is less drag on the oil pump, meaning more power to the rear tires. It also has a very slight cooling effect due to the fins built into it.

    Your dealer wrapping the headers should reduce felt heat some, and increase performance a bit.

    Kevin
    Kevin, this may not be worth much to you, but a good friend of mine that is also a Master Tech for Harley (lot of high performance engine building/work) has advised me that 270 degrees ET from the front cylinder sensor is operation temp and not to fret until you start exceeding that. Also, stated that 230 degrees is the benchmark oil temp to burn off the contaminates in the oil.

    Just came from a two day ride here in Oregon where temps were in the mid to high 90's and noticed as I rode all day, the ET stayed around 270 and the Oil Temp stayed around 230 degrees. I as well have done several individual improvements in the area of maintaining performance/operating temps/fuel economy and am about as happy as you can be with the Harley Twins. One of the last items I installed that seemed to help tremendously was installing the extra capacity (1 1/2 qt additional) oil pan. Seems to take quite a bit longer for the oil temp to rise.

    In any event, too each his own, what every works for you is the best approach!!

    Roger
    2013 TriGlide w/120st motor/PV w/TT Module/SE Roller Rockers/Smith Adj Push Rods/T-Man 577 cams/V&V Valve Springs/Wards Fans/SE Heavy Breather/High Capacity Oil Pan/Fuel Moto Power Duals/Kuryakn Slip-ons/2014 SE Compensator/2014 SE Clutch Assembly w/AIM VP024 Clutch Kit/Pro-Action Shocks/PS Mono-Tube fork assembly/Pntd Inner Faring/H-D Road Zeppelin Seat/Chrome Rear Bumper/Air Wing Luggage Rack/Garmin Road Tech Zumo 660/DK Customs Lift kit & Tour Pack leveling kit and Oil filter relocation kit.

  17. DKCustoms postbit
  18. #16
    4750+ Posts msocko3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by geezerglide11441 View Post
    Kevin, this may not be worth much to you, but a good friend of mine that is also a Master Tech for Harley (lot of high performance engine building/work) has advised me that 270 degrees ET from the front cylinder sensor is operation temp and not to fret until you start exceeding that. Also, stated that 230 degrees is the benchmark oil temp to burn off the contaminates in the oil.

    Just came from a two day ride here in Oregon where temps were in the mid to high 90's and noticed as I rode all day, the ET stayed around 270 and the Oil Temp stayed around 230 degrees. I as well have done several individual improvements in the area of maintaining performance/operating temps/fuel economy and am about as happy as you can be with the Harley Twins. One of the last items I installed that seemed to help tremendously was installing the extra capacity (1 1/2 qt additional) oil pan. Seems to take quite a bit longer for the oil temp to rise.

    In any event, too each his own, what every works for you is the best approach!!

    Roger
    What kind of fuel mileage are you getting with that 120?
    http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/...pswnuweejq.jpg
    Red Ultra Powered By Head-Quarters 120, Easy Clutch Pull By ClutchWIZ. 2012 GL1800 Hannigan. I've yet to ride a stock Harley which wasn't in need of a mechanical intervention.

  19. #17
    450+ Posts geezerglide11441's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by msocko3 View Post
    What kind of fuel mileage are you getting with that 120?
    Hi Mike! In the Trike I am getting 36 to 38 two up with the wife, but with the wife aboard I ride very conservative - i.e. 55 to 60 mph in cruise control where possible. Funny thing is, when I am riding solo I do not do any better!!

    When I had the 120r motor in my 2008 Ultra I was between 41 and 44 most of the time. Since my resent re-build, I dumbed down the cam and lightened up the pressure on the valve springs and that is what is in the Trike currently. Changes made the motor more street riding friendly and still has stump pulling torque.

    Take care, and ride safe!!

    Roger
    2013 TriGlide w/120st motor/PV w/TT Module/SE Roller Rockers/Smith Adj Push Rods/T-Man 577 cams/V&V Valve Springs/Wards Fans/SE Heavy Breather/High Capacity Oil Pan/Fuel Moto Power Duals/Kuryakn Slip-ons/2014 SE Compensator/2014 SE Clutch Assembly w/AIM VP024 Clutch Kit/Pro-Action Shocks/PS Mono-Tube fork assembly/Pntd Inner Faring/H-D Road Zeppelin Seat/Chrome Rear Bumper/Air Wing Luggage Rack/Garmin Road Tech Zumo 660/DK Customs Lift kit & Tour Pack leveling kit and Oil filter relocation kit.

  20. #18
    13000+ Posts FuzzyWuzHe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by geezerglide11441 View Post
    Funny thing is, when I am riding solo I do not do any better!!

    Is that not any better on mpg's or mph's ...

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