Empi 34 pct questions

[starrider1946]

I have dual Empi 34's on my stock 1600cc. Don't know anything about them as far as jetting or anything. My problem is I have a stumble just after I shift to the next gear. After it quits that it's fine. Seems like if I give it a bit of throttle it goes ahead without stumbling. I can be going down the road say 45 and give it a little bit of throttle and the stumble is there but I can really gas it and it is ok.
I have adjusted to carbs to what sounds good to me. The valves are adjusted. The timing is 32 degrees advanced. Has electronic ignition. The plug wires and everything else is ok I think. I believe it is in the carbs. I did read one thread where the guy was having the same trouble as me. He said he raised the float level 1/8 inch. Ill check on that.
I am going to buy rebuild kits for the two and clean and rebuild them. I am going to call the carstore and ask them about jetting and see what they say. Any suggestions anyone has would be appreciated. I've fought other thing now I would really like to get this thing running right. Thanks

[stinger608]

First, I'm glad that the "big" issues have been solved.

That could very well be jetting in them. I am not sure what elevation your at, however, elevation can and will have a big impact on jetting. The higher elevation your at the thinner the air is. With that in mind, if they are set for sea level then you will need to drop your jet size one or two steps if your at 2500 to 5000 feet above sea level.

Can't remember if there is a pump adjustment on that type of carb or not, but that may also help. Be careful adjusting the pump though. Count the turns on the nut and set each one the same. If it acts worse then you can take the nuts out to the original setting. Hence counting and remembering the number of turns on the nuts.

[starrider1946]

I live just about sea level here in Louisiana. I found out the the Empi 34 epc comes with:
1.75
.130 main
.55 idle
.160 air correction jet
I don't know what the difference between a 34 EPC and a 34PCT is so I don't know if they would have the same jetting from the factory.It probably could be in the jetting. I am going to call the carstore and order rebuild kits for both and and talk to them about the jetting. I would like to know that they are clean and have the right jetting in them.
I am going to put new plugs in, readjust the carbs, and check the intake manifold for leaks. I read that these things could cause a stumble on acceleration. I'll keep you posted.

First, I'm glad that the "big" issues have been solved.

That could very well be jetting in them. I am not sure what elevation your at, however, elevation can and will have a big impact on jetting. The higher elevation your at the thinner the air is. With that in mind, if they are set for sea level then you will need to drop your jet size one or two steps if your at 2500 to 5000 feet above sea level.

Can't remember if there is a pump adjustment on that type of carb or not, but that may also help. Be careful adjusting the pump though. Count the turns on the nut and set each one the same. If it acts worse then you can take the nuts out to the original setting. Hence counting and remembering the number of turns on the nuts.

[Loner]

Yours is not an uncommon problem with the aircooled VWs. The jetting for the ECPs you have is accurate (main 130-145, idle 55-60). The problem is that you likely are running an '009' distributor without a vacuum advance. The solution is to [ideally] get an SVDA (single vaccum dual advance) distributor, or [secondarily] get a stock distributor with the single vacuum advance. Either will likely cure your 'flat spot' hesitation problem, but the SVDA (an aftermarket distributor) will actually perform somewhat better than the single vacuum. Also run a vacuum tube from the vacuum ports at the bottom of each carb (they usually come with a rubber caps over those ports) and then "T" off a vacuum line to the new distributor. The vacuum tubes across the two carbs will act as a balance tube for them. Once all together, retune the carbs (mixture and idle speeds) as per standard VW tuning methods.

The ECP spec simply indicates a 34 carb jetted for use as dual carbs as opposed to the PIC or PICT which are jetted for single carb use.

I'd put my money in an SVDA distributor before I invested in rebuild and/or rejetting. You can usually get them (with best prices) through local parts shops like Advance, Autozone, Oreillys and such but will be ordered and take 3-5 days. You can also find them online with good prices if you search a bit. Expect to pay $130 to $150 for a new one at a good price.

Good luck and I hope you get your problem solved soon.

Example:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/r...034%7CL3*16062

PS - if you have any of the other duals you were talking about in previous posts that you might let go for a bargain to a fellow TOI/TrikeTalk/VW trike guy, PM me and let me know. Thanks!

[stinger608]

Good point Loner on the vacuum advance distributor.

Another problem could be the dual exhaust that your running on that engine. Them are made for single carb motors only. That is one of the issues that will occur running that type of exhaust and dual carbs.

[Rsw]

I run a single 34 pict 3 and put a new Bosch 034 SVDA in mine and made the flat spot worse. Bought a cheap 009 clone and runs great. What rpm are you setting the timing at 32 degrees at?

[starrider1946]

Let me correct myself on the carbs I have. I do have Empi 34 EPC carbs.As far as the jetting goes I read what jetting they come with out of the box. I don't know what mine have. I have carb kits coming so-maybe I can check and see what I have them. I believe my distributor is the 009. It does not have vacuum advance. I would like to have the SVDA distributor and may buy one but if I can get by with just a stock distributor with points that will be fine with me. I know it wouldn't be as up to date but as long as it would work and may take out the flat spot that would be fine. I'll go to one of the parts shops I usually buy from and see what they can get the SVDA for. Is this still a electronic distributor except it has a vacuum advance? I see from carcraftstore they have the 009 with points. Would this work?
Rsw I have the timing at 32 Degrees advanced. Thanks Loner and I'll keep you posted.

I run a single 34 pict 3 and put a new Bosch 034 SVDA in mine and made the flat spot worse. Bought a cheap 009 clone and runs great. What rpm are you setting the timing at 32 degrees at?

[starrider1946]

Just went on ebay and found a Bosch SVDA distributor. On Ebay is is part number321773278414. Can you tell me if this is what I need? If I will order it. I hate to go to any parts stores here. Thanks

Let me correct myself on the carbs I have. I do have Empi 34 EPC carbs.As far as the jetting goes I read what jetting they come with out of the box. I don't know what mine have. I have carb kits coming so-maybe I can check and see what I have them. I believe my distributor is the 009. It does not have vacuum advance. I would like to have the SVDA distributor and may buy one but if I can get by with just a stock distributor with points that will be fine with me. I know it wouldn't be as up to date but as long as it would work and may take out the flat spot that would be fine. I'll go to one of the parts shops I usually buy from and see what they can get the SVDA for. Is this still a electronic distributor except it has a vacuum advance? I see from carcraftstore they have the 009 with points. Would this work?
Rsw I have the timing at 32 Degrees advanced. Thanks Loner and I'll keep you posted.

[Loner]

That works and has a good price for an SVDA with the electronic ignition.

[starrider1946]

Ok. Thanks Loner, I may go with that.

That works and has a good price for an SVDA with the electronic ignition.

[Sidecarbill]

That distributer didn't do much for me.I have a single carb.Exhaust heat and putting all the cooling tin did more for me.but it does still hesitate slightly.

[starrider1946]

I have my new SVDA distributor and ready to install it. I discovered my coil is not a 3 ohm like they say to use so I have one coming. I'll post results.

That distributer didn't do much for me.I have a single carb.Exhaust heat and putting all the cooling tin did more for me.but it does still hesitate slightly.

[starrider1946]

Where can I find a GOOD set of instructions to rebuild my 34epc carbs. I was told there would be a set with the rebuild kits but there aren't any. I know pretty well how to install the parts but I don't know what or how to set the float level or any other special instructions. Also I would like to know to to identify what jets etc. are in the carbs. I am going to keep looking.

I have my new SVDA distributor and ready to install it. I discovered my coil is not a 3 ohm like they say to use so I have one coming. I'll post results.

[Sidecarbill]

Did you try samba.com lots of v dub stuff there.

[Loner]

http://www.vw-resource.com/carb_41.html

[starrider1946]

Getting ready to install the SVDA distributor and I see a couple of things on the instructions I have questions about. One is the anti chatter spring ( which I have never heard of). Is this something that stays in place in the motor or comes out on the distributor. I surely don't' want to drop anything in the motor. ON the instructions it says make sure the anti-chatter is in place so I am not sure about this. Also it talks about the drive pinion installed correctly and would need a special extraction tool to to reinstall it. Don't know about this either. All I know is right now the rotor points where it should at top dead center on the compression stroke. Wouldn't that mean the distributor drive pinion is right. I am going to look at my VW repair manual and see if it gives any information. I believe I understand the rest. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks

http://www.vw-resource.com/carb_41.html

[Loner]

The distributor anti-chatter spring looks like and is slightly larger than a ballpoint ink pen spring. It goes in the hole in the center of the distributor drive gear under the distributor and keeps a tension on the drivetrain. It is probably the most lost part to a VW motor and many just install the distributor without it. They are about $3 if you can find one. If you have to order one, I'd recommend going ahead and install the distributor without it and install it when it arrives. You likely will not see any noticeable firing problems as the spring generally comes into play at higher revolutions when you are on and off the throttle.

As to drive gear alignment, with the engine at TDC for #1 (fire point) the drive gear slot should be perpendicular to the crankcase seam (running parallel to the rear pulley) and slightly offset toward the rear pulley. If that's what you see, then you are good to go.

[starrider1946]

You say the most lost part. Does that mean the spring fell in the crankcase when removing the distributor. If it does fall in is it hard to get out? That is what I am afraid of. Does it usually stay in place when taking the distributor out? Are there any shims or anything I need to look out for?
As far as drive gear alignment if the rotor is pointing where is should now at top dead center wouldn't the gear alignment be right with the SVSA also? I am thinking it is right but if it isn't can I change it with out special tools.
I may be making more out of it than it is but I for sure don't want anything falling in the motor. Thanks again for the help.

The distributor anti-chatter spring looks like and is slightly larger than a ballpoint ink pen spring. It goes in the hole in the center of the distributor drive gear under the distributor and keeps a tension on the drivetrain. It is probably the most lost part to a VW motor and many just install the distributor without it. They are about $3 if you can find one. If you have to order one, I'd recommend going ahead and install the distributor without it and install it when it arrives. You likely will not see any noticeable firing problems as the spring generally comes into play at higher revolutions when you are on and off the throttle.

As to drive gear alignment, with the engine at TDC for #1 (fire point) the drive gear slot should be perpendicular to the crankcase seam (running parallel to the rear pulley) and slightly offset toward the rear pulley. If that's what you see, then you are good to go.

[Loner]

1. The anti-chatter spring cannot get into the crankcase. Everything in the distributor hole is sealed by the dist drive gear. They are lost off the work table, parts bin, etc. and springs like that have a mind of their own when dropped. And many guys don't even know there is a spring to put in when they work on the distributor. Yes, it would/should stay in place in the drive gear when the distributor is removed. But they are smart little rascals and take every opportunity to escape and hide.

2. Yes, if the motor is at true TDC and the rotor aligns with #1 plug everything is correct. Go for it.

3. Shims are installed under the drive gear before it is dropped in and will not quite fit the hole into the crankcase even with the gear removed.

[starrider1946]

That makes me feel so much better. I've done my share of dropping things where they shouldn't be lately. I am going to change it tomorrow. Thanks again Loner.

1. The anti-chatter spring cannot get into the crankcase. Everything in the distributor hole is sealed by the dist drive gear. They are lost off the work table, parts bin, etc. and springs like that have a mind of their own when dropped. And many guys don't even know there is a spring to put in when they work on the distributor. Yes, it would/should stay in place in the drive gear when the distributor is removed. But they are smart little rascals and take every opportunity to escape and hide.

2. Yes, if the motor is at true TDC and the rotor aligns with #1 plug everything is correct. Go for it.

3. Shims are installed under the drive gear before it is dropped in and will not quite fit the hole into the crankcase even with the gear removed.