Clutch drag

[Boom]

Excuse me if this has been answered before. I've got 2010 Tri-Glide, SE255 cam....compensator replaced to SE year ago, chain tensioner upgraded to Hayden a couple weeks ago, clutch disks replaced with SE pack year ago, ClutchWiz installed with clutch pack. I'm using Redline Primary oil.
I have adjusted my clutch now about "6 ways to Sunday". I've got that allen screw on clutch pack turned pretty snug. It still bangs into 1st, tight on downshifting, not easy finding neutral (all when hot). If I'm at at stop, in gear, with clutch depressed completely, the trike will slowly drift. Should I be using an ATF fluid? Maybe Hayden tensioner isn't broken in yet? (but that shouldn't cause drifting?). Thanks for the advice.

 

[RcSuD]

I've got that allen screw on clutch pack turned pretty snug.

That doesn't sound right to me. I think you still don't have it adjusted properly. Go to the clutchwiz sight and read the directions on how to set up the clutch. Worked for me.

 

[Gorilla]

I agree. The allen should not be tight. You are suppose to loosen the locking nut. Back off the adjuster that the allen goes into. Then slowly turn the adjuster in til it just bottoms out not more because it will be then pushing the pressure plate in. After it just bottoms out you turn the adjuster out 1/2 a turn and while holding it in place you tighten the lock nut.

Also have you adjusted the clutch cable slack or is your clutch hydraulic?

Like mentioned look up that adjusting proceedure. Take your time and learn the feel of the adjuster. Make sure that cable is adjusted first. You get it right and you definitely will notice the difference in shifting.

 

[RcSuD]

Proper Clutch Adjustment

With the ClutchWiz installed on a cold bike and the derby cover off...​

1. Collapse the clutch cable all the way in at the adjuster to the front of the bike.​

2. Loosen the clutch plate jam nut (11/16 nut) and allow for threaded rod movement.​

3. Pull in the clutch lever and hold it against the grip with one finger.​

3. Using an Allen wrench turn the threaded rod until you can feel the clutch lever pull slightly away from the grip. Do this several times until you know where this slight pull on the lever starts then lock it down. Do not turn the adjustment rod out 1/2 turn CCW as per HD®. ​

4. Keeping the threaded adjustment rod still, tighten the 11/16ths jam nut to lock down the threaded rod.​

5. Release the clutch lever and push it to the normal rest position away from the grip.​

6. Extend the cable adjustment out until almost all of the clutch lever end play is gone (lever slop), do not over do this part. You want just a tiny bit of end play (1/16th) that you are comfortable with. This little bit of end play will guarantee that your clutch is fully engaging.​

7. Tighten the cable adjustment shoulder nut, install the derby cover.​

 

[Boom]

Thanks, but I have followed the Clutchwiz procedure to a T, several times. Backing the allen screw out a half turn is only for stock clutch packs. I have inspected the steel plates on the pack and have noticed some scuffing. The last time the clutch worked properly was when the dealer installed/set it up. That was when I had no Hayden tensioner and primary was filled with H-D primary fluid. A dealer tech recommended Redline primary fluid this time. Maybe it's too thick and I should use ATF?

 

[Livin2Ride]

Thanks, but I have followed the Clutchwiz procedure to a T, several times. Backing the allen screw out a half turn is only for stock clutch packs. I have inspected the steel plates on the pack and have noticed some scuffing. The last time the clutch worked properly was when the dealer installed/set it up. That was when I had no Hayden tensioner and primary was filled with H-D primary fluid. A dealer tech recommended Redline primary fluid this time. Maybe it's too thick and I should use ATF?

http://www.triketalk.com/forum/threads/15329-Barnett-1-Clutch-and-Hayden-Chain-Adjuster

Go back and review this old sticky. You will see where the Wiz recommended a mix of Formula+ and Syn. Automatic Trans fluid.

I ran this setup and mixture for about 20K in my 2012 without any known ill effects.

 

[Boom]

http://www.triketalk.com/forum/threads/15329-Barnett-1-Clutch-and-Hayden-Chain-Adjuster

Go back and review this old sticky. You will see where the Wiz recommended a mix of Formula+ and Syn. Automatic Trans fluid.

I ran this setup and mixture for about 20K in my 2012 without any known ill effects.

Thanks, I will change the fluids. Looks like about 2/3 Formula+ and 1/3 Mobil1 ATF. I might add that my clutch pack is 8 steels and 9 disks. Not like the Barnett+1 in is procedure. Also I resoaked the disks in synthetic oil and didn't wipe them (duh?). Hopefully, new mixture will do some diluting of heavier oil (?).
Would like to see the Wiz chime in on this.

 

[Livin2Ride]

Thanks, I will change the fluids. Looks like about 2/3 Formula+ and 1/3 Mobil1 ATF. I might add that my clutch pack is 8 steels and 9 disks. Not like the Barnett+1 in is procedure. Also I resoaked the disks in synthetic oil and didn't wipe them (duh?). Hopefully, new mixture will do some diluting of heavier oil (?).
Would like to see the Wiz chime in on this.

Wiz is tied up with a private issue right now and isn't on the boards much so I don't know that you'll hear from him. Just trying to be helpful.

 

[Gorilla]

The items you describe as happening all indicate to me that your clutch pack is not completely dis-engaging when you pull the lever all the way in. Try the 1/4 to 1/2 turn out and see if it helps. That should allow the clutch pack to fully dis-engage. I don't think the REDLINE primary oil is causing that. The reason Wiz addes the syn ATF to the formula + is to give it just a little more body to the primary fluid.

This is just my opinion if you want to give it a shot. I have had the Clutch Wiz on my bike and it was great for me.

 

[Boom]

The items you describe as happening all indicate to me that your clutch pack is not completely dis-engaging when you pull the lever all the way in. Try the 1/4 to 1/2 turn out and see if it helps. That should allow the clutch pack to fully dis-engage. I don't think the REDLINE primary oil is causing that. The reason Wiz addes the syn ATF to the formula + is to give it just a little more body to the primary fluid.

This is just my opinion if you want to give it a shot. I have had the Clutch Wiz on my bike and it was great for me.

Good point on the backing out. I've changed fluids to Wiz' formula and seems to help. Didn't think of backing out a quarter turn to give disks a little more free space. I had the ClutchWiz on my stock clutch pack and it was great. Now this SE clutch pack is a different animal.

 

[Livin2Ride]

Hope you saw the Wiz's post on the other forum.

 

[Boom]

Hope you saw the Wiz's post on the other forum.

Yes. I'm about ready to scrap the SE clutch pack and go with the Barnett. Then go with the Wiz' procedure from scratch. This is definitely NOT a ClutchWiz problem. Will see what he has to say.

 

[Boom]

Well, finally yanked that p.o.s. SE clutch pack and installed a new Barnett+1. Don't know why I got talked in to buying that SE clutch. IMO, not meant for the TG. Never could get it adjusted correctly. Now I've got the Barnett, Hayden, ClutchWiz, and Evolution spring-----couldn't be happier!! Thankfully, I was able to find my OEM damper plate. Glad I don't throw anything away. Didn't use the OEM damper spring.
Got the fluids right, adjustments per procedure, and it goes into 1st with a click. I can find neutral with the greatest of ease. Life is good!