Steering head bearing tightening, and possible pulling my leg

[cjmitch]

I called a repair garage (independent) and told him I wanted to get my steering head bearing tightened, he told me i should replace the front wheel bearings also as a matter of course...


Is he yanking my chain

[07BlueCSC]

I called a repair garage (independent) and told him I wanted to get my steering head bearing tightened, he told me i should replace the front wheel bearings also as a matter of course...


Is he yanking my chain

If you are doing the steering head bearings, you should probably rebuild the forks. You have everything apart,
so you can two items at the same time.

[Papa Zook]

I called a repair garage (independent) and told him I wanted to get my steering head bearing tightened, he told me i should replace the front wheel bearings also as a matter of course...


Is he yanking my chain

Yes.

Torquing the steering stem involves nothing to do with rebuilding the forks or replacing the front wheel bearings. Nothing comes apart, the plastic cover is removed, the top retainer nut and star washer is removed, then the main nut is torqued, then the star washer and retainer nut is replaced. It's a fairly quick and easy job if you know what you're doing. The other stuff is purely optional, as needed job.

[Gold Rush]

I called a repair garage (independent) and told him I wanted to get my steering head bearing tightened, he told me i should replace the front wheel bearings also as a matter of course...


Is he yanking my chain

Don't know if he's yanking something or just trying to get in your pocketbook.. Either way that is not needed. My '06 had 120,000 on the front wheel bearings and were tight as a drum the last time I had the wheel off...

Do you still have the OEM bearings? I suspect you've got a rake kit installed so the OEM bearings were replaced with tapered bearings. Now would be a GREAT time to at least toss in a set of All Balls tapered bearings if you do still have the OEM bicycle style bearings.

As 07blueCSC mentioned if any fork work is indicated that would be a good time to do so. Do you still have the stock forks and are you intending to stay with them? How many miles do you have on them? I found about 25,000 miles on my '06 and the slides and glides were pretty well shot.

[cjmitch]

Do you still have the OEM bearings? I suspect you've got a rake kit installed so the OEM bearings were replaced with tapered bearings. Now would be a GREAT time to at least toss in a set of All Balls tapered bearings if you do still have the OEM bicycle style bearings.

No I do not have a rake, so I probably still have the OEM bearings.

As 07blueCSC mentioned if any fork work is indicated that would be a good time to do so. Do you still have the stock forks and are you intending to stay with them? How many miles do you have on them? I found about 25,000 miles on my '06 and the slides and glides were pretty well shot.

Stock forks, have no reason to change them
70,000 miles on Saturday

Had left fork tube replaced 1 year ago

[Papa Zook]

Don't know if he's yanking something or just trying to get in your pocketbook.. Either way that is not needed. My '06 had 120,000 on the front wheel bearings and were tight as a drum the last time I had the wheel off...

Do you still have the OEM bearings? I suspect you've got a rake kit installed so the OEM bearings were replaced with tapered bearings. Now would be a GREAT time to at least toss in a set of All Balls tapered bearings if you do still have the OEM bicycle style bearings.

As 07blueCSC mentioned if any fork work is indicated that would be a good time to do so. Do you still have the stock forks and are you intending to stay with them? How many miles do you have on them? I found about 25,000 miles on my '06 and the slides and glides were pretty well shot.

Claude is the single most vocal " You don't need a rake kit!" guy on the forum, so no he doesn't have a rake. His bike, his opinion...

If its just a stem tighten, the above process I detailed is a quick and easy fix. You are right about replacing the standard bearings with tapered bearings though Jerry...not totally necessary but sure wouldn't hurt anything, it would however require the front end come off and apart. Raked front ends do wear bushings quicker than non-raked, but non-raked front ends like his don't normally need seals and bushings until at least 50K miles, at least that is what the Honda Service manual recommends... my .02


(you beat me to it Claude)...

[Gold Rush]

Yup, Claude might be better off just tightening up the bicycle bearings this deep into the riding season then doing some winter maintenance. I had around 76,000 miles on my '06 when I converted to a trike. The forks were pretty well used up at that point. Since he has 70K on now, the winter wrenching period would be an opportune time to rebuild forks and replace steering head bearings.

Partzilla.com it about the best price I've found for OEM Honda parts. A friend of mine save quite a bit when he rebuilt his forks last winter.

[cjmitch]

replace steering head bearings.

the head bearings were replaced 5 years ago (with tapered)

Is this a good price?
All Balls Wheel Bearing Kits - BikeBandit.com

[Papa Zook]

Those are wheel bearings Claude...not tapered steering stem bearings.

[1800 06 Champion Trike]

I had a set of All Balls tapered bearings put in my Trike as soon as I bought it new in 06 Champion (per dealers advice). It also has a 4.5 factory rake kit. I had them replaced last year even though they still looked good.

[cjmitch]

Those are wheel bearings Claude...not tapered steering stem bearings.

I know.. is this a good price for the wheel bearings, as the head bearings were already replaced

[Gold Rush]

the head bearings were replaced 5 years ago (with tapered)

Is this a good price?
All Balls Wheel Bearing Kits - BikeBandit.com

Yes that is a good price. Even Partzilla gets more than that.... The obvious question is..... Are you having problem with the OEM? At 70,000 miles you should still be good unless there was premature failure.

[cjmitch]

Yes that is a good price. Even Partzilla gets more than that.... The obvious question is..... Are you having problem with the OEM? At 70,000 miles you should still be good unless there was premature failure.

No i dont think that there is a problem, I kinda fell for that repair shops gloom and doom


But the steering bearing definitely need tightening.
Is there a special tool required, and can I do this myself? (head bearings)

[pcombe]

Yes.

Torquing the steering stem involves nothing to do with rebuilding the forks or replacing the front wheel bearings. Nothing comes apart, the plastic cover is removed, the top retainer nut and star washer is removed, then the main nut is torqued, then the star washer and retainer nut is replaced. It's a fairly quick and easy job if you know what you're doing. The other stuff is purely an optional, as needed job.

That's the straight of it Zook!

Im still fighting the broad who ran into my trike insurance company and my bike is just sitting waiting for a damn adjuster!

I want (someone's) balls or something in my vice.
This looks like a damn long process and the worst of it is that I could asses and repair it myself.
Come to think of it I would flo's tit in ringer!

[Gold Rush]

No i dont think that there is a problem, I kinda fell for that repair shops gloom and doom


But the steering bearing definitely need tightening.
Is there a special tool required, and can I do this myself? (head bearings)

The nut you need to torque has four notches cut at 90 degree angles from each other. There is a special socket normally used but I've heard of guys that made a tool they used instead. You'd also need the large metric socket used to secure the upper triple tree to the steering stem.

None of the job I'd difficult. Just takes time and a little patience. Having the shop manual is a real plus... The metric socket is easy to find. If you would like to own one of the special sockets I think I have a source that sells them MUCH cheaper then Honda...

[cjmitch]

The nut you need to torque has four notches cut at 90 degree angles from each other. There is a special socket normally used but I've heard of guys that made a tool they used instead. You'd also need the large metric socket used to secure the upper triple tree to the steering stem.

None of the job I'd difficult. Just takes time and a little patience. Having the shop manual is a real plus... The metric socket is easy to find. If you would like to own one of the special sockets I think I have a source that sells them MUCH cheaper then Honda...

Please let me have that information.
Also is there a video out there somewhere on how to do this?

[Gold Rush]

Please let me have that information.
Also is there a video out there somewhere on how to do this?

The fellow I got mine from can be contacted here: ehcycledude@yahoo.com . Zook told me of another place that is actually less expensive: http://www.dhsracing.com/GL1800tools.htm ($30 version).

I don't know of any videos but here is a link to Fred Harmon's site explanation and photos for bearing service. http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/stembearings . This will give you the general idea how to tighten the bearings. Since you are not raked I'd think 28 to 32 ft. lbs. of torque should be plenty. Tapered bearings are usually set a bit tighter then bicycle style bearings and I seem to recall Honda says mid 20s....

[cjmitch]

The fellow I got mine from can be contacted here: ehcycledude@yahoo.com . Zook told me of another place that is actually less expensive: http://www.dhsracing.com/GL1800tools.htm ($30 version).

I don't know of any videos but here is a link to Fred Harmon's site explanation and photos for bearing service. http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/stembearings . This will give you the general idea how to tighten the bearings. Since you are not raked I'd think 28 to 32 ft. lbs. of torque should be plenty. Tapered bearings are usually set a bit tighter then bicycle style bearings and I seem to recall Honda says mid 20s....

Stem tool on order...

Questions..
1) to you over torque to seat the bearings, the back it off and torque to spec?
Or just tighten it down and be done with it?

2) What is the torque for the top locknut?
is it just good "n" tight, or tight enough to line up one set of the tangs on the lockwasher.

[Gold Rush]

Stem tool on order...

Questions..
1) to you over torque to seat the bearings, the back it off and torque to spec?
Or just tighten it down and be done with it?

2) What is the torque for the top locknut?
is it just good "n" tight, or tight enough to line up one set of the tangs on the lock washer.

Torque a few pounds tight then run the steering full lock to lock five or six times. Loosen nut then torque again to desired level. I go through the lock to lock again and recheck the torque but I'm anal that way.... Put the lock ring in place and tighten the top nut just enough to align the tabs. If it doesn't line up easily take the nut off and flip it over then tighten.....

Torque setting on the cap nut is 76 ft lbs.

Have Fun.. Really, it's not a tough job and you'll get the satisfaction of doing it yourself.

[irmagoo]

gota love this forum everyone is willing to share their knowledge!!!
- makes working on your stuff a lot easier for sure!!!!
magoo