Ever since I triked my old Harley I have trouble keeping the upper engine mounting bolts tight, I've used lock washers, red,blue thread lock etc.
Anybody else have this problem and what is the solution?:Shrug:
Switch to fine thread fastener(s) with nyloc locknut(s) maybe?
Are the rubber isolators in the lower mounts still pliable?
I've seen them harden with heat & cool cycles & age & that could cause excess vibes.
Has to be something simple though...
Good luck in tracing it down.
What I did was safety wire the two bolts together, so far I haven't had any problems since 2013 when those bolts came lose. I drilled a 1/16th inch hole through both bolt heads and used 1/16th inch stainless wire and tied the two bolts to each other, it's not pretty but it's been working so far.
Butch
I can't tell you how many times mine loosens up, Just recently they loosen again and one bolt sheared off.. Lucky the spacer stayed on.. So i got two new bolts from my local hardware store [#8 - 9/16 non Harley] And used Permatex thread locker RED High Strength on them.. And tighten them down hard with a socket wrench.. So far they are still tight for the last thousand miles...
I do carry a 9/16 box wrench and i checked them again today after a 2 hundred mile ride..
While the engine was still hot..
So far so good..
Switch to fine thread fastener(s) with nyloc locknut(s) maybe?
Are the rubber isolators in the lower mounts still pliable?
I've seen them harden with heat & cool cycles & age & that could cause excess vibes.
Has to be something simple though...
Good luck in tracing it down.
All I can say is, if your having bolts that back out with red locktite on them. There is another issue within the mounts of your engine and transmission you should be looking for. A clean thread on the bolt and a clean threaded pocket it screws into, that bolt should not be backing out.
All I can say is, if your having bolts that back out with red locktite on them. There is another issue within the mounts of your engine and transmission you should be looking for. A clean thread on the bolt and a clean threaded pocket it screws into, that bolt should not be backing out.
This really isn't all that uncommon the bike has a tendency to try and twist the engine in the frame and a trike just places more of the effect on the mounts.
If you ever hear someone complain their horn honks when they turn of take off the upper engine mount is to blame.
I just had a message from one of our members suggesting to replace the bolts with studs and nuts. perhaps that would make a difference, I don't know? The forces are still at work has any body done this?
I like the wire tie idea, simple and I know it will work.
I used to build mining shovels, draglines and blast hole drills and never seen it fail, Imagine the forces at work on these mega machines.
He also recommended a stiffer link, On a bike as old as mine Champion included this and brackets to beef up my upper mounts. Im told newer machines already have them.
View attachment 30430
http://www.vtwinmfg.com/webapp/wcs/s..._141420_141424
These swing arm bushings will help eliminate some of the twisting forces.
I bought them when I triked mine so I could start with all new parts.
"pcombe" I tie-wired the bolts in a S pattern also loctite them, and "FLTR2008TRIKE" is probably right, but, I'm not taking any more chances.
I lost those bolts on my 103 twice (after service work), then when our local H-D mech's installed the 120R in my trike, the first day on the road with new engine I lost those bolts and had to order the spacers, that's when I decided to do the safety wire thing. We no longer have a H-D dealer here, parts are a phone call away or by internet, but, it takes about 4 days minimum to deliver parts if I'm lucky. The nearest parts department is about a thousand miles away.
Butch
What kind of front engine isolator are you using? Stock or Polyurethane? I agree 100% with a trike the forces working the isolator mounts is greater than on a 2 wheel M/C you may need to see if you can fabricate to install a rear link setup on your frame. Progressive Suspension is what I am using >> http://www.progressivesuspension.com...4/touring-link
As far as newer Triglides go, if your trike has experienced front engine bolts backing out of the heads. You may need to consider installing a rear link setup as well to minimize rear end movement on the front engine and transmission isolators.
On my rounds of a few dealers, And asking the service guys about the bolts.. The first reply is never heard about them.... Then after saying are you kidding i know of quite a few... There tone changes to' Yea we did have some loosen... Being it in and we'll look at it , Which i won't..
This really isn't all that uncommon the bike has a tendency to try and twist the engine in the frame and a trike just places more of the effect on the mounts.
If you ever hear someone complain their horn honks when they turn of take off the upper engine mount is to blame.
I just had a message from one of our members suggesting to replace the bolts with studs and nuts. perhaps that would make a difference, I don't know? The forces are still at work has any body done this?
I like the wire tie idea, simple and I know it will work.
I used to build mining shovels, draglines and blast hole drills and never seen it fail, Imagine the forces at work on these mega machines.
He also recommended a stiffer link, On a bike as old as mine Champion included this and brackets to beef up my upper mounts. Im told newer machines already have them.
View attachment 30430
http://www.vtwinmfg.com/webapp/wcs/s..._141420_141424
These swing arm bushings will help eliminate some of the twisting forces.
I bought them when I triked mine so I could start with all new parts.
That upper stabilizer link is a Comp Cam part # 9600-1 Works like a shock for the top end. Works great !
Well im at a point where I keep having to wait for the damn painter so I guess im going to wire tie mine tomorrow.
Too many years have gone by!:Shrug: