upper engine mounting bolts keep loosing up

[pcombe]

Ever since I triked my old Harley I have trouble keeping the upper engine mounting bolts tight, I've used lock washers, red,blue thread lock etc.

Anybody else have this problem and what is the solution?

[peteg59]

Ever since I triked my old Harley I have trouble keeping the upper engine mounting bolts tight, I've used lock washers, red,blue thread lock etc.

Anybody else have this problem and what is the solution?

Switch to fine thread fastener(s) with nyloc locknut(s) maybe?
Are the rubber isolators in the lower mounts still pliable?
I've seen them harden with heat & cool cycles & age & that could cause excess vibes.
Has to be something simple though...
Good luck in tracing it down.

[Gorilla]

Switch to fine thread fastener(s) with nyloc locknut(s) maybe?
Are the rubber isolators in the lower mounts still pliable?
I've seen them harden with heat & cool cycles & age & that could cause excess vibes.
Has to be something simple though...
Good luck in tracing it down.

he is talking about the bolts that hold the front top mount bracket. They bolt into the front cylinder head. I have lost 2 of them myself. I have had the dealer replace them under warrantee because they have to supply that spacer also. I also would be interested if anyone has found an answer. You certainly do not want to use green loc tite.

[SEAlaskan]

What I did was safety wire the two bolts together, so far I haven't had any problems since 2013 when those bolts came lose. I drilled a 1/16th inch hole through both bolt heads and used 1/16th inch stainless wire and tied the two bolts to each other, it's not pretty but it's been working so far.
Butch

[rhino 2]

I can't tell you how many times mine loosens up, Just recently they loosen again and one bolt sheared off.. Lucky the spacer stayed on.. So i got two new bolts from my local hardware store [#8 - 9/16 non Harley] And used Permatex thread locker RED High Strength on them.. And tighten them down hard with a socket wrench.. So far they are still tight for the last thousand miles... I do carry a 9/16 box wrench and i checked them again today after a 2 hundred mile ride.. While the engine was still hot..
So far so good..

[pcombe]

What I did was safety wire the two bolts together, so far I haven't had any problems since 2013 when those bolts came lose. I drilled a 1/16th inch hole through both bolt heads and used 1/16th inch stainless wire and tied the two bolts to each other, it's not pretty but it's been working so far.
Butch

Bingo! That's the answer Amigo, I don't know why I didn't think of it?
I used to wire tie bolts in gears.


some do it with wire in a figure 8 with the wire going through the bolt heads.

I usually drill the holes put one end through the bolt head (so im working with two wires) and (twist) the wire tightly . I form it into a figure S and wrapping half way around the bolt put one through the bolt head and twist the two ends together and fold the tail against the bolt head. It makes for a much cleaner look.


The idea is if one starts to loosen it pulls the other tight and vise versa

I drew and scanned a picture but don't know how to convert it to jpg format. just draw a bolt head inside each end of the S and you will get the idea.

- - - Updated - - -

I can't tell you how many times mine loosens up, Just recently they loosen again and one bolt sheared off.. Lucky the spacer stayed on.. So i got two new bolts from my local hardware store [#8 - 9/16 non Harley] And used Permatex thread locker RED High Strength on them.. And tighten them down hard with a socket wrench.. So far they are still tight for the last thousand miles...

I do carry a 9/16 box wrench and i checked them again today after a 2 hundred mile ride..

While the engine was still hot..
So far so good..

Sea Alaska's got the cure my friend.

- - - Updated - - -

Switch to fine thread fastener(s) with nyloc locknut(s) maybe?
Are the rubber isolators in the lower mounts still pliable?
I've seen them harden with heat & cool cycles & age & that could cause excess vibes.
Has to be something simple though...
Good luck in tracing it down.

Good plan, wrong motor mount!

[Sloufoot]

If you decide to use green loctite all you need to do to remove them later is take a propane torch & heat the bolt head until real hot. It will turn loose.

[FLTR2008TRIKE]

All I can say is, if your having bolts that back out with red locktite on them. There is another issue within the mounts of your engine and transmission you should be looking for. A clean thread on the bolt and a clean threaded pocket it screws into, that bolt should not be backing out.

[rhino 2]

All I can say is, if your having bolts that back out with red locktite on them. There is another issue within the mounts of your engine and transmission you should be looking for. A clean thread on the bolt and a clean threaded pocket it screws into, that bolt should not be backing out.

On my rounds of a few dealers, And asking the service guys about the bolts.. The first reply is never heard about them.... Then after saying are you kidding i know of quite a few... There tone changes to' Yea we did have some loosen... Being it in and we'll look at it , Which i won't..

[pcombe]

All I can say is, if your having bolts that back out with red locktite on them. There is another issue within the mounts of your engine and transmission you should be looking for. A clean thread on the bolt and a clean threaded pocket it screws into, that bolt should not be backing out.

This really isn't all that uncommon the bike has a tendency to try and twist the engine in the frame and a trike just places more of the effect on the mounts.
If you ever hear someone complain their horn honks when they turn of take off the upper engine mount is to blame.

I just had a message from one of our members suggesting to replace the bolts with studs and nuts. perhaps that would make a difference, I don't know? The forces are still at work has any body done this?

I like the wire tie idea, simple and I know it will work.

I used to build mining shovels, draglines and blast hole drills and never seen it fail, Imagine the forces at work on these mega machines.

He also recommended a stiffer link, On a bike as old as mine Champion included this and brackets to beef up my upper mounts. Im told newer machines already have them.




http://www.vtwinmfg.com/webapp/wcs/s..._141420_141424

These swing arm bushings will help eliminate some of the twisting forces.

I bought them when I triked mine so I could start with all new parts.

[FLTR2008TRIKE]

This really isn't all that uncommon the bike has a tendency to try and twist the engine in the frame and a trike just places more of the effect on the mounts.
If you ever hear someone complain their horn honks when they turn of take off the upper engine mount is to blame.

I just had a message from one of our members suggesting to replace the bolts with studs and nuts. perhaps that would make a difference, I don't know? The forces are still at work has any body done this?

I like the wire tie idea, simple and I know it will work.

I used to build mining shovels, draglines and blast hole drills and never seen it fail, Imagine the forces at work on these mega machines.

He also recommended a stiffer link, On a bike as old as mine Champion included this and brackets to beef up my upper mounts. Im told newer machines already have them.



http://www.vtwinmfg.com/webapp/wcs/s..._141420_141424

These swing arm bushings will help eliminate some of the twisting forces.

I bought them when I triked mine so I could start with all new parts.

What kind of front engine isolator are you using? Stock or Polyurethane? I agree 100% with a trike the forces working the isolator mounts is greater than on a 2 wheel M/C you may need to see if you can fabricate to install a rear link setup on your frame. Progressive Suspension is what I am using >> http://www.progressivesuspension.com...4/touring-link

As far as newer Triglides go, if your trike has experienced front engine bolts backing out of the heads. You may need to consider installing a rear link setup as well to minimize rear end movement on the front engine and transmission isolators.

[SEAlaskan]

"pcombe" I tie-wired the bolts in a S pattern also loctite them, and "FLTR2008TRIKE" is probably right, but, I'm not taking any more chances.
I lost those bolts on my 103 twice (after service work), then when our local H-D mech's installed the 120R in my trike, the first day on the road with new engine I lost those bolts and had to order the spacers, that's when I decided to do the safety wire thing. We no longer have a H-D dealer here, parts are a phone call away or by internet, but, it takes about 4 days minimum to deliver parts if I'm lucky. The nearest parts department is about a thousand miles away.
Butch

[pcombe]

"pcombe" I tie-wired the bolts in a S pattern also loctite them, and "FLTR2008TRIKE" is probably right, but, I'm not taking any more chances.
I lost those bolts on my 103 twice (after service work), then when our local H-D mech's installed the 120R in my trike, the first day on the road with new engine I lost those bolts and had to order the spacers, that's when I decided to do the safety wire thing. We no longer have a H-D dealer here, parts are a phone call away or by internet, but, it takes about 4 days minimum to deliver parts if I'm lucky. The nearest parts department is about a thousand miles away.
Butch

I can sympathize, It's hard to walk in and get parts for mine in our local dealership. Too many years have gone by and I have to have a dealer order from V-Twin if I cant find it on the internet.

- - - Updated - - -

What kind of front engine isolator are you using? Stock or Polyurethane? I agree 100% with a trike the forces working the isolator mounts is greater than on a 2 wheel M/C you may need to see if you can fabricate to install a rear link setup on your frame. Progressive Suspension is what I am using >> http://www.progressivesuspension.com...4/touring-link

As far as newer Triglides go, if your trike has experienced front engine bolts backing out of the heads. You may need to consider installing a rear link setup as well to minimize rear end movement on the front engine and transmission isolators.

I've never seen these before, To bad they fit from 1993 and up Harleys and don't go back far enough for mine? Oh Well!

[rhino 2]

On my rounds of a few dealers, And asking the service guys about the bolts.. The first reply is never heard about them.... Then after saying are you kidding i know of quite a few... There tone changes to' Yea we did have some loosen... Being it in and we'll look at it , Which i won't..

And i might also add, That When ever a service guy tells me that they never seen that before [And i know he's playing dumb] I tell him write it down, So the next time a bike comes in with the same problem you can say. ''Yes iv'e seen this before...
And how i know he's playing dumb... His lips are moving fast..

[Sloufoot]

This really isn't all that uncommon the bike has a tendency to try and twist the engine in the frame and a trike just places more of the effect on the mounts.
If you ever hear someone complain their horn honks when they turn of take off the upper engine mount is to blame.

I just had a message from one of our members suggesting to replace the bolts with studs and nuts. perhaps that would make a difference, I don't know? The forces are still at work has any body done this?

I like the wire tie idea, simple and I know it will work.

I used to build mining shovels, draglines and blast hole drills and never seen it fail, Imagine the forces at work on these mega machines.

He also recommended a stiffer link, On a bike as old as mine Champion included this and brackets to beef up my upper mounts. Im told newer machines already have them.



http://www.vtwinmfg.com/webapp/wcs/s..._141420_141424

These swing arm bushings will help eliminate some of the twisting forces.

I bought them when I triked mine so I could start with all new parts.

That upper stabilizer link is a Comp Cam part # 9600-1 Works like a shock for the top end. Works great !

[Gorilla]

That upper stabilizer link is a Comp Cam part # 9600-1 Works like a shock for the top end. Works great !

i installed the upper link and still lost a bolt. But it does a great job with vibration

[pcombe]

Well im at a point where I keep having to wait for the damn painter so I guess im going to wire tie mine tomorrow.

[SEAlaskan]

Well im at a point where I keep having to wait for the damn painter so I guess im going to wire tie mine tomorrow.

, Drill bolts, loctite bolts, Torque bolts, safety wire bolts, then.
Butch

[FuzzyWuzHe]

Too many years have gone by!

I have the same problem ...

[pcombe]

I marked the tightened bolt heads for front and rear cylinder, put a dot on the face I wanted to drill with a sharpie. It was important to make the wire wrap partially around the bolt head on each bolt to create a loosing/tightening effect.

I Drilled the bolt heads and reinstalled them, Then used (stainless steel) wire to make the tie.

run one end of the wire through the bolt hole so you are working with two wires.

Twist your two wires very tight with pliers as you go and keep the twist going right up to the other bolt hole where you run one end through that bolts hole.

I went behind the center stabilizer bolt.

This outta do it!

If one begins to loosen it will pull the other tighter and vise versa.





Note: how the wire wraps around the front face of the bolt in the rear cylinder and around the back of the bolt face on the front cylinder? that would be correct.