1989 GL1500 Alternator

[chris vickers]

Mine went out today at 75,000 miles. Is that something a local Alternator and Starter place can rebuild or do I have to buy one from a Honda place. I am not sure what amp came on them but I also see some 32,50, 90 amp options on the net. Can I put a 90 amp on there to work better with the HIDs, GPS, Phones etc that weren't on the bikes in 1989.

Can someone post some options and even better links to ones they have replaced them with. I have a friend who rebuilds starters and alternators all day long and I will call him in the morning but thought I would ask around here

 

[keepinon]

Had a friend, earlier in the summer had to replace his alternator on a GL1500. He ordered one from this ebay merchant:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Alterna...-90-/261585505549?hash=item3ce7b60d0d&vxp=mtr

The year model shown doesn't match, but the part numbers do. Friend had no problems. He had considered a rebuilt hi-amp from another ebay-er, but elected to go new. His bike has a lot of lights (many LED) running lights, but no HID. He's never had a too low amp problem, so this 40 amp does well. You can google Compu-fire for hi-amp new models, but they are expensive.

I'll include the ebay hi-amp rebuilt model he was considering:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/90-2000-HON...485-/331670234659?hash=item4d39162623&vxp=mtr

Rebuilds are only as good as the builder, so I've only used rebuilt items from local shops, in case of a problem.

Good luck on the fix!

 

[wiredgeorge]

I may be mistaken but I think the regulator/rectifier is integrated into the alternator. If that part is bad, rebuilding the alternator part doesn't make sense. I replaced mine when I first got my trike and it is fairly simple chore on the 1500... I bought a used one that came from a running 1500 that was parted out and it worked fine for a number of years. You might want to check at goldwingdocs.com as they have a lot of older wings parting out.

 

[Haste Maker]

The alternator on most all GL1500 were junk from the factory, mine went out 2 times within 51,000 miles & I wasn't running any extra lights. A lot of my friends replaced the stock alternator with the com u fire brand & I never heard of any of them having another alternator problem.

http://compufire.com/honda.html?SID=28sqonfll0ec08pqc44svsep62

 

[1800 06 Champion Trike]

My last 1500, the alternator lasted almost 50,000 miles.
I then had a new one installed and that lasted until I traded my 1500 in with 92,000 miles on the Wing.

 

[retdpd]

Mine went out about 75,000. I replaced with a comp u fire with no regrets. I have plenty of current to spare wife can use her heated clothing etc..

 

[chris vickers]

Took it a buddy who does some Cycle repair, yep, alternator is gone so he will have me a new one on by Friday and we can go again

 

[Ozarkryder]

It is worth it to replace the stock alternator with an upgrade like the Compu-fire. When we had the 1500 the alternator went out about 50,000 miles. Replaced it with the Compu-fire, and with a peak output at 90 amps it not only kept up with the extra electrical I added, it actually charged at idle. It needs the upgraded battery to go with it - at 60 amps at idle the Compu-fire will boil a standard wet cell battery.

 

[wiredgeorge]

Kuryakn makes a nifty little voltage gauge that installs easily on a 1500. I had one on mine. It shows charging condition using LEDs. When you are going at over 3500 rpm, you see green; either one two LEDs which is where charging should be at while on the highway. If you are only getting 12 or 13 VDC at highway speeds, the battery will soon discharge and your ride will be over. If you are getting much more than 14VDC... say 15VDC or higher, your battery is cooking and your ride will soon be over. Both too high and too low a voltage indicates the alternator or regulator/rectifier are dead or dying.

Buy a half decent voltage monitoring device. I put a Chinese made round gauge on my Can-Am spyder; had LEDS and looked spiffy but was very inaccurate. Would read 13.8VDC when the bike was really chugging out 14.2VDC and never read any higher than 13.8VDC. Sort of just went between 12.4VDC at start up idle to 13.8VDC. It was cheaper.

 

[chris vickers]

Already have a Volt Gauge on the bike, its not led but i dont so much trust led type gauge anyway

Kuryakn makes a nifty little voltage gauge that installs easily on a 1500. I had one on mine. It shows charging condition using LEDs. When you are going at over 3500 rpm, you see green; either one two LEDs which is where charging should be at while on the highway. If you are only getting 12 or 13 VDC at highway speeds, the battery will soon discharge and your ride will be over. If you are getting much more than 14VDC... say 15VDC or higher, your battery is cooking and your ride will soon be over. Both too high and too low a voltage indicates the alternator or regulator/rectifier are dead or dying.

Buy a half decent voltage monitoring device. I put a Chinese made round gauge on my Can-Am spyder; had LEDS and looked spiffy but was very inaccurate. Would read 13.8VDC when the bike was really chugging out 14.2VDC and never read any higher than 13.8VDC. Sort of just went between 12.4VDC at start up idle to 13.8VDC. It was cheaper.

 

[chris vickers]

When I go to order a Alternator it also says I need a upgraded battery which is cool, my question is it says there is a "Tach Adapter" that says it restores the Tach to correct, Is this a needed item?