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Downtube bearing
Can anyone tell me what the part number is for the bearing on the bottom of the downtube? I'm thinking I've seen this before but I can't find it anywhere. I was out for a ride last week and started to notice when breaking the trike pulled to the left. When I got it back to the shop I found the bearing on the downtube was completely worn out. I'm trying to get the old race out but it is going to need to be cut out. Yes I will replace both when I get a good part number.
Thanks for any help.
Ed
Arch welder or wire welder you weld around the race it expands and falls off for the most part, screw that cutting it off stuff. The race is hard as a gold diggers heart, if ya gotta cut it use a die grinder, My opinion my Experience.Originally Posted by Ed Hobgood
Can anyone tell me what the part number is for the bearing on the bottom of the downtube? I'm thinking I've seen this before but I can't find it anywhere. I was out for a ride last week and started to notice when breaking the trike pulled to the left. When I got it back to the shop I found the bearing on the downtube was completely worn out. I'm trying to get the old race out but it is going to need to be cut out
Thanks for any help.
Ed
Been there done that!! I had one go out at around 25K on the left side. Now, this is the swing arm bearing on the fork. This is the part number that was enclosed on the invoice. 5201-2RS This is a Japanese bearing, two of them were $52.20 + shipping. I ordered them from www.motionindustries.com. Yeah, the old race is difficult to remove. I used a diamond coated burr on a die grinder. Ground one side thin and was able to get a punch under it and punch it out. I might try to do the weld trick if I had it to do over.
Ed,
http://www.triketalk.com/forum/threa...-Head-Bearings
I did that repair back a year ago. I did not write down the part number but all I did was take the old bearing in to NAPA and they read the number off of it and older another bearing. The number is on the heavy medal part and was easy to read.
Not a hard repair just make sure to fill the tube with gease and you will not have the problem again. It takes alot but it is worth it.
Stallion #406 // 2013 Tri-Glide
Gorillo, I don't think he is talking about the head bearing. I think he is referring to the smaller bearing on the fork swing arm.
Thanks, Yes the bearing is the one that the swing arm attaches to at the bottom of the downtube.
The only number I have found is on the black metal ring and it is 5201RS.
My Stallion is an 08 do you know if they changed anything on later models?
No, I do not know if they changed anything on later models. Once Kevin, (known as Stallion Tech) told me that they machined the hole for that bearing too small and the bearing was crushed. I had mine back to the factory 2 years ago and they changed out the tubes as well as new hubs, n/c. I haven't seen a lot of problems with these bearings on this forum, so I hope mine holds up for the duration.
One thing I didn't realize was the bearing had to be remover from the outside (front) as you are looking at it. I was using a die grinder and once I got the bearing to move I noticed there was part of the area that did not move. I got a mirror behind the arm and it was machined like that. I have a call into TMS and waiting for a call back to see if they have the bearing in stock or if they will give me another number for a bearing. Trikervet, thanks for your help.
I did get to talk to Richard and the bearing number is 5201-2RS. TMS uses NSK bearings and I ordered two from globalindustrial.com the part number is C5EB1876298 and the cost for two bearing with shipping is $54.06.
Bearings
I watched a tech from NC knock mine out with a nut socket....he said that was his specialty tool....then laughed....hell I coulda done that, and I will next time...
Oddoman
# 667
South Carolina.
It appears that a couple of us are now experiencing the worn bearing issue at the end of the fork/swing arms. If anyone has any updated information on the R/R of these bearings please speak up. It would be nice if the old bearing could be pushed out from the backside to prevent having to remove the fork tubs.
Tomg
Tom I did not take mine apart but I looked it over real close. It appears to me that bearing is going to be pressed in. If that is correct a jig would have to be made or remove the down tube.
Stallion #406 // 2013 Tri-Glide
Good Evening,
I have replaced mine twice. You don't have to take the down tubes out. Let the swing arm loose and hang down. Take a brass punch and knock the bearing out from the outside inward and then clean up the bearing surface inside the tube and then put some anti seize in down tube and install bearing. The bearing will actually go right in. Gave a couple hits with hammer and brass punch to make sure it is seated right. Put back together. Do a nut and bolt job on all nuts and bolts, tighten and check I mean. have a couple beers for a job well done. I don't think I paid 50 dollars for the bearing though, I don't remember what the price was on the bearings for sure.
Dragon
Dragon thanks for the info. If you ever run across the bearing part number and can post it for us that would be great.
Stallion #406 // 2013 Tri-Glide
The part number 5201RS on mine is the same as mentioned earlier. What I don't seem to understand is one person says to knock the old bear thru from the outside and another says to knock it out from the backside. If you install the new bearing from the outside until it seats, how are you going to knock out the old one from the outside? I was only able to knock out the center race so far which allowed what was left of the bearings to come out. Some of the bearings were broken in half and are "hollow " bearings. Must have been low bid !
I'm now going to try heat and candle wax to get the outer race out. Wish me luck !
Tomg
When the fork tubes were made the early version did not have groves machined
where the bearing goes and you could not get the bearing out on the outer edge.
with the new tubes they had machined the groves in and you can get a punch
and knock out the outer part of the bearing without destroying everything. I found
in my bearing search that they make a cheaper bearing that only has one row of bearings and a more expensive model that has two rows of bearings heavy duty version
good luck
Dragon
I had one of these bearings disintegrate when I had about 25K on the bike. When it came apart, only the outer race was left in the fork. This allowed the axle
to swing sharply to the left when the brakes were applied, accompanied by a loud "clunk". It made for a real hairy stop. On my fork, the outer race could not be knocked out from the back as the bearing bottomed out on a machined surface and it certainly couldn't be knocked out from the front as it was already bottomed out. I used a dremel tool with a diamond coated burr to grind the race down paper thin, then I was able to pry it out easily.
Fast forward a couple of years and my front tire was wearing on the right. Adjusting the fork tube up/down didn't seem to help. I made an appointment with the factory and I rode it out there. They replaced both fork tubes and both hubs and that seems to have corrected the problem. Replaced the tire about 8K back and doesn't seem to show any wear. I have not looked at the back side of the new bearing since it was replaced, but if they have made it so that the bearing can be knocked out from the front, it would be a lot easier.
Some time back, Kevin, who calls himself "Stallion Tech" stated that the early forks bearing surfaces were machined too tight and crunched the bearings. Maybe so. That's my experience with that bearing. Hope this helps.
this is starting to be a good thread. think about where this bearing is located
right at most pressure point of the suspension, a lot of pressure is being pushed
down ward on this bearing and seeing how it does not rotate the pressure is
being put in the same spot all the time. the bearing oblongs, makes it hard to
get out. another point to look at are the bolts that hold everything together,
they also become dented, they might not look like it but when you mic them
they show changes. I also replaced my bolts when I did my bearings. like what
was said above small changes in geometry make big changes in steering
Dragon
Well I managed to get the center race out of one side which allowed everything but the outer race to come out. I then heated the inside of the race, ran a candle around it and knocked it out with a punch. On my 09 there are 2 notches on the inside of of the tubes that I used the punch. My bearings cannot be pushed thru from the outside, they have to come out the front side. There is a ridge that is where the bearing seats.
Tomg
definitely a learning experience.
Stallion #406 // 2013 Tri-Glide
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