Changing fluids

[uppercaseJC]

I own a 2015 Tri Glide. Some time ago a forum member went to the effort of telling us the correct amount of fluid for each hole along with the proper torque to tighten the drain plugs when finished. I have tried the search feature but can't find it. Can someone help me out? Thanks

[HDB0B]

Motor with filter change - 3.3 to 3.5 quarts, Tranny 28 ounces, Primary 32 ounces (skinny) or 38 ounces. All 2016 touring bikes now have the skinny primary. Your 2015 "may" also have the skinny primary .... you need to look closely.
Torque 14-21 ft lbs.

[Lizard]

Motor with filter change - 3.3 to 3.5 quarts, Tranny 28 ounces, Primary 32 ounces (skinny) or 38 ounces. All 2016 touring bikes now have the skinny primary. Your 2015 "may" also have the skinny primary .... you need to look closely.
Torque 14-21 ft lbs.

I am not seeing the difference in the 2?

[uppercaseJC]

Motor with filter change - 3.3 to 3.5 quarts, Tranny 28 ounces, Primary 32 ounces (skinny) or 38 ounces. All 2016 touring bikes now have the skinny primary. Your 2015 "may" also have the skinny primary .... you need to look closely.
Torque 14-21 ft lbs.

Thanks very much for the assistance.

[DK Custom Products]

Couple of comments on the fill amounts.

Make sure you have the fluids hot before draining, that way you will get more of the old out.

The transmission has a dipstick, I suggest you use it, rather than blindly putting a pre-determined amount in.

Same with the engine. Use the dipstick and follow the instructions in the manual. It is not unusual at all, for it to be at the proper fill level (which according to the manual is Halfway between the top & bottom marks on the dipstick) with LESS than 3 quarts, even if drained hot.

Kevin

[KJB]

This may be what you are referring to. I saved it when I read it.

[uppercaseJC]

This may be what you are referring to. I saved it when I read it.

That was what I was looking for. Thanks all for the help.

[HDB0B]

I am not seeing the difference in the 2?

Which is exactly why you have to look closely and make sure.

[RedOregon]

This may be what you are referring to. I saved it when I read it.

Long story, but I keep having a nagging feeling that I'm short on primary fluid. I just read through about 30 threads discussing *what* to use in the primary (seems RedLine shockproof is the way to go) and *how much* (38 to 40oz, less for the "skinny" primary cover but mine's a 2015), and some other chitchat, but my concern wasn't really addressed that I can find.

How can you check the level *on a primary that's already been filled* without draining and refilling? Back in the day, on my two-wheelers, the standard was to pop the derby and the level should just barely touch/cover the bottom edge of the clutch basket, but I seem to remember that's it's not the same on a Freewheeler?

Anyone give me a solid answer (or did you happen to look inside the last time you did a change to see where the level reached)? The quote above refers to the post that said, "38 ounces then check", but how do you check?

[HDB0B]

I now use an extra 2 ounces (40 ounces on my 2014). It is in-between the factory and "mine" setting shown.
This is a cycle sitting level check. I use H-D Formula+ and change with every engine oil change.

[RedOregon]

I now use an extra 2 ounces (40 ounces on my 2014).

Thanks... mine is a 2015 Freewheeler (don't know if that makes a difference or not).

[gerald martin]

change your fluids according to the owners manual you got when you bought the free. If you add to much oil in the primary you will have trouble finding neutral and it will clunk more when putting it into first. The clutch on the Harley is a dry clutch not a wet clutch. if there is too much oil in the primary the plates get wet and stick together causing rough shifting and more. the oil in the primary is for chain lube only. Example if you change your primary to a belt drive you use the same clutch but do not need oil

[HDB0B]

change your fluids according to the owners manual you got when you bought the free. If you add to much oil in the primary you will have trouble finding neutral and it will clunk more when putting it into first. The clutch on the Harley is a dry clutch not a wet clutch. if there is too much oil in the primary the plates get wet and stick together causing rough shifting and more. the oil in the primary is for chain lube only. Example if you change your primary to a belt drive you use the same clutch but do not need oil

Manual says " Submerge and soak all friction plates in primary oil for 5 minutes before assembly" .... so I disagree with your assessment that it is a dry clutch. My 1983 FXDG was a twin belt drive with true dry clutch ... and the dry discs were considerably different than a wet clutch.

Bob

[sprinkman]

Maybe your clutch does not like oil but the compensator does. So what is a person to do.

[gerald martin]

Yes you have to soak new clutch plates on assembly but it is still a dry clutch read your manual